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I did but to no avail. I even ended up blasting the old grease/dirt out with brake cleaner and then relubing it with sprayable silicone lubricant but the squeak didn't go away

I'm wondering the age window myself. How much longer will people be interested in a 1972 Datsun?

The alternator test at the parts store?

By chance did you try a cleaner and spray able grease before you removed it. Trying to understand the process you went with.

Okay update All fuses are okay. One of the female spades in the "T" connector has 12.7 volts with the key off. The key in the Run position reads 11.8V but that also powering a electric fuel pump, so that is fine

I converted to electric fuel pump in my '71 Z and left the return fuel line in place. I figure this helps keep the fuel cooler because the heated fuel that doesn't get used in the carbs is returned to the tank which is cooler than the engine bay. I figure this allows more cool fuel from the tank to flow to the carbs. Also if it's available in Panama you should run ethanol free gas. The ethanol free I use is 88 octane and the car runs just fine. If you don't have ethanol free you should probably run premium. I do have ceramic coated headers and the heat shield under the carbs and I've seen my temp gauge get up to close to half way between the middle of the gauge and the hot side and didn't vapor lock. The weather here runs in the 90's (Fahrenheit) to 100 in the summer. As you've experienced, heavy traffic with lots of idling will heat these cars up!

Zedy…..Glad to see you still wearing your steel toed safety socks!!!!

Namerow, You are probably right. Ive spent so much money in parts and mechanics in Panama. Luckily, after 11 years of having purchased this car, this is the first mechanic who got all 6 spark plugs tanned correctly due to PCV valve not working correctly. I still have my theory of vapor lock and will remove the a/c condenser and fan i previously installed for the AC in my car. Do you think i need to leave the gas return line open for the car work better. (Airtex 8012S electric fuel pump)

Worry not my good man, your words of advice will not go unheeded. I will check out those parts this evening when I get home. A simple Alternator test is just one more part of the equation. It is simple and free.

I have seen the diode fail open in that design before. That would keep the car from charging. Also, if the ignition fuse in the fuse box is blown, it won't charge. The test I asked @Zedyone_kenobi to perform would help to identify those problems.

I am currently running the MSA 60 amp alternator kit. It was purchased back in 2010. All my tests were at the battery. After I get the alternator tested, I will run the tests SteveJ mentioned. If the alternator comes back bad, then issue solved.

I'm sad just reading this. What a beautiful car! I'm certainly no expert, but it looks like a car that would do well on BAT to me.

Gents, Looks like I might have to put up my Z for sale and I'm curious to know if there's a good market for the early-series Z cars right now. Mine is a 1971 model with parts from 1970 and 1971. Most of you know the history of my car but in a nutshell it was completely sandblasted and restored from the frame. Serial numbers do not match as the original owner let the car freeze while it was in storage. I've had the car since I was in high school (a looooong time ago). I bought it from the father of the original owner, Bob Gilder (pro golfer). Bob used the car when he was just getting started as a newlywed in the PGA. He used to drive the car to tournaments and I might be able to dig out a few photos of him pulling clubs out of the back of the car. Car was originally silver. Engine is a balanced/blueprinted L28 from Rebello and the carbs are triple Mikuni's with separate air cleaners. This was the first engine to have the triple weber setup from Steve at Ztherapy. Unfortunately it does not have the triple SU's as Steve kept those for his own projects. Suspension is adjustable Tokico's and matching springs. Pretty much everything else is stock except for the color of course. It does have sway bars installed. Dash is a new one from Les Cannaday when he was building the early reproductions that Nissan put together. Wheels are VTO classic 8's wrapped with tires that are only a few years old. Right now she's sitting covered in a storage unit and I just don't have the space to keep her at home. Windshield is the last remaining unit that we found in Nissan's inventory. All other glass is original, including the hatch with vertical defrosters (a 1970 model leftover when it was assembled). I have a Nismo fuel pump and bracket that has not yet been installed. Plenty of books, manuals, microfiche, and extra goodies will come with the deal. Not many things wrong, but there are a few glitches. The brake fluid distribution valve could use a rebuild. Some brake fluid dripped onto the rail under the distribution valve caused the paint to peel a bit. The MSA 6-1 headers get very hot and it affects the braking, I would think new owner should have the headers removed and coated or covered to prevent this (or use a higher temp brake fluid). There is a small paint bubble near the fuel filler that I have not yet looked into. Headlight cones were painted after the main car was done so the paint color is slightly different (body guy wasn't able to match the color exactly). Cold starts after sitting for months can sometimes take a few times, but she starts and drives without issue. Engine sounds great and does not leak any oil. Entire car is pristine and needs more daily attention than I've been giving her... I would consider her a stock resto-mod. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions or just comment here. Not sure if it would pull more value with a direct sale or if I should even consider putting her up on BAT. Thanks guys! Mike

