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Latest Entry
Making an inspection light lens
The inspection light is is NLA or very hard to find at the least, so I decided to try and make the lens. I had a light in good condition, but the lens was brittle and badly faded.
Since I had all the equipment for making a set of tail light lenses for my 280Z it was not too much work to try make the inspection light lens.
The Equipment I used:
1. Vacuum chamber and vacuum pump. This is needed to remove air from the silicone resin used for the mould and the clear resin used to make the lens. You can do it without using vacuum to de-gas, but the results are not as good.
2. Pressure chamber and compressor. The pressure chamber is used to pressurize the silicone mould when its curing and to pressurize the resin when you mould the lens.
If you don't do this you run the risk of getting a champagne bubble effect. This effect is caused by small air bubbles captured in the resin during stirring.
The silicone mould suffers a different problem. Uncompressed air bubbles in the mould will compress during the pressurizing phase of the lens making. When the bubbles are compressed the mould is then distorted and you get a strange looking lens. Trust me, I know from experience.:stupid:
3. Scale that can measure 1 gram for measuring resin, dye and hardener ratios. Very important for reproduction later.
Note: If you are using dye, I suggest mixing the dye in the resin before adding dye. Mix enough for your total production and keep it stored. Mix the quantity needed with the hardener. This way you maintain the colour through out the production run.
4. Injection needle or device to evenly inject the resin without trapping bubbles in the mould. This is probably the hardest part of making the lens.
I prefer to inject the resin instead of pouring it into the mould. I have found it easier to prevent bubbles this way. I fit a plastic tube to the seringe (plastic tube used for fish tank pumps) and make sure you use enough tube to hold the resin.
5. Releasing agent. Spray pack. This helps prevent the resin sticking to everything you can think of. Makes cleaning easy.
Pressurize the mould. Once the mould is poured it needs to be pressurized to remove any small bubbles. I use 2Barg for 8 hours and warm the chamber to 60°C. This helps cure the lens and helps give it a shiny finish.
Remove the mould, dismantle it and trim the excess of the lens.
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Latest Entry
SR20 Swap questions/help
Hello Datsun Nation! I’m new to this forum, and i have a couple of questions in mind. I have been wanting to buy a 240z, 260z, or 280z for the past few years, and now that I have saved a little bit of money; i am ready to start looking for one. I have seen quite a few Z's with SR20s and LS1s swaps, which has only persuaded me to do the same. However, i would love to get your guys opinion an expertise of installing an SR20. I would love to have an LS1, but quite frankly, i think it would be too much $. Furthermore, since i am not a mechanic, i will most like need to have a professional mechanic install the motor. With that said, i have an idea of how much an SR20 costs, but how much will it cost me to have it installed? Of course, this swap is not going to come immediately after my purchase, but i would eventually love to have a Z with an SR20. I look forward to reading everybody’s suggestions, opinions, and experiences when it comes to swapping/upgrading a motor in a Z, especially those who currently have an SR20 on their Z.
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Im Stuck between a rock and a hard place!!!!!
I decide to drive my 280z over 220 something miles(Panama city to Jacksonville FL). I wrongly assumed my car had oil and was ready to go. After 2 hours on the road, I noticed as i drove up steep roads my speed would go down. Then i notice i couldn't get past 70 going down. Then i was below the minimum speed limit which was 50. Lucky for me it was 9 or 10 at night. Then my car started to shutter. I pulled over and checked the fuel pump...... No leaks. The engine looks good. My first thought was overheating. So i sat on the highway for about 30 minutes. With temps in the 40's that sounded long enough. So i start it up, its normal so i drive and it shutters slightly. 4th gear is slow as dirt so i stick to 3rd. In 3rd gear i top out at 50 up and down hills. Then my car goes nuts it starts to backfire with the slightest pressure on the gas. So i get off the interstate under and quiet overpass. I see that the rear axle is slightly wet. Yet is see no fuel leaks. I look at the front and the oil pan looks like i drove through a puddle. I check the oil, there is none. My car now sounds like a tractor and shakes like Muhammad Ali's parkinson's. So i get it to a hotel parking lot and it can barely move. I put in 4 quarts of fluid but it wont even rev and it backfires. My dad first thought i threw a rod but he now thinks its a head gasket. Around the cover is oil and my oil looks like coca cola all over my block. I'm mechanically incline with aircraft since i work for the United States Air Force but this Japanese straight 6 looks like a nuclear physics equation. Does anyone have suggestions on how to fix this and get it road worthy to drive at least close to normal. This is my first vacation and right now its been ruined by my neglect and ignorance. Someone Please Help!!!!!
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Latest Entry
76 280z Fuel injection problems
I just recently bought a 76 280z. Im in the process of trying to get it running. The fuel pump is working fine and fuel is getting to the injectors. The injectors are brand new but there is no pulse to them. Most people woud say replace the ECU but there is also no power to the ECU. Ive checked my grounds and Im pretty sure their all good to go. Any ideas?
