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I know you had a heat problem when in Panama. Did you also have that problem after moving to Europe? Maybe just a lower temp thermostat rather than no thermostat should at least get your engine to warm up a little quicker. On the PCV and thermostat, both should be readily available at any auto parts store. Both thermostat and PCV are very easy to replace.

I'm not saying you're wrong about the vibration source, but many years ago, a friend had a '56 Ford pickup that someone had slopped a 302 ci engine into. The engine was visibly out of alignment both vertically and horizontally, and it ate u-joints every six months, but it never vibrated at speed.

Well short story, according to new experienced mechanic the PCV ia shut and needs to be replaced. This was causing oil built up on cylinder 3 and 4. He also removed the thermostat for the car to run better. Im still testing the car as i really dont like waiting so long for the engine to warm up and scared of the fact the pcv is shut and needs to be replaced. I guess nobody really wants to test this car under heavy traffic conditions to determine the cause and solution of this problem.

Ok, I took a measurement on the factory transmission crossmember. The crossmember has a "drop" of 5/8". So, when the crossmember is bolted into place, the top surface that the transmission isolator is 5/8" lower than the ends. The Techno Toys Tuning has the same amount of drop. The difference is that the hole for the isolator is shifted back also - it is not exactly in line with the transmission crossmember mounting holes like the stock one. It seems that all is well up front. It is possible that the 240SX transmission locates in a slightly different position vertically than the stock 4 speed. However, as I discovered when loosening the transmission crossmember bolts enough to drop the transmission about a 1/4" or so, the angle of the output shaft of the transmission didn't change much. It went from about 89 degrees to about 88.5. Turning my attention to the rear differential isolator, it is easy to see that there is an angle "built into it". While somewhat difficult to see in this picture while installed in the car, if you look closely at the vertical plate of the isolator and compare to the straight edge, you might be able to tell that the top of the vertical plate is closer to the straight edge than the bottom. Removing the isolator from the car, I confirmed that part number of 55415-E4102. This one was replaced new by the prior owner of the car and remained unused other than supporting the diff in the car for about 28 years. Outside the car, it is easier to see the amount of incline built into the part. I measured the angle on the cardboard surface and got .3. So, 3.6 minus .3 is 3.3 degrees. Ok... Why? One would have to assume that there is something different about my car. Too much angle on the rear section of the driveshaft which is causing a driveline vibration - it would not be a possibility that the engineers got this wrong, would it? And, now that I have been through all of this, I am fairly certain that I have been here and done this with my track car before. I believe I ended up modifying the differential isolator to reduce this angle for that car as well. I am very interested to see if this issue (too much upward incline at the front of the differential relative to the output of the transmission) is present in unmodified pre-72 model year cars.

Too funny. That's what I get for buying someone else's project. BTW, I've been called worse than stickler. Lol.

CO, the condensor on my coil is connected to the + post along with the B/W wire. Also, a condensor is on my alternator as you pictured.

So... Condensers. None of them are shown on the original wiring diagrams, yet it is clear that some exist. I'm working on some revisions to the wiring diagram and I'd like to put the condensers on it. It seems pretty clear that there should be a condenser mounted on the distributor. And it's connected to the points side of the coil (coil negative) like this: Next, it seems pretty clear there should be a condenser mounted over on the coil itself. Question is... Should it be connected to the coil (+), or the coil (-)? Seems to me that it should be connected to the coil (+), since the condenser mounted on the distributor is already connected to the coil (-): Next, is the voltage regulator and alternator. Here's a pic that shows the condenser at the voltage regulator, but there is no condenser on the alternator itself: But I've seen pics with a condenser mounted right on the back side of the alternator, like this: So, my outstanding questions are: 1) To which coil connection (battery side, or points side) does the condenser on the coil make connection to? 2) Should there be a condenser on the back of the alternator? And thank you all for the hoovered pics. I'm pretty sure some of them came from members here.

In the previous version (of this site) it was absolutely possible to change the title, but i think only in the first month or so..

Still in the crate. Has odd exhaust ports. Has anyone seen this before? Also has an odd "temperature sensor bung" that looks like it was welded on. Maybe for use in the 280ZX? N42 heads didn't use the cylinder head temperature sensor. Bring a TrailerNo Reserve: Datsun L28 Crate EngineBid for the chance to own a No Reserve: Datsun L28 Crate Engine at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #190,091.

