Blogs
Our community blogs
-
Latest Entry
weatherstrip and bushing kit 240z
it would have been nice if the seals were labeled.. I'm using all original bushingsWhat do you mean about labeled?
From where I may find thr original bushings?
- Read more...
-
- 0 comments
-
Latest Entry
6/70 240Z Ball Joint
The bottom tube of my 6/70 240Z Macpherson strut has a horizontal plate inside about 3/4†from the bottom opening. Recently purchased new ball joints with larger diameter stud and used later-model steering knuckles fit together well. My problem is that the new stud is about 1/4†longer than the original stud and won't fit inside the strut, interfering with the strut plate. I haven’t cut down the stud of the new ball joint yet because I feared it would be of hardened steel (difficult to cut) and the hole for the cotter pin/castellated nut would fall right in the middle of the cut. Alternatively, I wasn’t sure if drilling a whole through the strut plate would affect the structural integrity of the strut. Has anyone seen this problem and have a fix that’s worked? Thanks, Scott
- Read more...
-
- 0 comments
-
Latest Entry
Trying to ID these rims...
Can anyone ID these rims? Aftermarket or dealer option? What year possibly? Thx
-
-
Latest Entry
72 Z Master Cylinder quandary
Redoing my brake system for the first time. Got a rebuilt Master cylinder from Black Dragon & found that it:
1) had a two hole flange mount vs the original which had 4 holes
2) the collar which fits in the booster hole is ~1" deep vs 1/2" for the original, thus
3) Master Cyl will not bolt flush to the booster.
4) Dragon says that they have not had any customer issues with fit but are happy to take it back
Has anyone else observed this and do I have any options besides rebuilding or mounting the new MC w/o any spacer?
And what about the 4 vs 2 hole mounting flange?
Have had this Z since new.
-
Latest Entry
progess
Really had to dig for this one: Engine Pull?Ignore the rest of the thread... ZC.com' date=' enough said.[/quote']
Thanks for the link. I will probably take out the engine block and paint the car a different color then. The copper brown is okay but Id like something different.
- Read more...
-
- 0 comments
-
Latest Entry
horspower chips
1978 280z, do these chips really increase horsepower and milage on a car like this, 170 HP ?
- Read more...
-
- 0 comments
-
Latest Entry
Parts Car(s)
I've just scored 2 Z Cars for $600.
75 280 & 73 240
Both are junkers. Plan is to stripthe drive tran out of the 280.
get some body parts from the 240
:bulb:
Any suggestion
- Read more...
-
- 0 comments
-
Latest Entry
Powerless Zcar headed for Nat'ls in Orange, CA
Can anyone help with a suggestion?!!
Zcar looses power when climbing hill to mtn passes!
Almost seems like we've turned the key off!!!:bulb:
Thanks for response!!!
signed
Stuck in Yreka CA
-
Latest Entry
75 280z Need advice on what this could be
I bought the car recently and replaced the coil, plugs, wires, battery terminals. The car is getting spark and fuel. If i hold the key on the start position(where the starter is turning the motor) it will rev up and seem to run. But whenever i release the key and let it go to the run position, the car shuts off. I have no idea what it can be, mabye the ignition or something electrical. Anyones advice will be greatley appreciated.
-
Latest Entry
spray bar
any one no were to get a new spray bar for my datsun 260z thank's
-
Latest Entry
Z Resoration
http://www.flickr.com/photos/76440933@N08/sets/72157629637080227/
Montage of pics from my 2011 refresh on my '73
- Read more...
-
- 0 comments
-
- 2
entries - 0
comments - 1442
views
Recent Entries
Latest Entry
I need a support group in SFV! 1973 240z
Got the car, starting to tinker around but would be cool to know others who appreciate our challenges and fun with a 240Z. My cursing goes unheard as I stare and stare at what I should do. In San Fernando Valley. I love my Z's. Knowledge is a plus!
- Read more...
-
- 0 comments
- 2
-
Latest Entry
Grose jets aud9096gr
I am new to this site, If I violated some of your rules, you have my apologies.
I wanted to offer these hard to find parts to your members
as I used to work on cars in my earlier days so I know that these cars use these parts and they have been discontinued for may be 10 years.
I have this listing on ebay for these original parts, NEW in sealed original envelopes
ray
-
Latest Entry
I need an engine wiring harness
Whats up everyone, I'm the new kid on the block and I need an engine wiring harness for my late edition 1977 280Z without going broke to purchase one. Why are 1977 parts so hard to come by? Can anyone help? Darn squirels chewed up wires and corrosion set in on the connectors.
-
Latest Entry
fuel pump
So I have a possibly stupid question.... short and simple.. should I hear my fuel pump running while the key is simply in the run position while not running? Or does the pump only run while the car is running?
