Jump to content
We Need Your Help! ×

  • entries
    24
  • comments
    15
  • views
    8,775

Heater blower motor squeal stop


Mikes Z car

3,010 views

It is possible to lubricate both blower motor bearings without taking the motor out of the car to stop squeals or other noises related to motor bearings. I realized this after I had taken the motor out to lubricate the bearings. Many have opted to replace the existing blower motor and fan with a Honda civic heater fan. I like to fix things so I oiled the old motor because it was turning slowly and was squealing.

blogentry-18366-14217593890522_thumb.jpg

Oiling both bearings with the fan in place in the car can be done by taking the end cover plate off of the motor keeping an eye out for the 4 washers that may be on the motor shaft.

There were four on my 1/1970 car with one of the middle ones being a red fiber washer I imagine to reduce mechanical noise transmitted to the motor housing. The washers can stick to the end plate when it is removed and then drop off if they aren't noticed. The rear bearing is easy to lubricate with a light lithium grease or other suitable lubricant as it is a part of the end plate. The front bearing is easily accessed for lubrication with an old fashioned oiler that squirts oil or possibly by using WD-40 with its spray straw. WD-40 is explosive so if it is used a good airing out of the motor before reassembly might be a good idea. There are two magnets in the motor with a gap near the top of the motor between them of maybe 1/2 inch. An oil can with a long nozzle that squirts can be inserted in this gap to squirt oil up to the front bearing. WD 40 could also be used by inserting the straw that comes taped to the can in the same gap between the magnets that an oiler would use. The top gap would be preferred for the oiling as the oil can flow down to the bearing though the bottom gap can be used. When replacing the motor end cap be sure the tang gets aligned with the rubber grommet for the wires. If this isn't done the motor end cap can be installed 180 degrees out from the proper position resulting in it being slightly cocked over at an angle due to the tang sticking out which would not be good for bearing alignment with the motor shaft.

Rear bearing can be seen here:

blogentry-18366-14217593889717_thumb.jpg

Since I had already taken the motor out of the car to oil the front bearing I sat it on a workbench with the fan side down and poured motor oil into the gap between the magnets knowing it would flow down to the front bearing. I could not get the fan off and remember reading a thread where someone else ran into the same thing though your situation might be different.

2 Comments


Recommended Comments

Thanks, making the background white took some time with the paintbrush program but I had seen that done on graphics elsewhere on the net and noticed it can provide clarity depending on the material being presented.

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Blog Statistics

    • Total Blogs
      167
    • Total Entries
      251
  • Blog Comments

    • I'm still waiting on a hoist to free up before I can start bolting the new brake parts on my Z, but I did make the drill jig today.  I started with a 12mm thick Mustang wheel spacer with a pilot.  I then made a drawing to layout the holes needed.  I transfered the drawing onto the spacer and I drilled three new 1/8" holes through the jig (spacer) so I'd have the correct 4x114.3mm holes.  One hole is shared from the original 5 lug rotor.  I then bolted the jig onto the Mustang rotor and simply dr
    • Local radiator repair shops used to be plentiful but getting harder to find.  Some of them just specialize in big truck-heavy equipment radiators.  I will be needing to do the same for my project.  I have heard good reports on gas tank RENU but there are none of those franchises in my area.  Good luck, John-Lugoff, SC
    • Decided to go with the 240sx conversion. Main reason is it’s strictly for the street and the parts were easy to source. What I didn’t realize was the 14” wheels won’t clear the caliper. Now looking for a set of 4 lug 15” rims and tires I can use during the build process. Can anyone recommend a temporary solution as far as make and model preferably a steel wheel that I can use until I’m ready to buy the wheel and tire combination at the end of the project? Thanks again for all the help out there.
    • There are several reasons to use the S197 rear brakes.  The rotors are larger diameter than the SVO rotors and they are vented.  The calipers have larger pistons to give them more power.  The big beef with the Maxima rears is that they don't offer as much stopping power as the stock drums.  The S197 rears allow the addition of an adjustable proportioning valve.  The Maxima rears cannot utilize an adjustable prop since the prop needs to be all the way open to get close to enough rear bias. 
    • Any particular reason to use S197 Mustang 5-lug brakes?  The Fox body SVO Mustangs had rear discs with 4-lug.  It's a popular swap to use SVO or T-bird Turbo Coupe rear brakes to retrofit discs to other Fox body Mustangs.  These parts are still pretty common (probably available as a kit).  Might be worth checking to see if they'll fit.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.