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I have 1and 1/2half 1980 280zx’s a 2+2 that is in pieces but runs good and a 80 2 setter w t-tops full car hasn’t turned over yet but haven’t tried2 hard 2 work on it the 2+2 engine purrs both 5 speeds Basically one car 2 engines got turbochargers lying round the shop id like 2 turbo charge one of em and keep one stock!! Can anyone help?
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heater core pressure test
Could anyone tell me how many pounds of air pressure to test a heater core with?
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Latest Entry
New 240z? True or BS
I recieved an email yesterday from Datsun Classifieds that said Happy New Year, and said to watch for news of a new 240z coming in 2014. Is there any truth to this, or is this just a bs rumor about a successor to the 240sx to get more action to the site? I'm a member of Nico also , and we've been talking about the need for a new affordable rwd sport coupe, and Andy Palmer has been ringing in and told us that something is in the works, but the administrator told me that their lineup up to 2016 is already filled. As a potential buyer of one, and speaking for all potential buyers, I think we deserve to know the truth, and people need to stop posting rumors.
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Latest Entry
5 Speed switch
Does anyone know if A 1986 3l 5 speed will bolt up to a 72 240????
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Latest Entry
Tachometer issue
After spending five years restoring my 71 240 Z again after being flooded in two feet of sea water, it is back on the road. I am still working out some issues, however the car is road worthy, at least for a while. Anyways, with the engine running, the tach is pegged over to 8K rpm.This is an intermitten issue as it sometimes self corrects. I checked the wire to the coil and to the ballest resistor, and they seem to be fine. Any ideas?
Thanks
Jim
71 240 Z.
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Latest Entry
my car wont start getting gas but no fire anywhere
everything is new...i just had the motor rebuilt and the guy was suppose to put all new parts ( battery,starter,coil,ect ) on it.when i picked it up it started fine then i had it hauled to a guy to fix the body and paint it.he was taking forever and working on other cars in the same building as my car and it wasnt covered up and had all the sanding and everything else all over it and all over my motor he said he lost my key so we pushed it out and i had it taken to my house.now it wont start there is no fire anywhere.my brother had a friend over here last week but i was gone but he said the guy went to the battery and hooked something up and it started and said it was the fuse box.i replaced the fuse box but still no fire...wont start i have spent almost all my money on this car...i dont know where to start now or how
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Latest Entry
Reproduced Window Stickers
All,
Anyone looking for window stickers mgood can make you just about any year you are looking for and he does a great job and looks just like the originals.
Just had one done for my 1973 and it was just what I was looking for and he will laminate if you want, very fast service too.
Thanks again Michael great service...
Mnilges
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Latest Entry
Engine stalling and hesitating while driving.
Hi everyone, I am a new member and was wondering can some help me out with my problem. I have a 1983 280ZX coupe with 239,000 miles. I have a moderate stage II cam and great compression on all cylinders. The problem I am having is that while driving the car during acceleration or normal level driving the car wants to stall and hesitate. I can push in the clutch, rev the engine and then it corrects it self until it happens again moments later. The car runs, cranks great, and idles just fine. I have changed out the fuel regulator, fuel filter, new fuel pump, new fuel dampner, had the air-flow meter re-built, new distributor cap, rotor button, wires, and spark plugs, yet none of those things I have done has helped. I am thinking that I might have to drop the gas tank due to possible rust that might be restricting the fuel pick-up on the fuel sending unit. Can anyone give me any help with this ???
Sincerely,
BlueSky224
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Latest Entry
Black Pearl Pin Stripe Kit
I would be interested. I am currently in the process of restoring my Black Pearl, and would buy at least one kit (possibly 2).
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Latest Entry
79 280zx engine problems.
Do you have a copy of the Factory Service Manual? If not' date=' PM me your email and I'll forward you a PDF copy.You'll be able to find all the routing for the vacuum lines, as well as electrical connections...[/quote']
traced out ecu, no shorts, everything is connected. I also went ahead and replaced all of the connectors on the sensors, and all the injectors. still no change.
Timing is set at 10 degrees btdc, also put iridium ix spark plugs in.
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Latest Entry
1973 240z keeps dieing out need help
I have a 1973 240z and it sometimes just dies out as Iam driving. I could go 30 miles and it runs great then dies or just 10 miles and dies, but it does start back up any know why?Thanks
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Latest Entry
Ansa Exhaust up in smoke?
Does anyone know the whereabouts of one Isaih Taylor? Sent him funds through PayPal months ago for the exshaust he supposedly was custom building. He did respond to a blog and left a contact number,however has previously doesn't respond to e-mails and phone numbers are non-working. No product Lost Funds Not Happy Can anyone Help?
Thank's Bill:ogre:
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1970 240z and new electric antenna.
Well my original antenna just isn't cutting it anymore. I recently purchased an Harada MX 3 antenna and now see that it wants a DPDT switch and not the original SPDT switch (which basically puts +12V to go up and then reverses +12 V to do down.) Any schematics out there on how to "fool" the wiring so that I can use my original up/down switch with the new MX3 antenna? Also, I want to be able to stop my antenna and not have it go all up or all down like the modern antenna do today.