-
Latest Entry
Fuel Lines
Where is a good source for the rubber fuel line hoses for a 1972 240Z ? They appear to be 2 different sizes in the engine compartment. Also, I am looking for a source for a 240Z front tag. Any suggestions?
-
Latest Entry
Re-listing Z on Datsun Classifieds
I wonder if someone would be able to tell me why I am unable to put my car back on Datsun Classifieds.I had sold (thought I had but
turned out to be a scam)so I deleted the add and now I'm unable to re-post.If anyone could tell me what I need to do I would certainly appreciate it.
-
Latest Entry
Help! 83 turbo is sick...
Geeze... what a basket case this car has turned into. Its a 1983 turbo, federal, 5 speed. I got the car, and it had a stumble/hesitation/loss of power at light or part throttle pressure while in the 2-3k rpm range. Manifold vacuum at idle is 20, so no major leaks. Fuel pressure numbers are good. Cleaned the under hood and ECU connections. Did a tune up, ngk spark plugs, cap and rotor, pcv valve, fuel filter, new oxygen sensor. Swapped in a spare TPS. ECU rebuilt. Nothing, no change and the problem is still there. Try to cruise in 2-3k rpm range and you get loss of power/stumble and backfire in the exhaust. Press the gas it picks up and acts normal. Let of the gas, it acts normal. Light pressure on the throttle is where the problem is. Went to the 81 turbo supplement and did the test for the AFM at the ECU plug. Should be 240-400 ohm. I get 199, a fail. Instructions then say test AFM. I get 199 again, fail. Bought one from the classifieds. It failed too with 201. Tried it anyway. Problem still there. I need some help and advice. I dont know what to do. Went to a shop for help and thats how the ECU got rebuilt. They are dumbfounded and told me not to drive in that rpm range. (Wow, great solution) I called the other z shop in my area and they told me they dont like working on turbo cars. (I am alone.) I have nowhere else to turn. My skill level is low middle area. Please, I want to know what my dream car is like to drive. Any help would be greatly appreciated.- Read more...
-
- 0 comments
-
Latest Entry
i just joined this site
hello i have tuns and tuns of questions so please if any of yall can help me out with some of them that would be great thank u
- Read more...
-
- 0 comments
-
Latest Entry
Safety Belt Fitting
That's what I was looking for.Any chance of a few more picks' date=' different angles and the look from behind is possible?
Cheers,
Steve[/quote']
- Read more...
-
- 0 comments
-
Latest Entry
Brake Lights only come on when hazards are on.
New to me 72 240z. Replaced all the tail light bulbs and replaced brake light switch. The older brake light switch had different connectors than the new correct one. Old brake light switch had one yellow wire from under the dash and one of two green wires connected to it. Headlights, running lights and reverse lights all work. Turn signals do not work and have not since car was purchase a few months ago. Here is what I have going on as far as I can tell. When I connect both green wires to the new brake light switch the parking lights come on and stay on with me stepping on the brake. One of the connecters gets really hot. When I connect either one of the green wires and the yellow wire that comes from under the dash (looks like the hazard switch) to the new rake light switch the brake light only come on when the hazard switch is turned on. The turn signals also only work when the hazards are on.
I have searched a lot of threads but I have not found the help I need. Any help from all the collective great minds would be great. Thanks in advance.
-
Latest Entry
SFR Protecta oil additive Super Lubricant
I saw a link that was about an oil additive that prevents all wear of engine components. This oil additive lubricates the cylinder walls during cold startups. Never use synthetic oil again. This oil additive
is amazing. It beats prolong and a multitude of other additives.
I know a distributor that sells this product for $16.50 per bottle.
sfrcorp.com/demonstration
If you like what you see on this 11 minute demo, contact me @
titaniumspine
- Read more...
-
- 0 comments
-
Latest Entry
Oil changing tips
Most experts now saw that the old 3,000 mile guideline for oil changes is over-kill. However, none will debate that normal oil changes are still of probably the most essential ways to keep your automobile running for as long as possible. However, many people think they have to take it to an expert. In reality, it's a fairly easy job, and could be done a lot more cheaply at home. Article source: Changing oil is not rocket science
First step
You are likely to have to make sure you've the right tools for the task. This includes having a replacement oil filter, wheel chocks, rags and a tub to catch the old oil. You will most likely need about four to five quarts of the new oil for those who have a typical automobile. You will need eight if you have a V8 or pickup truck. Make sure you do not forget your tools either. You will need a jack, a socket wrench, an oil filter wrench and a funnel for putting the oil in the automobile.
