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When you unplugged the vacuum reference hose you raised the fuel pressure in the fuel rail, engine running, making the fuel-air ratio richer at low to mid-range throttle opening. You would feel that effect if you were running lean before. At open throttle you'll get the same effect as removing the hose since there will be very little vacuum in the intake system so you shouldn't feel any difference, hose on or off. You might try the fuel tweak modification and see what happens. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html

Aftermarket - this one

What pump are you using? Factory or aftermarket?

Turned out decent, really struggling with trash/ debris/ maybe sand in my shop. Need to partition off a clean area to spray….. 2446 will never win any awards, but she got that deep green look glowing strong!!!

Just to be sure I'm not barking up the wrong tree with blockages/restrictions - the pump wouldn't be the issue right? Since it's an electric pump it will either work or it won't and not become weaker, correct? The pump is probably a year old

They show up on the parts diagrams. I have never seen a car with them on it. I'm unsure if the ever really existed, at least in North America

I can't find anything in my disassembly notes or pictures about a rubber piece between the fender and headlight buckets (circled in red below). Was my car just missing it on both sides, or did these not get added until a specific date?

And by "something weird", I mean, maybe the annoyingly complicated nugget of springs and levers and stops etc. has an issue:

I measured the nozzle drop on a set of four screw carbs here and (with the nozzle nuts turned all the way up "home") I get about about 1/2 inch. If you're really getting 1" drop on your troublesome nozzles, then there's something weird going on.

Done!! Let's hope it doesn't come to that, but if it does, I'm all over it!!

Hmmm... 38psi with the vacuum line pulled off the FPR sounds good. And 30 psi with that line connected is OK too. Are you able to see the fuel pressure gauge WHILE you are driving? I'm curious to see if the 38 drops significantly when there is more than just a "light idle" load on the engine. In other words... Your fuel system may be able to deliver enough fuel AT IDLE and still maintain 38 psi, but the trick is that it takes a really small amount of fuel to maintain idle. I'm thinking that maybe the system can idle fine at 38, but as soon as the fuel delivery requirements get higher (like when you are driving around), the system doesn't have enough compliance to maintain proper pressure under higher demand conditions. And that's a typical symptom of a restriction somewhere. Fuel filter, clogged check valve, something like that.

https://www.motortrend.com/features/nissans-old-vs-new-240z-720-patrol-heritage-datsun/

Ok so here's some more information from tonight's festivities: - I think the original issue wasn't the height of the hose, it was that I had it zip tied too tight (kinked like @Captain Obvious suspected). I turned the car on and had someone watch the fuel pressure gauge in the engine while I wiggled the hoses from all angles/pulled it as high up under the car as I could, and it didn't change - which is why I think it was kinked - With the car turned on we're still sitting at ~30 psi at idle with the vacuum hose connected to the fpr and 38psi with it unplugged, idling, with my finger over the hose to prevent the vacuum leak. I just took the car around the block and it is incredibly sluggish (acceleration sits in the 15-17 range on the air fuel ratio gauge). I pulled over and unplugged the fpr vacuum hose and with 38 psi, the car is a rocket again - so the gauge fuel pressure gauge is right there definitely is a fuel pressure issue here...

It's yours!!

I believe the idea of bending the bar (#1) originated from Ztherapy IINM

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I did the leather from Interior Innovations back in 2018 and would do it again. I also did the matching leather e-brake and shifter boots.

When my nozzles started sticking in the down position, I removed the carbs and found the #1 bar warped. The ends were not parallel to their attachment points. A slight twist with two pairs of pliers on the bar realigned the ends of bar #1 with their mounting points. That ended the problem with the nozzles.

I have to make some calls to see if all the material is not faced dyed. my driver seat when getting in the bottom corner close to the door gets scratched. I believe the synthetic material it faced dyed. I need to use touch up paint after a while for it to look good. the foam is getting really old, so I am going rebuild the seats and would like to use a material the is colored all the way through. thanks Carl, for the post about rebuilding the seats ALOT OF INFO!

There is no real adjustability on the max amount that the nozzle drops. Sure, you could bend the #1 lever to potentially change it, but it will put things out of alignment and potentially bind. Maybe someone tweaked yours at some time in the past? You should be able rotate the choke actuation lever all the way to it's stop, and when you release it, the springs involved should be enough to pull the nozzle back up. It should come back up and "snap" against the bottom of the holder nut. I will measure the amount of nozzle drop on a carb here and we can compare notes.

Haha!! So we're gonna be rebuilding your engine in the parking lot at zcon!! I call dibs on working on the timing chain and stuff!

Someone with a microfiche system can find out the dates.. (I do have the microfiches but not a functioning viewer.. unfortunately)

Nah, the only things I replaced were my 20 year old hoses