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Take good care of that head if it’s really a MN head . Like said - a compression test would show pretty stout numbers with any combo involving a Maxima head . CC’s are about 39 which should show 180-200 psi compression check . I’ll also say the Maxima head would be about better than anything you could pit on that engine . But it also would be a challenge for stock EFI to keep up with the compression - not even talking ignition timing issues also .

I wanted to plot the pdf larger but I couldn't get it to let me select a different paper size. Is there a way on your end to make it where I could plot it as a "C" size drawing?

Here is one other hidden wiring set in the dash: terminals for a fog light switch (the blue tape is the Easter Egg). I didn't prowl thru the Captain's diagram to see if they are in there.

Excellent! Thank You! (I also kinda wonder why they sometimes include "hidden" wiring - I should say unused - in schematics and sometimes leave it out. Case in point: They never show the unused 2-pin connector or wiring (B/W & G) under the center console on the 240Z models that is there for an electric fuel pump leading to the wiring and connector bundled with the fuel tank sensor wiring. SO, many people are never aware of it's existence. But they'll usually show the unused Fog Lamp wiring... I know a lot of people who wanted or needed to add an electric fuel pump - especially with the mechanical fuel pump debacle we went through - and had no idea the wiring was already there. I've added a few impact sensors and e-pumps to 240Z's in Phoenix.)

I've used 1/8" - 3/4". Mostly 3/8". Whatever you need to fit the wire bundle you're sheathing. I like to keep it tight as possible.

Gotcha - thanks for the picture, I will keep the clamps at the top. A friend is bringing over the socket I don't have to tighten these and then we should be good to go - I'll check the carbon canister after that for sure. Regarding the sniffer, I pull the oil pressure switch plug and set the key to 'on' to pressurize the system. I then turn on the sniffer and move its bendable head to each spot with a rubber hose and clamp. It beeps and shows the concentration on the screen when it notices fuel vapors. The device is pretty impressive.

Thanks again for the help guys. I added the speaker wires and here's the latest. I've been trying to stay very close to the original diagram style and wording, but I agree with the use of the designation "cooler". I changed it to "blower motor". I have no outstanding known issues at this point. If anyone turns up a problem somewhere, let me know. Lower resolution thumbnail pic good enough to get the idea, but if you want a higher quality version, download the pdf. <V5.0> _obvious 240Z Wiring Diagram 5.0.pdf

The FSM has a drawing, below. It's not clear how you're using this vapor detector device. I think that the most common source of gasoline smell, that's hidden, is the bottom of the charcoal canister. The carbon/charcoal gets clogged over time and does not absorb all fo the vapor. The bottom of the canister is open to the atmosphere. That's where I'd be looking, after I tightened all fo the clamps.

Fuel filter bracket search turns into 5 brackets , morphs into seats

@Zed Head Where do you put your fuel injector's hose clamps on the fuel rail? Do you keep them closer to the injector near the bump on the rail's piping or at the top? I have my clamp on the top - since its further away from the bump, could it not be sealing vapors well enough?

So 1/4 or 1/2 inch diameter? I guess 1/4 is the way to go

I did not only buy plenty of stuff for the project recently, but also spent some time tinkering around on the actual project itself. The first task was to install the S30.World fuel tank together with the recently acquired S30.world fuel tank installation kit. To prevent the shiny tank from scratches, I wrapped everything in plastic. And after finding the right technique to hold up the tank while installing the mounting straps, i finally had it installed. Fitment is just like the original one, and it looks great together with the NISMO / Competition electric fuel pump and bracket: Next on the list was to install the fuel filler neck protection plate in the RH rear fender arch. The fitment of this reproduction item was somehow not right, so I had to bend it a bit, first. After a bit of trial and error and drilling some holes, I'm quite happy with the results (As usual, the used bolts are temporary for mock-up only!): Another test fitment was required for the front under panel / splash guard thing: I have to admit it fits really well. The only problem i discovered is that on the replacement NOS frame rails on the RH side, the threads / holes to install the under panels are missing. Most probably because they came from a later 260Z or something. Overall, I'm happy with the progress and my to-do list gets smaller with every day. Unfortunately, with every bit of work I carry out, I find one or two small problems that need to be corrected. So while my list gets smaller, the body shop list gets bigger. Nothing that can't be fixed, and I think I have a good plan for the next project. Recently, i also bought a collection of original (mostly european) Datsun / Nissan Colour and fabric sample charts. I scanned them all in High-resolution and you can download them all for free, here. they include all random type of Datsun / Nissan cars from the 70ies and 80ies, but also the Z's and ZX's.

The only real difference is the weave. Some is tight and thick, some is a much looser weave and it's really just personal choice. I've used both but I prefer the tighter weave - more opaque looks more substantial but it is no easier to keep clean. Keep in mind that I daily drive my car in Phoenix Arizona so the dust and grime probably accumulates a bit quicker for me than many other Z drivers. Years ago when I first looked for sheath it was "Tech Flex (F6 or something like that)" - no idea if that's still available. Now I'm building a new engine harness for my L28ET and I'm using RayChem.

Ive seen several on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D5GZQYXP/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1DGO48EAHVET1&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C4LDSBF4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1D2WOR1KGBRUG&th=1 Which one one would you recommend?

got me some shiny new tools, looking forward to some warmer weather!

