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If your interested, here is my topic about the restore of my 280zx. At first i could not find it my own started topic, under "my started topic's" @Mike i had to do the search option? 280zx 1979 2+2 slick roof restauration - Classic ZX - 2nd to 4th Generation - Classic Zcar Community

Hi George, Not much experience with shocks, just do not forget to put some (used or old?) oil inbetween the chock and it's container.. it helps the cooling a lot! and it does not rust!

Hello All, I am swapping to a 250z(N36) fan 240z(E46) balance tube. I'm trying to figure out which throttle linkage it requires. Do I need a full 240z throttle linkage from balance tube to fire wall or would replacing the shorter "J Rod" from the shorter 260z to the longer 240z be the only thing i need. Thank you

Another date question...is the month number based on 1=Jan, 2=Feb, etc (calendar year) OR is 1=Sep, 2=Oct (model year). I ask because this latter method is how GM date codes items. Also, with 12 months and only 1 digits, what does Nissan use for the last two months: "A" and "B", or "11", "12"? Or something else? I have caliper that has "X" in the first position. ???

Yeah, but that rule of thumb might be better said that "everything in the cabin is clear, otherwise yellow". Because most all the undercarriage is yellow. It seems like Nissan felt that if it is to be seen (without opening the hood), it should be silver-colored. Yellow, with it's additional chromate protection, seems to be mostly reserved for items out-of-sight of passengers. But I'd still like additional opinions...what color(s) have you seen your original hose clamps? I mean both the engine compartment ones as well as the one back by the fuel evap tank.

Yes, I apologize... In true internet forum fashion, I got involved in the topic and never answered the question that was asked. And I also apologize that I do not know the answer. I've heard that "everything in front of the firewall was yellow chromate, and everything behind the firewall was clear." Not sure if that's 100% correct, but it's more correct than not. So if that rule holds true, then your brake master clamps should be yellow.

Let's see, redline is 7,000 with the yellow zone starting at 6,500 RPM. Keep revving it to 8,000 RPM like you describe and your problem will eventually be solved when you have to replace the engine after it blows up! Oh, when that happens, you might want to select a different engine builder than whoever built this one. There is NO REASON for revving it like you describe, unless you have a death wish for the engine.

What i meant is that i used to rev the car from 800 rpm to 8000 when i finished driving and parking the car back. I usually dont do it that often. Anyways i found a spare used pcv valve to replace the old one which according to mechanic was making plugs 4 and 3 foul due to oil. He capped this one and tuned the carbs so i could drive the car this way. I was wondering if i should keep testing the car this way? Or should i wait untila new pcv valve arrives.

You'd better correct or explain this. Otherwise, the CZCC members will write you off for good. Specifically: No one (in their right mind) tries to rev their engine up to 6000 rpm at rest. Hot or cold.

After taking my Z off the road in early November 2024, I'm back to trying to get these Koni shocks properly fitted in my Series 1. If any member has any updates from their Koni fitting experience(s), please share. Thanks

My Dad always preached to not put old parts you can afford to replace back on the car. Lots of exceptions to that statement but you all know what I'm saying.

I'm replacing the pump because of low fuel pressure. Looked like nothing back there had been touched since new. So that was the only problem. I alway suffer with the "while I'm at it" thing when I work on my cars.

What’s the problem you’re having?

The front end look great! It could easily be changed by the new owner. I suspect if he couldn't figure that out he probably would not be interested in buying a really nice z car.

I removed my fuel pump today and cleaned up all the mounting hardware in order to replace it along with with some new fuel hose. I've done this a few times on other z cars over the past decades. However, I've never replaced the fuel damper. I have removed dampers on at least two cars in the past with no ill effect. Can a fuel damper go bad? I suspect a damper doesn't have moving parts and it's there to prevent pulsations in the fuel delivery. My damper looks bad on the outside but it's canister is in solid condition. I doubt I could find a new OEM one if I wanted one. What could go bad with an OEM damper?

I've been using slotted hockey pucks as lift pads for several years. They work quite well. Just make sure that the slot is wide enough to keep the puck from wedging itself onto the pinch weld strip and deep enough so that the load is taken by the rocker and floor panel metal on either side of the pinch strip (rather than by the pinch strip itself).

Yeah this would be awesome. You can probably start with 3D printing prototypes. I know BMW has something similar with an adapter that can be mounted in a standard hydraulic jack. I believe it's called a "Jack Pad" or similar...

Motorsport Auto | Z Store Has the complete set shock absorbers and springs. For 625 dollar. when you see costs for a "today modern car" this is VERY VERY SHEAP !! I don't get todays cars they are stupidly expensive and brake down all the time.. and just to change a bulb the whole bumper has to come of???!! Welcome to todays technology it's crazy!!! And then all those stupid gadgets,, what? a auto windscreenwiper?? I DECIDE WHEN TO WIPE .. stupid car.. auto lights? going into a little tunnel.. the light flicks ON, and stay on for about a minute. pure waist of energy.. i know.. but if a million cars do this it's a LOT of waisted energy.. Lights on all day.. stupid waist of energy.. are people blind these days.. lights on should be there for motorbikes only during the day.. just my opinion.

Hahaha, site, thanks! Yeah, What can i ad.. My 280zx has still the original shocks, springs as it has a registered Dutch NAP of only 120000km on it! (It's also a 1979 280zx) If i needed some new shocks/springs i would contact KONI. I know that they make a very nice (Yellow??) shock absorber specially for the 280zx's.. springs i don't know.. i never really investigated it as my car is still 95+ % original. There is a big topic somewhere on here about KONI, use the search option.. Do you have a t-bar car.. i had 2.. and made a triangle under the hood so the chassis would be stronger, with a t-bar your windscreen breaks especially with the 2+2 chassis. The car body exhibits excessive torsion because of the length of the body. As my car is a slick roof it's not that neccessary to put a triangle in.

I only rev it up after driving for 30 mins once parked.

OK, I was so focused on the finish color I totally missed the fact that the screw was a hex-head instead of a pan-head JIS! D'oh! Captain, I really don't know the history of this car...so nothing surprises me. But here's my basic question...now that I have all the small hardware cleaned and ready to send out for plating, should all my hose clamps go in the "clear zinc" box or the "yellow zinc" box?

I think that was the prototype sketch for the model that came out the following year. ?

I had thought about making some slotted rubber pucks for the rocker panel seams but at home I just used the diff or the front cross member and the sub frames were dented anyway. I wonder how well a Z would lift using the four points shown in the Owners Manual. Is that not the ugliest drawing of a Z ever? 1973 Owner Manual. Looks like the summer intern did it.

There is a spring upgrade, Japanese I believe, for coil overs that allows you to run softer feeling springs than their effective rate. A good solution to prevent harshness. I can't remember the name currently

I told my #1 helper and the look on his face was pure disbelief. "WHAT?"