Lift the car up
Let your vehicle run for about five minutes before getting to work. Warm oil is much more cooperative than cold oil. Park on a flat surface and jack up your automobile. Make sure to block the elevated end of the vehicle and chock the back wheels. Or, for those who have them, elevate the automobile with ramps.
Now pop the hood. Open the oil filler cap to obtain air flowing in the system.
Drain the oil
You will let out all the old oil now. The very best way to do this is to acquire under the automobile with your drain pan. You will find the drain plug by looking at your manual or by looking online for specific make and model. You will need to loosen the plug by using a socket wrench. Since the oil may be hot after having the car on, be careful not to acquire any on you, and make sure it all drains into the pan. The plug can get put back in after that with your fingers and then the wrench. Over tightening it can be an issue, so keep away from that.
Next step is the filter
One fact to remember before replacing the oil filter is that you need to put some brand new oil on the brand new gasket to make sure it will seal tightly. Don’t seal it too tight either; that could cause problems. First you need to look on the side of the motor, or someplace else dependent upon what your manual states, for the oil filter. By using the oil filter wrench, you can loosen the oil filter. Do this by turning it counterclockwise. You will remove the oil filter and put the brand new filter in. Screw in the brand new filter.
The very last thing to do
Next you will put in the funnel, poor the oil into the automobile and replace the filler cap. You will want to check the dipstick to see what the level is at. It will work best if you run the automobile for a minute after you are done to make sure everything looks good.
It isn’t so bad to do yourself, unless you don’t have any extra time on your hands. Before you let yourself be done, make sure you take the old oil someplace where they can get rid of it in an environmentally friendly way. Call around and you should be able to find someplace to take it for free
Sources
- Read more...
-
- 0 comments
-
Latest Entry
Any advice on lowering 1972 240z?
I have a 72 240z and I really want it to look nice and low. I know that Ground Control Coilovers work real nice, but they aren't in my budget. What are any alternatives to making my car as low as possible? What lowering springs/kit would look best and would getting smaller rims/wheels and tire profile reduce the ride height as well? I will be putting on ZG fender flares on and I want the wheels to look tucked in. I also plan on getting Konig Rewinds. So what do you think would make them look best on my car?
-
Who's Online (See full list)
-
Direct Club Sponsors
-
Blog Statistics
-
Total Blogs167
-
Total Entries251
-
-
Blog Entries
-
-
Blog Comments
-
I'm still waiting on a hoist to free up before I can start bolting the new brake parts on my Z, but I did make the drill jig today. I started with a 12mm thick Mustang wheel spacer with a pilot. I then made a drawing to layout the holes needed. I transfered the drawing onto the spacer and I drilled three new 1/8" holes through the jig (spacer) so I'd have the correct 4x114.3mm holes. One hole is shared from the original 5 lug rotor. I then bolted the jig onto the Mustang rotor and simply dr -
Local radiator repair shops used to be plentiful but getting harder to find. Some of them just specialize in big truck-heavy equipment radiators. I will be needing to do the same for my project. I have heard good reports on gas tank RENU but there are none of those franchises in my area. Good luck, John-Lugoff, SC -
Decided to go with the 240sx conversion. Main reason is it’s strictly for the street and the parts were easy to source. What I didn’t realize was the 14” wheels won’t clear the caliper. Now looking for a set of 4 lug 15” rims and tires I can use during the build process. Can anyone recommend a temporary solution as far as make and model preferably a steel wheel that I can use until I’m ready to buy the wheel and tire combination at the end of the project? Thanks again for all the help out there. -
There are several reasons to use the S197 rear brakes. The rotors are larger diameter than the SVO rotors and they are vented. The calipers have larger pistons to give them more power. The big beef with the Maxima rears is that they don't offer as much stopping power as the stock drums. The S197 rears allow the addition of an adjustable proportioning valve. The Maxima rears cannot utilize an adjustable prop since the prop needs to be all the way open to get close to enough rear bias.
-
By the_tool_man · Posted
Any particular reason to use S197 Mustang 5-lug brakes? The Fox body SVO Mustangs had rear discs with 4-lug. It's a popular swap to use SVO or T-bird Turbo Coupe rear brakes to retrofit discs to other Fox body Mustangs. These parts are still pretty common (probably available as a kit). Might be worth checking to see if they'll fit. -
I’m not sure yet. I’m waiting on a hoist to free up. Hopefully in the next few weeks.
-
-
Will do. I'll take lots of pics and post everything up. I might try to fit the E brake either way and then ditch it if I go that way. I do like having an E brake but for a race car, weight is always the enemy. My car is a pig and it really needs to go on a massive diet. I think I could lose close to 200 lbs. between the bumpers, mastic, old wiring, and other useless components. I also plan to weigh each component in the front and back to finally put to rest the speculation on the weigh
-
-
An instructional thread would be cool, when this happens
-