Looks close to "Scott Hyatt's" 260Z http://www.gladiatorroadracing.ca/group-8-historic-gtu.html

These don't have a "reverse adjuster" like some American cars did. The adjustment is completely either manual or through the action of the parking brake. The parking brake will only move the "star" slightly so if it's way out of adjustment you'll be pulling the hand brake forever. And that's IF you have all that properly installed in the rear brakes. I've seen some that the arm doesn't properly engage with the adjuster. Or, one or the other are worn so that the arm won't actually turn the adjuster wheel. I get the rears close by manually adjusting then finish up with the parking brake.

I've used the braided split loom in my engine bay. No problems with heat, but it does collect dirt and grime over time and can't simply be wiped off - much like the corrugated plastic you have now. It looks a lot better though...

Agree, and the R/L is illumination and a male bullet on the radio makes sense as the harness side would have voltage with gauge lighting on. So in the FSM diagram above they show those four wires in a single connector. I'm going to check the 240Z in my driveway. edit: nope. The Z I have is a friends 11/72 that I'm doing some electrical work on. The harness radio connector(s) apparently destroyed by radio installers in the past. It has the 3-pin at the harness for power and speaker - only the power is attached as he now has STEREO! So that's no help. Not a shock as most radio installations have been butchered over the years to get better tunes... Interesting that the 1970 FSM Body Electrical shows a 4-pin connector for the radio and every other 240Z FSM shows the 3-pin pictured above and a separate lighting connector - including the 1971 Supplement.

FWIW - Here are pics of the early AM radio, one I sold a few years ago. They might help answer some of the connector and terminal questions. Note that the speaker comnector is for three wires but has only two installed.

The weird thing is this was the hose and clamps used on my remanufactured Bosch injectors: It also applied to my other hoses using the same style of clamps, I don't get it

In the recent days, I picked up various items again, which I bought recently for my project: The elephant in the room is obviously the all original KM1520-ZC AM / FM Radio. It's a bit rough around the edges. Just perfect for a restoration. In case you don't know. Restoring old audio systems, including Car HIFI, from that era was my profession for many years, so this one will be fun for me to get nostalgic. It's said to be in working condition and complete. Let's see. Then i also got an original June 1972 Datsun Switzerland dealer price list. I had it scanned, and you can download it HERE among many other price-lists from that era. One delivery also included an original NOS 240Z rear drum brake cylinder. I had several from the other side, but this side was somehow always missing. Now I have a complete pair: I also aqcuired a bunch of Japanese "Car graphic" Magazines from the early 70ies, when the Z was new, and those issues include a few nice details of the Fairlady Z and Z432 development. On the right side, you also see a Nismo accessory catalogue and sticker from the 10th anniversary, which I will put next to my 10th anniversary steering wheel and shift knob: And then i got something cool, which is a bunch of photos and two CD's full of Photos from a nice bloke. Some photos will be very cool, and I'll post the story about a certain barn full of S30's from Switzerland in the coming weeks on this blog. If you read the story about Aerotechnik. A Swiss Datsun parts dealer that quickly became one of the countries biggest wholeseller for wheels and exhausts, you might remember this photo. Now i even haven an original of that Schaffhausen-plated (SH) red 300ZX. Read more about that story here I have some more cool deliveries pending, so stay tuned for some nice stories and parts here. and oh, i also had some progress on the Car itself, which i'm going to show you soon! Today I was finally able to close another big gap in my documentation archive. The Nissan L-Drive and R-Drive Parts catalogues: There are various versions of the Parts catalogues, the L-Drive (Publication No. C-0010L) is for the Left-Hand-drive cars and the R-Drive (Publication No. C-0010R) is for RHD cars. Totally, I have no three versions. From what I understand, the dealerships once got the original Binder in the early years and then constantly got updated sheets to add or replace. That's why you can see varying years and models on the back of the binder. The Left one and center one are new, the R-Drive on the right is one I bought from the UK a while ago. I have seen other versions, which are probably even rarer, but for me, this will do. So what is it exactly? Well, it's basically the early print versions of the parts catalogue, which were later also available as Microfiches, in smaller book form, or as digital version on Nissan FAST / E-FAST disks, etc. Today these are all available online. But in my opinion this is still the best readable version due to its size and quality of print, and the most detailed version of them all. The cool thing is that I now have one of the versions with the original seat leather samples on it, which only was in specific versions of the manual, and is something quite cool, if you ask me. So, again another year-long search for something very specific comes to an end, and I'm happy to close that task too. These books will again help me to clarify some details and to do my research on the various topics. Also, the pages are easier to scan to show on different topics here on the website, since the pages can be removed individually from the binder. So sooner or later, all you readers will benefit from this, too :-). Now on to search the even rarer stuff...

What type of hose are you using? I had found that the Gates hose I got at O'Reilly's loosened up and need the clamps retightened. Surprising since the hose is advertised for it's vapor control. I think that the material "creeps" under pressure. Probably needs a constant tension clamp to work best. https://www.gates.com/us/en/fluid-power/engine-hose/fuel-line-hose.p.4219-000000-000003.html

Update: So that one I linked definitely worked (on the 'high' sensitivity setting) and taught me that my gas smell is actually coming from the engine bay, not the fuel pump area. It seems that ALL of my clamps weren't keeping the fuel vapor in the rail when pressurized. I cranked down all but injector #3's hose clamp almost to the max travel (because the injector #3's clamp screw sits right below the fuel pressure regulator so I'm going to have to think on how to get a screwdriver in there to tighten that one). It seemed to help somewhat - I don't understand how these clamps aren't holding even this tight - the injectors and hoses are all maybe a year or two old and using the proper injector clamps (not gates belt clamps). It also seems like all of the clamps slowly un-tightened themselves over the past few years because there's no way I had them this loose when I installed everything...