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So in the last pic, the part with rivet, lets call it the "hook". It is touching a bar just to the right. We'll call it the "drum catch". When the drum in the center w the spring rotates the "drum catch" locks into the ratchets on the drum. When it does that the "drum catch" moves down slightly. Then the "hook", which is the lock mechanism, can move over to prevent the "drum catch" from unlatching. I would make you some pictures but all my locks are at the platers. I just recently studied this mechanism as I went through mine and was working on refurbishment

sigh, i think i know what’s going on. the previous owner put a rivet on the lever here when it should look like this instead:

So before I go and dismantle the window/door etc, I have a question about how this is supposed to work. As it sits now, the door latches and opens fine. You can see the red arrow pointing at the mounting screw. This looks like it prevents the knob rod (green) and the keyhole tab (yellow) from moving downward. Is this expected? If the knob rod (green) was working as intended, would the blue part move as well? With the green/yellow parts in that position, are they in a door locked or door unlocked position? May be an obvious answer, but I thought I would ask to be 100% sure. I’m wondering if the previous owner did something crazy like weld it to keep it “unlocked” forever. Thanks in advance!

Take lots of pics for reference.

I haven’t done that yet. I was going to try what I could before going down that rabbit hole. Looks like I may have to?

Have you removed the entire mechanism and performed a deep clean along with lubricants?

I rotated the latch so it’s facing directly south. I tried with all my might to lock downwards, but it would just not move. I haven’t yet fabbed something but I did also try a wrench to push down and it would just not budge. I wonder what I’m missing here. Video for reference: IMG_7463.mov

I had forgotten about that. Reminded me that you have to lock the door with the key from the outside after you close it, if you want to lock it and leave it. Of course, based on the above. The knob is only for locking yourself in. I used the knob to work the mechanism free becuase I was afraid that I would break the key.

This is also super helpful. I will report back when I get some time to lock/force that lever. Thank you!

The doors will not lock unless the door latch is latched. In other words they won't lock unless the door is shut or you manually rotate the door latch to the locked position

This is super helpful. I’ll give that a shot! Thank you! It is currently unlocked so I would guess I could fab something and press down hard.

I remember the lock mechanism on my 76 being almost impossible to move even with the knob and cylinder attached correctly. It might be that you just need to get a better grip on the part that the knob rod attaches to and pull harder. Might be worthwhile to fabricate a new rod and attach it to give you something to pull and push on. With lubrication and some manual working the mechanism on mine eventually loosened up. The car had sat for many years before I got it.

I purchased a 240z that had the knob rod and key cylinders deleted. I thought I could put in an actuator to trigger the “lock”, but I think I’m missing something or maybe the key cylinders is a required part of the lock working? To be clear, there’s no vertical knob rod ie no #11, #2 per the diagram. When I reach inside the door to wiggle what I think the knob rod is connected to, it just moves up and down a little bit and as far as I can tell, there’s no way to lock the door that way either. Any help would be appreciated! Please let me know if I can provide more information. Thank you!

After adjusting the valve lash a couple times, I timed the distributor which was really close. I tried my hand at tuning the carbs. This video VHS and flowmeter came with the car. I backed everything off, but still was getting a 1,000 rpm idle. Seemed a bit high. I would put the flow gauge on the front carb and adjust it so the ball was in the middle. Then go to the rear carb, the ball was way high, no way to back down the idle screws anymore. I figured there must be a vacuum leak somewhere. I squirted brake clean around but didn't make any noticeable difference. I couldn't get them the same. The next day, while fiddling around with it, I grabbed my broken stethoscope, and started poking 1 of the hoses around when whaaam! There it is. The rear carb is leaking around the throttle shaft. These carbs were just done by ZTherapy 2 or 3 years before the car was parked some 22 years ago. I had a chat with them, boxed them up, and they are now in their hands. I hope it's an easy fix.....

Excellent!! Im hoping I'm only a couple of weeks behind you

@SteveJ Thank you sir!

