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Having trouble starting my 1972 240z, just got it about 6 months ago and it had set for 8 years. Everything is original motor, transmission, differential, etc. Engine runs a little rough once it is warmed up. Drained the gas and refilled tank and included new fuel filter. New plugs, plug wires and air filter. The SU carburators round top could use some cleaning I guess, but not too experienced to do this myself. I have to turn the key to get the fuel pump working before I try to start it.
miker
  • miker
I have the new Champion three core alu. Rad to go into the car, along with the hoses. I think the old rad was done in fro 170,000 miles, flsushing worked for a while but began to heat up again. I used my Christmas money to get the rad and a brand new set of Z rotors for the front. They had been for sale here, but I got them on Ebay for half the price. I have new pads coming into the store today and will pick them up this evening. Now I need some decent weather. Need to take down the Christm
stevef1972z
Transmission or differential problem on a 1972 240z with 160000 miles on it, car has sat for 8 years, bought it 4 months ago, got it running, doing about 40 miles per hour and grinding noise starting coming from the rear passenger side differential area. Noise only when I try to excellerate but all the gears seem to work and shift ok. Before I start to get into it, just wanted to get an idea what to look for or what the problem could be. Have not added or changed any fluids in trans or differ
miker
  • miker
Well, I got the little rust issues fixed to my satisfaction. I also got the headliner problem solved. The headliner I bought had an issue where it separated from the foam that was attached to it, literally falling on my head. The foam was sorta greasy feeling, so I didn't want to re-use it. I searched all over the darn island for some foam. A fabric shop(one of two we have) directed me to a Nicaraguan guy who does upholstery work. I ended up paying the guy $180 to put up new foam and a new
ConchZ
  • ConchZ
This weekend I had the 5 floorboard sheetmetal pieces welded in to repair rust holes. Also the driver's side floor pan frame rail was straightened as it had been used by a floor jack. Unremoved rust makes the mig welder spit sparks. First I drew on the floor with a marks a lot around the holes using straight lines to make the cutting and fitting of the new pieces easier. After I cut along the straight lines using an angle grinder I made cardboard templates from the floor holes. I bought a p
Mikes Z car
My friend (mechanic) and I will be cleaning up my 240 from the engine bay out. The interior is impeccable, the body is straight, but bay is undesirable. My question is; what "secrets" might help with the overhaul of the engine and still maintain the car's value. We are also lookig for parts of an inexpensive nature. Help please. Chuck in AK
Chuckak
im working on a 73 240z, with a 79-80 280z engine....code l28e(that is the code on the cpu and block), it is also turbocharged.... the engine was just rebuilt and the car fully restored...im in the final process of completion, but cant get the engine to run.....has fuel and spark to the cylinders, but wont run.....has to be a timing issue.......an help would be greatly appreciated....thanks James
rallylife69
haven't been writing as much as I thought I would. Hurricane season snuck up on me. I ride hurricanes for a living, and there's been a lot of new stuff to keep up with. Anyway, the car came back from the body shop in late May. The paint job looks great. However, it may only be skin deep. They cut a lot of rust out, replacing it with new metal. However, they somehow missed some rust in a few places. The rust became apparent under the paint very quickly. I've got some rust bubbles on the
ConchZ
  • ConchZ
Hi all, I soldered both ends of all rivets and all wire crimps to fix fuse box overheating. Rivet and crimp location shown here: Other screenshots from drawing: Drawing: 240Z_fusebox_early_1970_final.skp.zip I pulled the fuse holders from the fuze box before soldering to prevent melting. Sanding or cleaning the fuse holders with copper cleaner and bending the fuse holder together to tighten the grip on the fuse also can help with overheating. You will need sketchup or sketchu
Mikes Z car
This mod has been in my car for 5 years, works great. Before/After modification (click for animation): I noticed low gas gauge readings. When I looked at the sending unit in my 240Z gas tank I saw that it has a worn curved track across the coil of resistance wire where the copper float arm connector slides across the coil. The sending unit I have must be original gauging from the large amount of wear on the wire. Since the rest of the unit looked good I figured I could significantly incre
Mikes Z car
pardon the question, but I haven't learned yet. Just got my 72 240, 120k. If it is cranked after having just been driven, you get lifter clatter. No clatter when first starting up cold. Since the car had been stored for a couple of years, I credited the clatter to needing an oil change. Just changed oil (10w 30) and it still has the lifter clatter when cranked hot. Don't know if I have solid or hydrolic lifters. How can I tell which and if solid, how often should they be adjusted? Thanks
barfife
Hi all, I am new to forum. Recently purchased a pristine 72 240Z "convertible" from an estate here in Atlanta. To my problem. Mushy brake pedal. Bleed brakes but not much improvement. Changed out master cylinder (bench bleed it before installing) but still have mushy pedal. Doesn't go to floor but close. Pump it twice and it stops fine. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
barfife
To restore or not to restore? That is the question. Well all reason be damned and full steam ahead. There can only be said that anyone that attempts to restore one of these precious gems is a fool in love. The Z becomes the other women when another women would probably be cheaper in the long run but just not an option at this time. I remember my first ride in the Z back in 1970. I was lucky to have a close friend my age who was born with the proverbial silver spoon in his arse. He got it
zman2003
One propane canister, two scrappers, two four inch grinding wheels, three 4 inch abrasive wheels for the grinder, two abrasive wheels for the drill, three drill grinding stones conical (for those hard to reach places), 10 cut off wheels for air cut off tool, one hammer for the air nibbler (great tool), 3 cans brake clean, 30 inch sheet metal press, 8 sheet metal screws to hold in place (removed and hole welded), one 4x4ft sheet of 18ga, 1 and 1/3 spool of welding wire, assorted hand tools, two b
stevef1972z
Finally finished the Floors and Frame Rails all the way up to the T/C Boxes that were completely gone. Lots and lots of work, but the car is much more solid now. Drove it for a week and all it did was run scary hot. Waterpump, thermostat, overflow kit, full flush, and we will see if it helps. Pulled all the AC off the car and that helps a little as well. Will see how it goes after the thermostat housing comes in the mail.
stevef1972z
I have a 1976 Datsun 280Z. I have several paint questions.. Ok, I recently sanded the car down and going to do some minor dent repairs, and then spray primer on the whole car, and then paint it. OK my question is whats the best primer out there for our cars?? Epoxy,Lacquer, Polyester, Urethane Primers ect???? Next, How many gallons will the car take??? What type of paint should I buy? here's two youtube vids i made in the past: Thanks Bro's Laters:beer:
juniorzep

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