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Good thought. I do. I will have a look at it to compare.

Oops, missed that question. Yes, when I pull the choke lever a bit, the AFRs change - the numbers come down.

https://www.worldwayelec.com/pro/cs-elec/hd44001/4250271 https://www.1sourcecomponents.com/availability/HITACHI--HD44001.htm https://fr.excesschip.com/product/details/hd44001 https://de.excesschip.com/product/details/hd44001 These are the only things I was able to find online for the 44001. Not affiliated with any of these, so click on them at your own risk. The top place shows they have some with a minimum order of 100, but not sure how accurate that is. I couldnt find a datasheet on these, so not sure if they would need to be programmed or not.

ZCarDepot has been good at sourcing parts. He shows a pickup coil for a ZX. The other parts are hard to find though. I've seen the bushings for sale in the past but not recently. Might be simpler to put in a 240Z distributor with a Pertronix conversion. Or a 280Z with an HEI module. Z Car Depot IncSearch: 38 results found for "distributor"New, used, and OEM repair and replacement parts for Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX, and 510.

I found an old thread with several of us iin it. I feel kind of dickish reading my old comments. Hopefully I've mellowed. The 6801 has come up before, I'd forgotten about it. I also pulled up the 79 and 83 EFI ECU wiring diagrams and they seem essentially the same. Odd though that the 79 diagram doesn't show the O2 sensor circuit to the ECU. Just interesting that they apparently added the microprocessor to what had been a processor-free system. 1979 Uploading Attachment... 1983 Uploading Attachment...

Thanks much guys. That certainly explains why there isn’t an internal spring. I kept seeing the later version, and was pretty sure I didn’t loose it.

I am still thinking what to do about that indeed. Also the gas return spring on the flat tops is located on the carbs ofcourse. But atm i am planning to use the balancetube from the round top. Because it is been made almost to factory state. But then i have to find a new throtle linkage. I am also blocking off the coolant through the carbs. And then i but a sensor in the waterhousing. So that i can but electrical fans. Hoping it cools alot better. My old radiator was broken so bought that one also new.

Looking at reinstalling the 4-speed monkey motion (including the R180) into my 240z, but obviously need to service everything. I saw an amazing list of 240z fasteners from @inline6 (linked here), and wondering if similar thing exists for the seals, gaskets, pinions, bearings, bolts, washers, o-rings and such that can be replaced when servicing transmission/differential? I have a very pricey Motorsport Auto cart ready to go, but I'm confident I've missed a lot. I also reached out to ZCarDepot, but they understandably didn't have anything collated, and as far as I know, a "restoration bundle" doesn't exist anywhere. I had noticed ZCarDepot had a few bolts that ZStore didn't have, but going a bit crazy cross referencing. I know the microfiche and FSM could be of use here, but as a first-timer I get a little lost and looking to help myself out! Bonus points for any other Google Sheet resources beyond this need that might be useful for reference! A bit of a sucker for a database. Any help or steer would be appreciated, thank you!

Hi all! Looking to replace the ancient aftermarket exhaust system on my Series 1 240z, and curious what the best options available to me are. I saw a car recently on BaT that had the original style black tips, but not sure where that came from. I've never seen it on my internet travels. Check it out here: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-129/ I'd like to be as stock/OEM as possible. Pretty sure my headers are original, but would need muffler, exhaust, mounts etc.

Thanks! Pretty darn happy with how it all came out.

Not bad. There are still good Z project opportunities popping up out there. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-357/

The odometer clicked over 500 miles on Friday night, so I took the valve cover off yesterday and did both the leak down test and adjusted valves. Here were my leak down percentages: #1 = nearly 4% #2 = 2-3% closer to 2 #3 = 4% #4 = 4% #5 = 3% #6 = a little over 1% For my Iskenderian cam, the valve lash is .006" on the intakes and .008" on the exhaust. I set each so that the feeler gauge was a snug fit while the engine was cold. All of the cam lobe surfaces looked great! The next time I fire it up and get the oil warm, I'll change the oil. Today, I removed a portion of the exhaust and the driveshaft and measured the angles of the front engine dampener and the pinion flange on the differential. I believe I will be able to lower the transmission rear crossmember to bring the engine/transmission assembly to the same 87.1 degrees that the pinion flange is at. I will just need to add shims between the transmission crossmember and the car body. Oh! And I just remembered that I should check the angles in the horizontal plane (not just vertical) as well.

That's awesome. You totally nailed it!!

Why not contact “junkyard Jenny” She probably has what you need to replace your existing mechanism. Sounds like you might need both sides. Good people.

After adjusting the valve lash a couple times, I timed the distributor which was really close. I tried my hand at tuning the carbs. This video VHS and flowmeter came with the car. I backed everything off, but still was getting a 1,000 rpm idle. Seemed a bit high. I would put the flow gauge on the front carb and adjust it so the ball was in the middle. Then go to the rear carb, the ball was way high, no way to back down the idle screws anymore. I figured there must be a vacuum leak somewhere. I squirted brake clean around but didn't make any noticeable difference. I couldn't get them the same. The next day, while fiddling around with it, I grabbed my broken stethoscope, and started poking 1 of the hoses around when whaaam! There it is. The rear carb is leaking around the throttle shaft. These carbs were just done by ZTherapy 2 or 3 years before the car was parked some 22 years ago. I had a chat with them, boxed them up, and they are now in their hands. I hope it's an easy fix.....

Any time! LOL

I used piggy back connectors on the nail head studs on the top of the sending unit. Coverd it all with liquid electrical tape. Worked good for me, the rubber boots fell all to pieces on my '72.

Trying to setup my Jenvey ITB's without a linkage rod. I have seen some people use a throttle wheel for a cable setup that bolts up to the side of one of the ITB's. Does anyone know where I can find something like that? Jenvey does not seem to sell anything like that. I would prefer that setup as it keeps everything really clean without a linkage rod. Thank you!

Man that is a sexy z car

It's more indecision than anything. I'm not usually prone to indecision, but I'd really like to stick with a fiberglass scoop, and couldn't convince myself to go metal. I also think you're better off selling the four pieces together, than having two fenders and one scoop, so it probably works out OK. I do appreciate you checking on them for me. Good luck! As a friend of mine likes to say, "My wife loves that sh*t!". @CanTechZ I'll send you a PM and hopefully we can move this forward!

@jfa.series1 That certainly didn’t take long!!

Yes, a great read and many thanks to @JDMjunkies.ch for putting that together. Great job, as always, to Kats and Alan.

Perfect, thanks Ernest

You might have to use some sealant on the inside. I believe "Seal-all" would be my first choice https://www.amazon.com/Seal-All-380113-Adhesive-2-Ounce/dp/B0015AE0AU/ref=asc_df_B0015AE0AU?mcid=73fbe515071334428dde54fff0cb8519&hvocijid=2708339363523471354-B0015AE0AU-&hvexpln=73&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=721245378154&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2708339363523471354&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010452&hvtargid=pla-2281435177578&psc=1

Are you buying these from a supplier? If so it should state the fitment parameters. Gotta know more details. Is this exhaust new or used?