Jump to content
Email logins are now active ×

  • entry
    1
  • comments
    0
  • views
    2,164

1971 240z L24 engine with triple dcoe 40 webers leaking coolant


robertsjeff

944 views

I have a 1971 240z that I have been restoring eight years the end of next month 8/13. I had a machine shop rebuild my engine which took the guy two plus years to do. I finally got it in the car and went with thriple Dcoe 40 triple carbs and the engine runs fine. I noticed a month or so after the engine was in the car that there was a small amount of coolant on the block where there are tabs on the block that stick out past the head. I pressurized the cooling system and dropped pressure so I pulled the head off took it to a different machine shop and had them pressure test and put a straight edge on the head and they told me it was good and I told them what happened and who did the motor. They told me the real hard jobs the sub out to the guy that did my engine. The guy that did my engine grew up in a machine shop that his dad owned and the guy is now around 50 and doing engines his entire adult life so he suposably knows what he is doing. I told him what was going on and he said I waited to long to start it and when I did I did not run it long enough. I don't remember his exact words but it's like the head gasket was a rear main seal or something. I alway thought the thing either leaks or does not and told the guy the thing was not a rear main seal or something that drys up. I then pulled the three webers, intake and what not then the head. The guy used a felpro gasket and it looked ok but I bought a new one and installed it, torqued the head to specs and started it again and it appeared fine but a week later I noticed a small amount of coolant along the edge of the block where it sticks out futher than the head. I checked the toque on the head bolts and they are to specs. I am getting pretty frustrated at this point I have spent almost 40k on the car so far and have had everything replaced with new and just when I think I can drive it the leak shows up. If the head was pressure tested and checked to insure it was straight and it still leaks it's got me stumped and a little mad. If anyone can give me some clue other than I waited to long to start the engine which is crap I would really appreciate it.

Thanks,

Jeff Roberts

0 Comments


Recommended Comments

There are no comments to display.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Blog Statistics

    • Total Blogs
      167
    • Total Entries
      251
  • Blog Comments

    • I'm still waiting on a hoist to free up before I can start bolting the new brake parts on my Z, but I did make the drill jig today.  I started with a 12mm thick Mustang wheel spacer with a pilot.  I then made a drawing to layout the holes needed.  I transfered the drawing onto the spacer and I drilled three new 1/8" holes through the jig (spacer) so I'd have the correct 4x114.3mm holes.  One hole is shared from the original 5 lug rotor.  I then bolted the jig onto the Mustang rotor and simply dr
    • Local radiator repair shops used to be plentiful but getting harder to find.  Some of them just specialize in big truck-heavy equipment radiators.  I will be needing to do the same for my project.  I have heard good reports on gas tank RENU but there are none of those franchises in my area.  Good luck, John-Lugoff, SC
    • Decided to go with the 240sx conversion. Main reason is it’s strictly for the street and the parts were easy to source. What I didn’t realize was the 14” wheels won’t clear the caliper. Now looking for a set of 4 lug 15” rims and tires I can use during the build process. Can anyone recommend a temporary solution as far as make and model preferably a steel wheel that I can use until I’m ready to buy the wheel and tire combination at the end of the project? Thanks again for all the help out there.
    • There are several reasons to use the S197 rear brakes.  The rotors are larger diameter than the SVO rotors and they are vented.  The calipers have larger pistons to give them more power.  The big beef with the Maxima rears is that they don't offer as much stopping power as the stock drums.  The S197 rears allow the addition of an adjustable proportioning valve.  The Maxima rears cannot utilize an adjustable prop since the prop needs to be all the way open to get close to enough rear bias. 
    • Any particular reason to use S197 Mustang 5-lug brakes?  The Fox body SVO Mustangs had rear discs with 4-lug.  It's a popular swap to use SVO or T-bird Turbo Coupe rear brakes to retrofit discs to other Fox body Mustangs.  These parts are still pretty common (probably available as a kit).  Might be worth checking to see if they'll fit.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.