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Latest Entry
1978 280z
Hey, I'm a new Z owner....I inherited this car and have no idea of its value???
It seems to be in great looking condition, but it hasn't been started for probably 15 years.
Can anyone give me an approximate value of this car?
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if anyone knows about an available 78 280Z spider harness only, could you please contact me.
Thank You
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Latest Entry
1973 240z 3 speed auto swap to 4 speed maxima
I wanted to do that too. It takes an 82 Maxima with the electronic over drive. I know that you have to change drive shafts as well. Do a search on this site, I think you will fi.nd the info you need.I've done this swap in my Nissan Cedric 1978 year model.
You'll need:
The 4 speed flexplate,
An overdrive rocker switch to lock out O/D
A modified crossmember.
A modified tailshaft (shorter and different spline than the original)
Some slight transmission tunnel adjustments (read, make larger at some points where the trans touches the tunnel)
These are things that i had to consider and do to make things work, you may have some of these issues with your S30 cars...dunno, never owned one myself.
A worthy modification IMO. Good luck mate, Cheers.
PS My 4 speed auto was from an R30 Skyline with an L24...it was a hydraulic box. Some later ones are electronic. That may need more work to set up the electrics but I don't know about this, as I said, mines hydraulic.
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Latest Entry
Electric Fuel pump
a couple of weeks ago I visited my local pick a part, and found a 240Z with a Holey electric fuel pump, unfortunately I opted not to get it cause the pump was rusted shot and the guy at the counter was asking for too much $ I thought. It had the stock electrical conectors and a red body.........not too sure that the one on my 260 is working and was wondering if anyone here would know what the specs are on this type of fuel pump.........looked at the Holey website and it does not list cars for the application, only the psi!!!! :tapemouth
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Latest Entry
240sx throttle body on 81' 280zx non turbo?
Hi Ive been looking for a cheap 60mm throttle body to put on my 280zx but haven't had such good luck, But then I heard a 240sx throttle body would work but needs minor modifications and possibly a spacer does any one have tips or steps on how to make the TB work perfectly?
-Chris
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Latest Entry
selling '72 240 z
Trying to figure the value and best way to sell. Any ideas would be appreciated. It has not been driven in some time and needs work. Original parts for the most part including original engine. Some rust on floor boards due to some exterior storage.
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Latest Entry
Looking for a 1978 280z Gas Tank
im looking for a 1978 280z gas tank new, used or a place I can send it for resotre.
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Latest Entry
New here, Please Help!
So I'm planning to buy a 73 240z, the problem is that the fuel isnt going to the carb making it unable to drive. Can anyone tell me what would I get myself into and what would I need to do to fix the probelm. THANKS Z fans!
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I'm still waiting on a hoist to free up before I can start bolting the new brake parts on my Z, but I did make the drill jig today. I started with a 12mm thick Mustang wheel spacer with a pilot. I then made a drawing to layout the holes needed. I transfered the drawing onto the spacer and I drilled three new 1/8" holes through the jig (spacer) so I'd have the correct 4x114.3mm holes. One hole is shared from the original 5 lug rotor. I then bolted the jig onto the Mustang rotor and simply dr -
Local radiator repair shops used to be plentiful but getting harder to find. Some of them just specialize in big truck-heavy equipment radiators. I will be needing to do the same for my project. I have heard good reports on gas tank RENU but there are none of those franchises in my area. Good luck, John-Lugoff, SC -
Decided to go with the 240sx conversion. Main reason is it’s strictly for the street and the parts were easy to source. What I didn’t realize was the 14” wheels won’t clear the caliper. Now looking for a set of 4 lug 15” rims and tires I can use during the build process. Can anyone recommend a temporary solution as far as make and model preferably a steel wheel that I can use until I’m ready to buy the wheel and tire combination at the end of the project? Thanks again for all the help out there. -
There are several reasons to use the S197 rear brakes. The rotors are larger diameter than the SVO rotors and they are vented. The calipers have larger pistons to give them more power. The big beef with the Maxima rears is that they don't offer as much stopping power as the stock drums. The S197 rears allow the addition of an adjustable proportioning valve. The Maxima rears cannot utilize an adjustable prop since the prop needs to be all the way open to get close to enough rear bias.
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By the_tool_man · Posted
Any particular reason to use S197 Mustang 5-lug brakes? The Fox body SVO Mustangs had rear discs with 4-lug. It's a popular swap to use SVO or T-bird Turbo Coupe rear brakes to retrofit discs to other Fox body Mustangs. These parts are still pretty common (probably available as a kit). Might be worth checking to see if they'll fit. -
I’m not sure yet. I’m waiting on a hoist to free up. Hopefully in the next few weeks.
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Will do. I'll take lots of pics and post everything up. I might try to fit the E brake either way and then ditch it if I go that way. I do like having an E brake but for a race car, weight is always the enemy. My car is a pig and it really needs to go on a massive diet. I think I could lose close to 200 lbs. between the bumpers, mastic, old wiring, and other useless components. I also plan to weigh each component in the front and back to finally put to rest the speculation on the weigh
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An instructional thread would be cool, when this happens
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