Leaking oil pan gasket? And... Mismatched hardware holding the slave cylinder on?? From you? Stickler for details? I'm shocked!!! Hahahaha!!!! 😁

I was under my 1'70 car this morning, took this pic to show an installed early slave cylinder, with the external spring and adjustable actuator rod.

Any chance of correcting this thread title's 'J30' to 'S30.world'? Might help future searches...

Sounds like it worked out in your favor after all.

Selling an L24 engine with manual transmission, Located in Southern Ontario, Canada. Will post more information and photo's later.

Will post photo's at a later date.

Yeah, that cap certainly doesn't sound healthy. Hope that the new replacement fixes it!

I agree. In spite of my overall frustration with the order it was a class move on their part. Rodger

That was nice of him to "comp" you

I didn't want to deal with silicon goop of any kind but my plan is to cut screen pieces slightly larger than the holes they are supposed to cover on the inside of the cowl and epoxy those small super strong magnets to strategic areas of the screen where they would fit flat against the underside of the cowl. More than strong enough to hold the screens in place and easily removable to get rid of stubborn leaf debris that might get stuck between the screen edges and the underside of the cowl.

After exchanging emails several times with Chris at s30 it was determined that the initial gas tank shipment was lost. They finally resent it about a week ago and now they estimate that it should arrive the first week of May (per Chris in today's email). Twelve weeks after my initial order. It's a good thing i wasn't in a big hurry. They say they have added the door rubber strips and emergency cable to make up for the inconvenience. I'm out of town for two weeks starting tomorrow. I'll post an update if/when this thing shows up. Rodger

Restoring the hubcaps. I decided to freshen up the hubcaps a little. 3 were a faded gray, and 1 was a darker color, almost blackish gray. My first step was cleaning the area between the chrome and the paint. The tape line. I used 0000 steel wool. Then I degreased it and applied 1/4" fine line tape all the way around. It really helps to see so I used these magnifying goggles and a headlamp, and a good light. Once I had that tape on, I used a wider tape and continued around until it was masked off. Same for the center cap. Then I used a scotch Brite pad and scuffed and cleaned the old paint. Blew it off with air and degreased the old paint until the rag was clean. It took several cleanings, but this is a very important step. Then when the wind quit blowing, I gave them several coats of the Datsun Gray paint purchased from California Datsun, great stuff! An hour later, I removed the tape. It came off easy, pulling at a right angle to the paint.

Have you heard of @zclocks on this site. He’s pretty much the expert on these clocks. I’d reach out to him and see if he will take it on.

Cleaning out my shed of Z items. Free to the first person to pick up in Johnson Lane, NV (Reno/Tahoe area). Set of 4 Epsilon 3 piece wheels with black centers. Wheels were setup in 1982 by Mark Morris Tires in Portland, OR for a 1981 280ZX. I've also run these on 3 different 240Zs over the years. The mounted tires are too old to use and will need to be discarded. The wheels have blemishes expected after over 30 years of use. They still clean up good enough to use as is or restore. NOS Ansa resonator (rear muffler) for a 240Z. This muffler mounts horizontally (dual outlet), not vertically. These were popular on 240Zs during the 1970s. EDIT: Added photo of the wheels on my last 240Z.

The non working clocks capacitor I removed measures 111uF, so that was probably still good. The working clock that loses time capacitor starts off at 0, then takes a minute or 2 and only climbs to .8uF, then goes up and down from .8 to .6, so maybe the new capacitor will fix this one. I cleaned all the gears, resoldered all the connections and replaced the cap so maybe I'll get lucky. I'll let it run a couple days to see. Yesterday it lost 10 min in 24 hours, a few days before about 6 min in 24 hours, and a few days before that 45 min in 12 hours. In between all this it held perfect time in 24 hour periods. Its very random when it works or doesn't. I looked everywhere trying to find a 12v quartz movement or buy another clock to gut that could be retrofitted into this, but for the cost, it would probably be better just to send it to instrument services, they said they charge $200 to rebuild them.