So this is not the factory setup for a 71? Does it have Dave Irwin's internal regulator modification?

The problem is that I don't see the results of the tests I suggested you do.

I'd start with a new battery and retest. I suspect the alternator or voltage regulator is bad, too. It may be as simple as overworking the alt. while trying to charge a battery that won't take a charge.

Hi all - I took the spring-loaded seat hinge apart to re-grease it since it was making a squeak noise when I moved in the seat (the arm that sits between the seat back and bottom that does not contain the angle adjusting hinge) and after re-assembling it, the hinge flops around. Does the spring need to be spun to get tensioned before re-assembly? If so, how is that done?

Yeah, weird. Another example of the original wiring diagram for the early cars falling short of accurate. The whole reason I started this journey! And I think I'm approaching the end. The mistakes being uncovered up are becoming less severe and less frequent. I'll have the new rev out soon. Changes to the horn system, some power distribution stuff (grounding scheme), and of course, the condensers.

Cool. And those wheels did clean up nice!

I pulled the alternator this morning (wearing my osha white safety socks - those who have followed my Z build will understand) and plan on taking it to get tested this afternoon. None of my connections were lose or corroded. No matter what I do the amperage never changes or moves with revs and the battery will NOT read more than 12.3 volts.

They are really aluminum. My 911 has factory aluminum lug nuts. They are a bit of a pain as you need a cushioned socket to keep from damaging them and no air tool, ever. They cleaned up pretty good. I may get them polished and checked for roundness.

You're welcome. This is strange indeed. The images I posted came from a parts book CD I purchased from Courtesy Nissan about 15 years ago. When I picked up #957 last year it came with a two volume original 1970 FSM set. The body and chassis volume is dated November 1, 1969. Strangely the L20A, L24 engine volume is not dated, but it does show the early version of the EE-71 diagram with only one condenser and no mention of other engine electrical condensers. With #957 I also got one of the 1997 reprints (for the N.A. Vintage Zed program) of a 1970 FSM as a single volume. Even that one shows only the one condenser in the EE section.

Are the lug nuts really aluminum? Really? Was that a thing paired with really light wheels? I would use those on the track and check them often, but sounds sketchy to run aluminum nuts on the street.

Fingers crossed! So the old dead cap either went open circuit, or shorted internally. That style of cap (known as an aluminum electrolytic) has been known to go either way. If it went short, the clock wouldn't run at all. If it went totally open, the clock might work, or might not. Sounds like yours did just that. Hope you're good from here! Too bad about the other clock though. Probably nothing can be done with that one unless you find NOS of the xtal and/or the control chip.

Thanks for the help. I have an incomplete version of the 1970 FSM, but I've been through the EE section. It don't think it shows all the condensers. For example, the circuit diagram you posted only showed the condenser mounted on the distributor. They didn't include the one on the coil attached to the positive side (crudely grafted onto the the diagram below): And they didn't show how the tach connects! At least not until 1972, and it was still cryptic then!