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  1. Today
  2. zKars posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Goggle “Throttle Pulley”. Came up with several sources. efihardware has nice stuff.
  3. Patcon posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Too funny! 😂 I routinely see cars with large rusted holes in them. They seem to work fine. Also in my state there are zero vehicle inspections! No smog, no emissions, no brake light check etc. It doesn't seem to create carnage on the roads. What does seem to create great issues is the invention of the smart phone! Which some drivers can't seem to put down long enough to get to where they're going!
  4. dutchzcarguy posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Also.. mechanics that check wheelbearings and stuff around the wheels with a tire iron and using the aluminum rims as a base to put force on something.. if i see that happen i'm asking him to stop or i'll put some force to something HE does not like! ;-) For the last 30 years i had a mechanic that did every APK (sort of MOT) every year on every car i have together with me and it has been GOLD. evry check-up costed me the standard 40 bucks and away i was, good for another year or even 2. Now these days cars of 50 years and older do not need any APK ( periodic roadworthiness inspection) .. and i think it's nonsens.. Our government thinks that people with that old cars are so much caring for their car that it does not need a inspection.. which i think should be at least every 5 years or so? In our country, things like shown in youtubes american " customers brought in" or something.. does not happen here.. i saw some cars in that "show" without any frooring in them and completely broken beams, gearboxes and and.. If a car in the netherlands has a rusty spot/hole as long as say 5 inches it's not roadworthy, it's illegal to drive that car any longer and you get high fines if you do. it first needs to get fixed properly!
  5. dutchzcarguy posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    story.. I always do tires myself in a friends shop.. he does my APK sort of MOT.. AND i'm ALWAYS PRESENT once a mechanic wanted to do to my 300zxtt what go's wrong with every 240z engine beams.. i was furius and it did not happen as i refused it. i really had to stop him! it would have ruined my perfect 300zxtt! BUT.. But we have a big tireshop here in the village.. I needed a new tire on my wheelbarrel.. So i took the old one off and cleaned up nicely my rim, sanded it and painted it the original red color.. I went with it to the tire shop and asked the boss himself if he had a tire for me, yes we have, give me the rim and i install it for you for free! I said: no not necessary! I rather do it myself! No,NO,... he insisted.. He ran from his office to the tire shop and started work, he had in no time the tire on, at least that's what he thought.. on the lower side the inner tube was still hanging out.. every body knows what happened next haha, luckely i was standing on the other side of the shop. he started to fill the innertube and .. KABOOOEEEMMM !!!!!!! that was the end of my own inner tire! Now i got a new inner and outer tire for the price of a outer wheelbarrel tire.. but it shows how much go's wrong at firms with decades of experience... At least he didn't scratch the new paint! 😊
  6. Great! I’ll send you a PM here and we can exchange better contact info.
  7. I am conveniently in this situation it seems, in the Calgary area @zKars . I definitely would appreciate if you're able to see if you have something in better nick than mine.
  8. I can help with a hub I think, will look tomorrow for sure. What part of western canada zRot? @ZROT
  9. I agree, I would find a different hub. Either in Canada or import from the US. Also the later axle nut from the 280zx I believe is self locking so no staking necessary
  10. Yesterday
  11. 71racinggreen joined the community
  12. Cheaper to ship it also. I’d go with a replacement unit and be done IMO
  13. That's a big area. If you're near Calgary, @zKars might be able to help you with a replacement hub.
  14. What you're saying sounds correct. I've read about the rear hub race surface wearing/wallowing. The guys that race see it more often. Hybridz has some stories. I wonder if there is enough material there to be machined and sleeved. A good machinist might have better ideas. Metal spray or welding, for example.
