I bought the car in 2009 and built it into a budget race car for 24 Hours of LeMons.  The car was in a barn or two for more than a decade before I bought it and it was a pretty well used up car at the time it was originally stored.  From what I was told, it was a Texas car that was moved to Indiana and stored for a while before being sold and again stored.  It is relatively solid other than damage done under the battery tray from acid and to both rear quarter panels at the bottoms where there is a bit of rust.  I pulled a trash bag full of mouse nesting, dead mice, and droppings from the quarters and the cowl.  The floors are pretty solid.  Over the years, the car has raced in LeMons, ChumpCar/ChampCar, and WRL and was updated many times to increase performance.  The DOM roll cage has NASCAR bars on the driver’s side, an X brace on the passenger side, and a dash bar. 

 

I had every intention to keep and continue racing the car, but I transferred from Michigan to Arizona and I have nowhere to keep or work on the car in AZ.  I was in the middle of upgrading the front and rear brakes right before the sudden move happened, so I was unable to complete the swap (see details).  It would make a great track day or endurance race car

Powertrain

·       2.8L F54 block with flat top pistons

·       Engine was rebuilt 20 race hours ago (two races) and was just stripped down for inspection

·       New oil pump and gaskets

·       P79 head shaved 0.050” with about 9.4:1 CR

·       ARP Head studs

·       Web Racing #91 grind camshaft, with Schneider springs and retainers

·       3-screw SU carbs with SM needles fed through stock airbox

·       3 into 2 into 1 header with SS flex pipe and MSA 2.5” exhaust

·       Brand new BHJ harmonic damper with Kameari bolt and washer – needs timing pointer

·       ’82 ZX electronic distributor with E12-80 ignition box

·       Lightened factory flywheel

·       ’82 ZX 5-speed transmission

·       R200 3.9 FDR differential

·       RT differential mount

·       Facet electric fuel pump feeding ½ gallon swirl tank with Carter electric fuel pump to feed engine

·       Stock ’75 280Z fuel tank with no sending unit for fuel gauge

·       No fuel rail and no fuel return in order to eliminate vapor lock

Chassis

·       Suspension lowered 1” with cut 260Z coils tuned jounce bumpers that are sized to be in contact at curb height.  Overall spring rate 200 lbs/in front and rear

·       25mm front and rear stabilizer bars

·       Poly bushings throughout with ½ poly, ½ rubber TC rod bushings

·       Brand new rear wheel bearings

·       Freshly packed front wheel bearings

·       Front crossmember re-drilled to move LCA pivots for improved bumpsteer

·       Long racing wheel studs and open lug nuts

·       Brand new Konig Rewind 15x7 wheels with used slicks to make it a roller

Brakes

·       New Toyota V6 4x4 front calipers

·       T3 rotor spacers

·       New 300ZX vented front rotors

·       Braided SS front hoses

·       NO FRONT BRAKE PADS – Recommend Porterfield R4-E pads for endurance racing

·       Front brake ducts

·       S197 Mustang GT500 rear calipers

·       S197 Mustang vented rear rotors re-drilled for 4x114.3 bolt circle

·       Silvermine caliper brackets

·       NO REAR JOUNCE HOSES – available from Silvermine

·       NEEDS WILWOOD 1” BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER due to new brake calipers

·       NEEDS ADJUSTABLE PROPORTIONING VALVE

·       Parking brake system has been removed completely

Body

·       There are a few minor dents from racing contact, but no major damage ever

·       Hood is propped up in rear to aid cooling while in the pits to prevent vapor lock

·       Factory hood hinges and torsion bars with single hood pin securing at rear

·       Hood has some damage at rear from previous owner – appears that release cable broke and they used a crowbar to open hood

·       Factory bumpers with no rubber ends left in place to stiffen body and provide some crash protection

·       No door glass

·       Lexan rear quarter windows and hatch window

·       Removable lawn edging front airdam – very stiff and comes off for trailering

·       Plywood rear spoiler

·       Paint looks good from 50 feet, but it’s a race car, so looks crappy up close

·       Windshield is cracked and has been since I got it

·       Vinyl graphics look good

·       H4 headlights on relays are very bright.  Car is set up for hood mounted aux lights for night racing

·       Has headlight covers that have a few stress cracks

Interior

·       Older Momo racing seat with adjustable slider and back brace

·       Catalytic converter hump was cut out of the tunnel and seat was lowered to maximize headroom

·       Crow 6 point camlock harness with ~2015 build date

·       IO Port window net with ~2013 build date

·       Gauges need to be completely replaced – I planned to install an Autosport Labs Race Capture Pro data acquisition system that replaces all gauges with two Android tablets but I never got to it due to the move

Electrical

·       Everything works, but it is a rats nest inside the car - The entire car should be rewired to clean it up and make it more robust

·       Battery hold down fits an Optima Red Top or Yellow Top – No battery installed

·       HVAC in place only for defrost with a single toggle switch for full hot and high fan speed

·       Kill switch located inside car

·       Push button start

The Good

·       The car starts right up with the manual choke and runs great

·       I have not dyno’d the car, but it should make around 170 RWHP

·       Handling is a joy!  It’s very easy to drive at the limit and is neutral.  Car was last raced on 195/60R14 tires and is now set up for 225/45R15 tires and could go a full 24 hour race on a set with very even wear

·       Car will go 2 full hours on a tank of 93 pump gas in endurance racing conditions

·       Car is quiet enough to meet any race track sound requirements

·       Once completed, brake upgrade will be fade proof and powerful under any race conditions

·       Car weighs around 2600 lbs and can easily be lightened by several hundred lbs.

The Bad

·       No title – Bill of Sale only

·       This is a race car and even if titled, it has no turn signals, no horn, a racing harness and a full roll cage – It must be trailered to the track

·       Needs brake upgrade to be completed – there currently no working brakes!

·       Should be completely rewired which is simple on a carbed track car

·       No dash due to cage and gauge mounts are ugly and heavy – Controls and gauges should be reworked

·       Needs new/updated safety equipment (belts, net and fire system) if raced in CCWS, WRL, AER, etc.

I have a lot of photos of the car and I will try to upload more here, but if you are interested, ask and I will be happy to send more.

The car is located 45 minutes west of Detroit, Michigan and can be seen via appointment at the property where it is being stored.  The car must be sold quickly.  I am losing my storage and I am 2000 miles away with no way to move the car to a new location.  I am open to offers.