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Perfect....Many thanks...very appreciated

Long time not on here... I had a TON of trouble figuring out how to install them on my 75 Z since the instructions sucked. It is slightly different and I had some other custom parts, but I took this assembly stack picture to document how I put mine together... hope this help.

Question: In the attached picture, one can see a metal thimble shaped bushing (top left of the five small parts). Nowhere in the schematic instruction sheet that came with parts does it show where this part is supposed to be positioned in the final assembly. I need help as I'm not smart enough to figure that out for myself. Thanks

I think I'll just stick to the rear differential or the front crossmember pad, never had a problem with these points.

Nope, you're not imagining...

So I took a close look at the $310K BAT Green Series 1 and was a bit surprised. In multiple places is looks like the hoops are yellow and the screw mechanism is clear. Am I imagining this?

@inline6 now's your time to shine some of that knowledge on this fellow restorer. 🤓

The $300k BaT car is a good place to look. It's pretty original

If your interested, here is my topic about the restore of my 280zx. At first i could not find it my own started topic, under "my started topic's" @Mike i had to do the search option? 280zx 1979 2+2 slick roof restauration - Classic ZX - 2nd to 4th Generation - Classic Zcar Community

Hi George, Not much experience with shocks, just do not forget to put some (used or old?) oil inbetween the chock and it's container.. it helps the cooling a lot! and it does not rust!

Hello All, I am swapping to a 250z(N36) fan 240z(E46) balance tube. I'm trying to figure out which throttle linkage it requires. Do I need a full 240z throttle linkage from balance tube to fire wall or would replacing the shorter "J Rod" from the shorter 260z to the longer 240z be the only thing i need. Thank you

With 12 months and only 1 digit, what does Nissan use for the last three months: "A" and "B"? Or something else? I have caliper here that has "X" in this position. Maybe the 10th, 11, and 12th months are "X", "Y", and "Z"?

Yeah, but that rule of thumb might be better said that "everything in the cabin is clear, otherwise yellow". Because most all the undercarriage is yellow. It seems like Nissan felt that if it is to be seen (without opening the hood), it should be silver-colored. Yellow, with it's additional chromate protection, seems to be mostly reserved for items out-of-sight of passengers. But I'd still like additional opinions...what color(s) have you seen your original hose clamps? I mean both the engine compartment ones as well as the one back by the fuel evap tank.

Yes, I apologize... In true internet forum fashion, I got involved in the topic and never answered the question that was asked. And I also apologize that I do not know the answer. I've heard that "everything in front of the firewall was yellow chromate, and everything behind the firewall was clear." Not sure if that's 100% correct, but it's more correct than not. So if that rule holds true, then your brake master clamps should be yellow.

Let's see, redline is 7,000 with the yellow zone starting at 6,500 RPM. Keep revving it to 8,000 RPM like you describe and your problem will eventually be solved when you have to replace the engine after it blows up! Oh, when that happens, you might want to select a different engine builder than whoever built this one. There is NO REASON for revving it like you describe, unless you have a death wish for the engine.

What i meant is that i used to rev the car from 800 rpm to 8000 when i finished driving and parking the car back. I usually dont do it that often. Anyways i found a spare used pcv valve to replace the old one which according to mechanic was making plugs 4 and 3 foul due to oil. He capped this one and tuned the carbs so i could drive the car this way. I was wondering if i should keep testing the car this way? Or should i wait untila new pcv valve arrives.

You'd better correct or explain this. Otherwise, the CZCC members will write you off for good. Specifically: No one (in their right mind) tries to rev their engine up to 6000 rpm at rest. Hot or cold.

After taking my Z off the road in early November 2024, I'm back to trying to get these Koni shocks properly fitted in my Series 1. If any member has any updates from their Koni fitting experience(s), please share. Thanks

My Dad always preached to not put old parts you can afford to replace back on the car. Lots of exceptions to that statement but you all know what I'm saying.

I'm replacing the pump because of low fuel pressure. Looked like nothing back there had been touched since new. So that was the only problem. I alway suffer with the "while I'm at it" thing when I work on my cars.

What’s the problem you’re having?

The front end look great! It could easily be changed by the new owner. I suspect if he couldn't figure that out he probably would not be interested in buying a really nice z car.

I removed my fuel pump today and cleaned up all the mounting hardware in order to replace it along with with some new fuel hose. I've done this a few times on other z cars over the past decades. However, I've never replaced the fuel damper. I have removed dampers on at least two cars in the past with no ill effect. Can a fuel damper go bad? I suspect a damper doesn't have moving parts and it's there to prevent pulsations in the fuel delivery. My damper looks bad on the outside but it's canister is in solid condition. I doubt I could find a new OEM one if I wanted one. What could go bad with an OEM damper?

I've been using slotted hockey pucks as lift pads for several years. They work quite well. Just make sure that the slot is wide enough to keep the puck from wedging itself onto the pinch weld strip and deep enough so that the load is taken by the rocker and floor panel metal on either side of the pinch strip (rather than by the pinch strip itself).

Yeah this would be awesome. You can probably start with 3D printing prototypes. I know BMW has something similar with an adapter that can be mounted in a standard hydraulic jack. I believe it's called a "Jack Pad" or similar...