  15. wray85 joined the community
  16. I'm located in Western Canada Yes, there is a B Spacer/Distance Piece and its a B Hub/Strut Assembly. I previously measured the spacer and it appears to be in spec according to the FSM and I don't see any damage to the spacer. The outer threads on the stub axle aren't spectacular after removing the original stub axel nut so I'm going to get them cleaned up at a machine shop but the inner threads (where the nut actually sits once tight) seem to still be good so I'm assuming the compression forces were decent esp once I got it up to the full 240 ft-lb even if the nut may have been affected by the less than perfect outer threads on its way on. To be clear, I can still hand tighten the nut on to the stub axle on the bench with the companion flange out of the way, but its quite draggy through first few threads. I already have ordered a few more new stub axle nuts as well in case the new, just removed but not yet staked, one got damaged. The washer that goes between the nut and companion flange is also new. All to say, my suspicion is that the outer-diameter of the inner wheel bearing has some play in the hub which I imagine should be an interference fit and I shouldn't be able to slide the inner bearing in and out of the hub by hand. Since the outboard bearing isn't tapered, I would imagine it cannot offer much resistance to radial movement of the inner bearing leading to the play I'm seeing. Feel free to correct me if anything I'm saying here isn't adding up or if you need more pics to help me figure out what's going on here. I think my first move is to figure out how to get the inner bearing to fit more securely in the hub. Thanks!
  17. SteveJ started following FRENCH 1972 240Z
  18. SteveJ commented on dmc12's comment on a gallery image in Big Z Photo Collection
  19. dmc12 started following FRENCH 1972 240Z
  20. dmc12 commented on dmc12's comment on a gallery image in Big Z Photo Collection
  21. Was there a spacer in the hub along with the bearing? They are stamped a,b, or c according to the thickness.
  22. Yeah I agree. So I took the day off today so I have the time to remove the transmission and replace the rear tail shaft bushing. Headed out to the garage shortly to start on that.
  23. socorob posted a post in a topic in Electrical
    I'm pretty sure this one was electrical. I put the circuit boards from the working clock onto the gears and face of the one that wasn't working, because they looked a little nicer, and the clock has been working since. I suspect its either the crystal or that part that the gear with the magnet? goes in that makes it turn, because it wouldn't turn with all the other gears detached from it.
  24. Haha!! That's what I tell myself. 😃
  25. Rapid Auto Shipping joined the community
  26. Where are you located?
  27. Hi All, In a final push to get my 280z across the finish line and through a safety/registration for the summer after 7 years of garage bound ownership, but I've been thwarted by a stubbornly wiggly driver side rear wheel bearing. The rears had wheel bearing play that showed up in the original safety inspection. I've replaced the bearings and seals on both sides. The passenger side is fine, but the drivers side still has a lot of play even after managing to get the full max recommended 240 ft-lb torque into the stub axle nut. I took it apart again and noticed the inner bearing was able to be slid in an out of the hub by hand and on inspection there is some evidence of the outer race (of the old originally removed bearing) having spun in the hub. I confirmed the OD of the new (installed but not driven) and originally removed bearings that did have miles on them appear to be the same (to the 100th of a mm) I'm going to try to call some machine shops tomorrow to see if boring and sleeving is an option since strut assemblies are hard to come by. Does a bearing with the same inner race ID for the stub axle but a very slightly larger outer race diameter I can bore back to an interference fit without sleeving exist? Is there somewhere I could find replacement strut assemblies or something with a new or used hub I haven't managed to find yet? I imagine I could go full T3 coilovers or something like that that will provide a new hub, but I would far prefer to not to go down that pricey rabbit hole just yet. Any other ideas are greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  28. Yarb posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    That’s exactly what everyone needs to do.
  29. ZROT joined the community
  30. zbfpitt32 joined the community
  31. w3wilkes started following Darn Tire Jockeys
  32. w3wilkes posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    The last time I got tires I took the wheels off the car and went to the tire store. They did mount and balance (no outside weights), I took them home and put them back on the car. No issues.
  33. Last week
  34. For our Canadian friends... We appreciate it! Yes! Y'all brought back my favorite thread.
  35. We appreciate it! This whole album was good. You might also remember Hard to Laugh and She's So Young. Both had pretty solid airplay back in the day in Canada.
  36. You're welcome. I'm glad that my sketch was useful. And great work on the parts. Regarding the "unprofitable time" to make them, the $/hour rate you made is more than offset by the priceless feeling of accomplishment. Unless of course you don't have a day job. Lol
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