Turn Signal Switch Spring & Ball

[Hardway]

After some trouble shooting on my driver side brake light I determined the point of failure was coming from the turn signal switch.  Once on the bench I could tell someone had been here before as the tabs showed tool marks and were not flat against the board, this is usually not good.  After carefully opening it up I discovered everything was pretty clean but the usual ball bearing stalk contact had been replaced a glob of resin and solder that has been sanded in to shape, probably due to be lost the last time it was taken apart.  Should I try to just build up the solder or track down the ball bearing?  I think the bearing route is best but does anyone know the size?  Might be worth it to get a new spring too.

 

[SteveJ]

Fix it right.

[Hardway]

I plan to Steve and I responded to your PM.  Thanks!

[bvolken]

I used one of your images and added it to my photos of my re-build of the turn signal switch.  Datsun 240Z Turn Signal Switch Rebuild.  That little 'mushroom' at the end if the spring is supposed to be a small ball bearing!  In Southern California our turn signal switches last much longer - using blinkers on So Cal freeways is a sign of weakness!  

[Hardway]

My apologies that it has taken me several weeks to get back to my thread.  After some trial and error I determined the correct size ball bearing is 1/8 inch or 32mm.  I found a local bearing supplier on Ebay and picked up a 25 pack for $5 shipped to my door.

 

 

After getting the bubba solder glob off the spring I put some dielectric grease on it along with the switch mechanism itself.  When I was putting it back together I could tell the spring & ball was applying more pressure to the switch mechanism so confidence was high as I was reassembling it.  The picture below shows the ball on the spring but without the dielectric grease.

 

 

Once reinstalled my confidence faded as the problem still exists.  I did notice the action was smoother and more profound than before but the driver side brake light still does not light up even when jiggling the handle.  Looking over the wiring diagram about 20 more times I am now at a loss of what is causing this. 

 

Based on the wiring diagram, since the neutral position on the turn signal switch sends power to both brake lights when the brake pedal is depressed, it makes me believe the turn signal switch is fine.  The hazard lights work fine, each turn signal L&R works fine, with the brake depressed each turn signal flashes properly as well, just the driver side brake light does not stay on when the passenger side is flashing.

 

Any input or advice is greatly appreciated!

[SteveJ]

That's about what it would have cost for me to send one ball bearing to you.

 

Are you sure you don't have a grounding issue? Measure resistance to ground on each side. They should be about the same.

[Hardway]

Hi Steve, I didn't know you had them available other wise I would have sent you a $5 bill for one.  Oh well, i have 24 left now, not to mention 250 3.5mm ball bearings.

 

When you say measure the ground resistance on each side, can you be a little more specific?  Maybe I should open the switch back up and surgically inspect the brass switch mechanism/rocker?

[SteveJ]

There is a black wire going to each socket. Check the resistance from that wire to ground. It's always good to check the reading of your meter with the leads touching each other first. That gives you the resistance in your meter. Your reading on each socket should be pretty low.

[Hardway]

SUCCESS!!  Since all of the driver side lights would light up with every other function except the brake pedal I figured there was no ground issue. Since I could never figure out to test just the wiring I went back to the switch itself and opened it again.  After studying it a little longer I figured out the V or roof shaped terminal was the component controlling the power to the brake lights and would push the contact open when the turn signal was switched in that direction.  After some quick tests I determined the driver side contact was open by just a fraction of a millimeter.  I cleaned it with a emory board and bent the tab a little so it would provide a reliable connection.  Once reassembled and installed on the car my repair results were confirmed as I went through several cycles of the switch in all positions.  Thank you Steve for all your guidance and the information you have provided to the Z car community.

 

[SteveJ]

Happy to see the bright lights.

[hatepotholez]

On 1/22/2015 at 6:57 PM, Hardway said:

My apologies that it has taken me several weeks to get back to my thread.  After some trial and error I determined the correct size ball bearing is 1/8 inch or 32mm.  I found a local bearing supplier on Ebay and picked up a 25 pack for $5 shipped to my door.

 

 

 

exactly what I needed! Thanks so much