Time to put gas in it and build fuel and oil pressure. As I was siphoning gas into the tank, I decided to check the fuel gauge, turned the key, and watched my oil pressure gauge slowly rise. The fuel gauge did nothing. After freaking out a little bit thinking did I mix up the wires somewhere? Got my spare gauges out and the connectors on the back are the same, but the oil pressure/temp gauge has 4 wires instead of the 3 wires going to the amp/fuel gauge. So I stuck my head up behind the dash with a light and saw they were connected correctly. I unhooked my oil pressure wire at the engine and now I had no oil pressure showing. This car came with a NOS oil gauge press sending unit that I had installed. I put my original sending unit back on and now the gauge zeroed when I turned the key. I moved the connectors a bit at the tank, now my fuel gauge worked. The NOS gauge I had is part #25078-32200. Found out that's not for this car, maybe for a 280z. If anyone needs it, I don't. I removed the spark plugs, the valve cover and cranked the engine over. No oil getting to the cam oiler, which is a Michael Yoes upgrade. I did a little research here and someone mentioned galley plugs. That's the first I've ever heard of them. Were they removed and if so were they replaced? I don't know. I called my machinist who did the block and asked him if he removed the galley plugs. He said, "of course I did! it's standard procedure!" I asked him if he replaced them, "Of course not, that's the assemblers job!" Oh no! I don't remember anything about galley plugs, did they come in my kit? So, After a little more research I found out there are 2 galley plugs, 1 in front, 1 in back. I found a picture I took of assembly, the timing chain, and aha! there's a galley plug in it. Found a picture of the back and the plug is there. They were never removed, thank God! I did not want to pull the engine again. So, I found a great tip here, which was to remove the oil filter. Get a piece of clear hose and stick it in the hole to the galley and shove it as far forward as it will go. Get a small funnel, and fill it with oil until no more oil will go in. I did that, re-installed the filter, and the valve cover and cranked it over. I immediately felt a change, I had oil pressure, my pressure gauge went up. I guess I had to prime the pump. Next I took a vacuum pump and sucked fuel from the tank to the filter. I removed the fuel pump and connected a hose to it into a jug of gas. Back filled it with gas and let it soak in a bit, then pumped with my hand. I had gas squirting out in force! Reinstalled the fuel pump. Cranked it over a bit until I had gas in the carbs. Got some distilled water and started filling my radiator. Used just water because I didn't want antifreeze everywhere when I found the hose clamps I forgot to tighten. Turns out, the water pump seal had dried up and water came pouring out that little hole. Several day later, which was only 2 weeks ago as of this writing, I get my new Aisin water pump from Rockauto and install it. Fill up the radiator, no leaks. It's time! I turned the key and It didn't even make 1 revolution and fired right up! Wow! It started revving up so I shut it right down. My linkages needed adjusted. Got the idle down and after adjusting the clutch a bit, drove this thing out of my shop on it's own power. Yahooo!

Black/yellow - 12VDC switched from key in START. Black/white - 12VDC switched from ignition relay. The ignition relay coil is energized by the key in ON.

Hi gents I'm redoing the wiring harness in my Z and hope someone could help. I've come across these wires - which used to connect to the ECU. Here's what I know Green -> goes to the fuel pump Red/White -> 12V from the battery The two that I don't know are the black/white and black/yellow. From this diagram it looks like the black/yellow goes to the ignition switch among other place and the white goes to the ignition relay and the "IG" part of the fuse box. So would these be 12V switched? I am a bit confused. I've attached photos of the wires themselves as well as the part of the diagram where they are. Any help would be wonderful! Thank you Jan

Any time! LOL

Thanks everyone. I’ve identified #4 as p/n 30501-K0401. Still available through Nissan. Should have it by Friday. Still available since it Fits later model cars and trucks. I’m running the T5 transmission from a 83 ZX 280et. I’ll report back once everything comes in. Thanks for the help. Much appreciated.

Here's an old post from TerrapinZ with good measurements. Just noticed that posts don't have numbers anymore. Bummer. It's about 1/3 down page 12 if the link doesn't take you directly there.

@mayolives Thanks my friend! Now I need to find the Nissan P/N.

@Patcon Do you know where I can find a listing of the collar lengths?