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  1. Today
  2. What you're saying sounds correct. I've read about the rear hub race surface wearing/wallowing. The guys that race see it more often. Hybridz has some stories. I wonder if there is enough material there to be machined and sleeved. A good machinist might have better ideas. Metal spray or welding, for example.
  3. wray85 joined the community
  4. I'm located in Western Canada Yes, there is a B Spacer/Distance Piece and its a B Hub/Strut Assembly. I previously measured the spacer and it appears to be in spec according to the FSM and I don't see any damage to the spacer. The outer threads on the stub axle aren't spectacular after removing the original stub axel nut so I'm going to get them cleaned up at a machine shop but the inner threads (where the nut actually sits once tight) seem to still be good so I'm assuming the compression forces were decent esp once I got it up to the full 240 ft-lb even if the nut may have been affected by the less than perfect outer threads on its way on. To be clear, I can still hand tighten the nut on to the stub axle on the bench with the companion flange out of the way, but its quite draggy through first few threads. I already have ordered a few more new stub axle nuts as well in case the new, just removed but not yet staked, one got damaged. The washer that goes between the nut and companion flange is also new. All to say, my suspicion is that the outer-diameter of the inner wheel bearing has some play in the hub which I imagine should be an interference fit and I shouldn't be able to slide the inner bearing in and out of the hub by hand. Since the outboard bearing isn't tapered, I would imagine it cannot offer much resistance to radial movement of the inner bearing leading to the play I'm seeing. Feel free to correct me if anything I'm saying here isn't adding up or if you need more pics to help me figure out what's going on here. I think my first move is to figure out how to get the inner bearing to fit more securely in the hub. Thanks!
  5. SteveJ started following FRENCH 1972 240Z
  6. SteveJ commented on dmc12's comment on a gallery image in Big Z Photo Collection
  7. dmc12 started following FRENCH 1972 240Z
  8. dmc12 commented on dmc12's comment on a gallery image in Big Z Photo Collection
  9. Was there a spacer in the hub along with the bearing? They are stamped a,b, or c according to the thickness.
  10. Yeah I agree. So I took the day off today so I have the time to remove the transmission and replace the rear tail shaft bushing. Headed out to the garage shortly to start on that.
  11. Top car shipping companies in Pennsylvania, like Rapid Auto Shipping, provide dependable, affordable, and fully insured vehicle transport services. Located in Pennsylvania, we offer door-to-door delivery, real-time tracking, and excellent customer care. Whether you’re moving locally or across the country, Rapid Auto Shipping makes the process simple and stress-free with trusted carriers and expert service.
  12. socorob posted a post in a topic in Electrical
    I'm pretty sure this one was electrical. I put the circuit boards from the working clock onto the gears and face of the one that wasn't working, because they looked a little nicer, and the clock has been working since. I suspect its either the crystal or that part that the gear with the magnet? goes in that makes it turn, because it wouldn't turn with all the other gears detached from it.
  13. Top car shipping companies pennsylvania, like Rapid Auto Shipping, provide dependable, affordable, and fully insured vehicle transport services. Located in Pennsylvania, we offer door-to-door delivery, real-time tracking, and excellent customer care. Whether you’re moving locally or across the country, Rapid Auto Shipping makes the process simple and stress-free with trusted carriers and expert service.
  14. Haha!! That's what I tell myself. 😃
  15. Rapid Auto Shipping joined the community
  16. Where are you located?
  17. Hi All, In a final push to get my 280z across the finish line and through a safety/registration for the summer after 7 years of garage bound ownership, but I've been thwarted by a stubbornly wiggly driver side rear wheel bearing. The rears had wheel bearing play that showed up in the original safety inspection. I've replaced the bearings and seals on both sides. The passenger side is fine, but the drivers side still has a lot of play even after managing to get the full max recommended 240 ft-lb torque into the stub axle nut. I took it apart again and noticed the inner bearing was able to be slid in an out of the hub by hand and on inspection there is some evidence of the outer race (of the old originally removed bearing) having spun in the hub. I confirmed the OD of the new (installed but not driven) and originally removed bearings that did have miles on them appear to be the same (to the 100th of a mm) I'm going to try to call some machine shops tomorrow to see if boring and sleeving is an option since strut assemblies are hard to come by. Does a bearing with the same inner race ID for the stub axle but a very slightly larger outer race diameter I can bore back to an interference fit without sleeving exist? Is there somewhere I could find replacement strut assemblies or something with a new or used hub I haven't managed to find yet? I imagine I could go full T3 coilovers or something like that that will provide a new hub, but I would far prefer to not to go down that pricey rabbit hole just yet. Any other ideas are greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  18. Yarb posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    That’s exactly what everyone needs to do.
  19. ZROT joined the community
  20. zbfpitt32 joined the community
  21. w3wilkes started following Darn Tire Jockeys
  22. w3wilkes posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    The last time I got tires I took the wheels off the car and went to the tire store. They did mount and balance (no outside weights), I took them home and put them back on the car. No issues.
  23. Yesterday
  24. For our Canadian friends... We appreciate it! Yes! Y'all brought back my favorite thread.
  25. We appreciate it! This whole album was good. You might also remember Hard to Laugh and She's So Young. Both had pretty solid airplay back in the day in Canada.
  26. You're welcome. I'm glad that my sketch was useful. And great work on the parts. Regarding the "unprofitable time" to make them, the $/hour rate you made is more than offset by the priceless feeling of accomplishment. Unless of course you don't have a day job. Lol
  27. @CanTechZ Thanks!! And a completely unprofitable amount of time later, I have these...
  28. RIP260Z started following Hose Clamp Finishes
  29. RIP260Z posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    Not that its a huge amount of info to go on, but I got some NOS hose clamps which are correct fitment for the 520 truck heater, in their bag, and they are clear/plain zinc. I'm working on a different era of hose clamps, period mid 1960's for the CSP311, and it seems Nissan was in the midst of changing and constantly changing, thread, head and style of clamp, and for different places on the car. I think its also a moveable thing through the S30 pruduction years.
  30. Don't know if this has already been posted, but Urban Cowboy FTW.
  31. Right on the mark IMO, what a great photo.
  32. Never heard of it.. but after listening, i CAN imagine that it stays in my head today.. thanks hahaha!
  33. Finally figured out who played this song I've been hearing. Need to share. For our Canadian friends...
  34. IMHO, That is not a good idea moving forward. You won’t be able to access all points of concern if it’s not on the bench. I personally have gone through a couple of the “B” series and access is critical. You’re already half way there removing the shaft. Not to mention you’re going to have to rotate the tail shaft back and forth to remove and install. Personally I wouldn’t do it in the car. My 2cents.
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