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Black/yellow - 12VDC switched from key in START. Black/white - 12VDC switched from ignition relay. The ignition relay coil is energized by the key in ON.

Hi gents I'm redoing the wiring harness in my Z and hope someone could help. I've come across these wires - which used to connect to the ECU. Here's what I know Green -> goes to the fuel pump Red/White -> 12V from the battery The two that I don't know are the black/white and black/yellow. From this diagram it looks like the black/yellow goes to the ignition switch among other place and the white goes to the ignition relay and the "IG" part of the fuse box. So would these be 12V switched? I am a bit confused. I've attached photos of the wires themselves as well as the part of the diagram where they are. Any help would be wonderful! Thank you Jan

Any time! LOL

Thanks everyone. I’ve identified #4 as p/n 30501-K0401. Still available through Nissan. Should have it by Friday. Still available since it Fits later model cars and trucks. I’m running the T5 transmission from a 83 ZX 280et. I’ll report back once everything comes in. Thanks for the help. Much appreciated.

Here's an old post from TerrapinZ with good measurements. Just noticed that posts don't have numbers anymore. Bummer. It's about 1/3 down page 12 if the link doesn't take you directly there.

@mayolives Thanks my friend! Now I need to find the Nissan P/N.

@Patcon Do you know where I can find a listing of the collar lengths?

😇Good ole Blue! I miss that rascal.

I should have mentioned the distributor itself also. They are known for worn bushings allowing the reluctor wheel to contact the stator ring, breaking things. If it won't start with fluid, it's not going to start with gasoline. Good old Blue wrote up a thing about them. The magnetic pickup can fail, there's a test for that. The air gap can be off, there's a measurement for that. Described in the Electrical chapter. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html

Fair enough. Not by the car now but tried starter fluid yesterday and it didn't do anything. All the tests at the ECU checked out except the voltage test for the air regulator on pin 21 so I know I probably need to do some harness tracing. Do you know of any tests for the icm? The coil seems fine but I'll probably just buy a new coil since they're not to expensive just to make sure it's not that.

You said but you didn't describe. Try starting fluid. If it starts but runs poorly, it's not fuel pressure.

Sparks not particularly strong, coil seems to test well, not entirely sure how to check the module. Just finished doing test at the ECU connection via the fsm and about to check fuel. Relay due to a bad air regulator read. Like I said in post I know the fuel pressure is due to check valve on the fuel pump side so I'm not worried about fpr failure

Is the spark strong and blue or weak and orange? I had an ignition module go bad and it showed spark. But the engine would only start with starting fluid. As far as fuel, the fuel pressure regulators tend to start leaking down if they sit for a long time. The seat n the FPR gets corroded. They will maintain pressure while the pump is running but leak down quickly once it stops. The simple test is to clamp the feed or return lines and see what the pressure does.

She had problems with the valve and after a bunch of back and forth finally found one on E-bay from somebody like "sam the fuel guy"??? Her's is a '78 280 but it will be the same as far as I know.

Hello all I have a 1983 280zx na that sat for a while and in February I went to get it going again. It started but didn't drive for crap went through all the diag in the bible and the fsm concluded the fuel pump wasn't up to task, replaced it and all was well. Due to unfortunate circumstances I had to leave it until this Monday and it started right up then immediately started acting up if I rev it to like 3-4k I can get it kinda steady but when I stop it slowly peteres out and wont start up again, then it did it again yesterday same exact thing. Sparks there gets fuel to pressure. The only thing I can find wrong diag wise is on a pressure leak down test, with the pump running it stays at 40 with the car off (can't see pressure gauge from in the car during the 60 seconds of running I get as im by myself) and as soon as pump stops it's drops to 0 within 2-3 seconds I know it's leaking back through the pump and not anything on the fuel rail. Since I know it's gets to correct pressure I can't understand why it won't start back up after the initial crank idk what I'm missing and it's driving me crazy. If the check valve on the pump being bad can actually cause this issue can someone please explain why. This is my first time ever going on a forum of any kind so if I didn't follow a protocol of sorts or I was to long winded I apologize, any help would be greatly appreciated please and thank you

The mice chewed the warped spare tire cover, so my daughter and I went to home depot and bought a 4' x 8' sheet of 3/16" pressed hardboard. It looks identical, might be a hair thinner. Traced my old one and made a new one

Honestly, I really tried hard to get everything correct for my build date. I came pretty close, but at a certain point I got what I could because financially, this car was eating my lunch. Just because it was a 240z part, the price was 10x the normal. Brake wheel cylinders for example. One of the parts not original to the car, is this bullet tip antenna. My 6/71 came with this tip, I think, unless it was switched. One of the first articles I read on this site was how to fix these antennas using weed trimmer line. I couldn't figure out how to get the tip off, I ended up cutting it off...nooooooo.😣 oh, it unscrews.... The second part is the radio, the one I found is too early for this car, like the antenna and brake master cylinder. It's the red light radio, mine should have came with a green. I would possibly consider trading somebody for the correct pieces........😏

Haha!! Very nice! I'll PM you! Thanks!!

Unless you're really worried about authenticity for your specific build date, I wouldn't worry about it. Basically, it appears there were two versions of that early master cylinder, but the only difference was how they marked the "F" and "R" output ports. Up until around August or September of 1970 the masters had the output port locations stamped with the letter "F" or "R". But then after that, they went to "cast-in" identification marks. I jokingly called them "early early", vs just "early". Haha! The bottom line is that the master cylinder you had rebuilt was used on cars before the fall of 1970, so it's "too early" for your build date. There was some discussion about the changes in the early style master cylinder here in this thread: Page 3 https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/65579-brake-master-cylinder-46010-e4602-up-to-91971/?page=3

I used piggy back connectors on the nail head studs on the top of the sending unit. Coverd it all with liquid electrical tape. Worked good for me, the rubber boots fell all to pieces on my '72.

I would use Seals all on the inside of the connections. I once used it on a Ford fuel tank that had small perforations in it. Worked great!

Captain! Yes, they did completely rebuild it. It cost a little more than I was quoted because they said the plastic reservoirs were brittle, and cracked. Thank you for the information, I knew it was probably from car #1042, but I didn't know there was another version. I appreciate all the help you and others have been on this project. PM me your address and I'll send you a couple choke handle screws. 1 for using and 1 for losin.

Yep, that guy's got some writing and acting talent. A really good communicator. Very enlightening and entertaining! I think he probably could/should have included an explanation as to how/why the two sides of an unaligned U-joint can turn at different and varying speeds. Maybe it would have been too much, but I think it could involve a little trigonometry, and who wouldn't like that?!

This video is good as well - much longer and somewhat entertaining actually: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgNZfIR-8Ng