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Thank you, gentlemen, for the help. It was the switch, I disassembled it in place, one of the plastic pin and spring pieces had come out of its hole and was floating in the switch. I cleaned the contacts, reassembled and now have park lights and tail lights!

Go to the Nissan museum wherever it is. All I have seen were the pictures and it's fantastic. Kats is a pilot so he's probably pretty busy but maybe...? Have fun and try not to spend all your money in the dirty panties vending machines. That's what I'd do.

Unfortunately that appears to be the case.

Just replaced the pertronix ignition coil with a brand new one and new 1.5 resistor coil as the old one was not measuring any resistance at all. Just left it idling for 15 mins in the parkway. Lets see if the coil gets hot during traffic jams. VID-20250302-WA0021.mp4

There is a great installation video on the S30world website. They don't use any weather strip glue. He does show using super glue for the butt joint at the middle of the lower section.

I think its easier to put the glass in first

He has mentioned o-ring wont work and that correct flat washer will and he will pressure test it as well before shipping. Keeping my fingers crossed.

The widths vary between brands. Just make sure that there is no groove worn on to the sealing area of the crankshaft. The seal does not have to be worn out to cause a wear groove. I just did a repair sleeve on a rear end pinion shaft. Big wide wear groove, not the typical thin seal spring wear. Oops, forgot a link - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1977,280z,2.8l+l6,1209248,engine,crankshaft+seal,5604

Anyone tried both the KYB and Koni ones? I'm on KYB currently.

1974

I tried to find the screws I bought but I can't locate them and I can't find the Amazon order. I'm sure I ordered them from Amazon. Stainless screws. Some of them are surprisingly long. I don't know size or pitch

The one thing I don't understand is why people want to take an opportunity to soapbox about politics. Life is full of ups and downs and not all people agree with each other. No matter how you look at it, or what you believe, there's no reason to create animosity and division with your fellow human. I am a firm believer in free speech but our guidelines state that all posts need to stay on topic for our group. This post would be better served on a general social media site, but it does not belong here. I will lock this thread. Thank you!

I spent some hours in the Garage again and got some tasks checked off my to-do list. First, I started to test-fit the taillight panels: So I was able to get the installation holes back into the replacement rear panel: Where the plastic rivets go. Luckily, I have a few for reference: It took me a while, but in the end, all worked out. I have to say, after studying a bunch of original, unrestored cars, those Panels are quite poorly aligned from the factory, and with a few adjustments to the rear hatch lock panel, they could have made this much more appealing, but at the end I wanted to have it looking OEM. After that, I installed the taillights too, just to see if it all lines up. Which, luckily, it does. Note that the panels are not properly locked into the brackets here, why it all looks "wobbly": While at it, I decided to also install the hatch locking mechanism, so that the hatch has the correct height. I own a set of NOS locks. But decided for testing the old ones will do. As usual, bolts / nuts are only temporary and might be the wrong ones, so please ignore those. The lower one was a bit tricky. I realized the space in the aftermarket panel is not big enough for the lock to fit through it. After a bit of hammering, though, it fits now. Still needs a bit of adjustment, though, as it seems the punches are not lined up properly with the bracket: While working in that area, I realized that this corner is also not straight. So I got that straight too. (Picture shows "before" state): In the end, I'm quite satisfied with how things fit. It's still all just temporary and needs a bit of adjustment and proper fitting here and there, but for the first mock-up, things at least fit, without discovering major issues: You might have noticed that the "chrome" (I think it's stainless steel?) taillight panel trim is missing. I had them removed before paint strip dipping, because the previous owner painted them black. Luckily, the paint could easily be chipped off with a carpet knife: And then I gave it a bit of polish with my "Metarex" metal polish wool: It still needs a bit of work here and there, but the first results after a few minutes of manual work are promising: Then I had to test-fit the door steps (or whatever you call those) back, as the replacement panels came without the holes to install them: So I had them test-fitted: And then got the holes and screws back in. Note it might look crooked, but that's just the reflection of the protective plastic i left there to avoid scratches on the new panels: I hope I can keep up the current pace. It's really nice to see things coming back together, even if it's only temporary.

Cybersanford...

I have sealed my cabinet well but I still have a number of leaks too. I used strip LEDs in my cabinet too. The waterproof type inside the rubber rib. I buy cheap glass from Home depot for the view area. I think glass might be cheaper than plexi these days. I got some tee handle screws in for making the glass quick change. My next upgrades will probably be the shields that help prevent the media collecting on the ledges inside the cabinet

View Advert Retired in a Florida Garage | 1980 Datsun 280ZX Grand Luxury | 2dr 2+2 Coupe | 6-cyl. 2753cc/132hp FI | 102962 Original Miles This car was the prized possession of my late father-in-law and has been garaged in Florida since 2001. She runs great and needs someone to provide a little TLC. Being sold as-is (no warranty). Buyer to pay International/Domestic transportation if unable to pick up in Florida onsite. ------------------------------------------- The Datsun 240Z was a game changer when it debuted in late 1969. Reliable, fast, and a bargain, the Z instantly redefined what a sports car could be. For British and Italian competition, it was like the comet that killed the dinosaurs. Like anything else, however, all good things must come to an end and by the late 1970s the original concept was beginning to run its course. The 280Z was essentially a 240Z with big impact bumpers and fuel injection. Datsun needed something newer and flashier. Enter the Datsun 280ZX in 1978. Sports car purists who watched the Brock Racing Enterprises (BRE) Datsun's clean up were horrified. The ZX was a GT for the disco era with two-tone paints, T-tops, velour seats, and fancy stereos. It was certainly softer and less sporting, but it filled a niche well and like the 260Z and 280Z was available in a 2+2 body, which the ZX seemed to fill out better than the previous cars. Ironically, the 280ZX was raced successfully too in some cases by actor Paul Newman. With added weight, performance predictably suffered. In order to deal with this, Nissan offered a turbocharger option starting in 1981 that raised power output from about 140 hp to 180 hp. Brakes and suspension were subsequently improved in 1982 making the last two model years of the turbo the most performance oriented of the 280ZX. As of yet, collectors have had trouble seeing beyond the 240Z in terms of collectability, which has made the barrier to ownership low. Very nice examples of the 280ZX still turn up for sale (often at big collector car auctions) for very affordable prices. The last two years of the turbo in particular can be terrific cars for the money. Offered by: Naples_FL_280ZX Date 02/27/2025 Price $20,000 Category Cars for Sale Year 1980 Model ZX Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) HGS130145366  

More items for the platers….seatbelts, lower control arms….headlight buckets….

Well, you wouldn't have to worry about being blinded by oncoming headlights. The gauge lights will have already blinded you. Maybe not. The parking light fuse would probably blow first.

Awesome. Let's hope this is the end of it and it's smooth sailing from this point forward!! Good work!

Now you tell me!

I recently converted my Caswell plating setup to a rolling workbench. I'll get more use out of this for the space it takes up in my shop. And I've found a place in town to use for plating instead of trying to do it myself. I've found that all things need to be near perfect for good results with Caswell, and it's a time burner. But it was fun while it lasted.

Thanks for finding that in the wiring diagram! Car has always been a manual tranny. Yes, the wire is green. I guess it was a good thing that my car is a MT so that wire was available for me to repurpose! With that wire being in the engine bay I guess the relay to the K.D. solenoid (if present) would be in the engine bay?

View Advert 14" rims - Free to good home I have a set of 14" rims that came with a parts car a few years ago. They will clean up well. The paint is in new condition and the alloy needs minor polishing. They look much better in person than they do in the photos. I doubt you would be able to use the center caps on the front of a 240 due to the size of the center hubs on the car. Would prefer pickup only. The price is $0. I am located in Northern Indiana just west of Fort Wayne. Thanks Gary Offered by: 87mj Date 02/22/2025 Price Category Parts for Sale  

That’s what I have, they are Kmart ones NIB I got a few years ago.

Thanks Alan, just for fun I tried using the translate feature on google lens. It worked well.