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I'm sad just reading this. What a beautiful car! I'm certainly no expert, but it looks like a car that would do well on BAT to me.

Gents, Looks like I might have to put up my Z for sale and I'm curious to know if there's a good market for the early-series Z cars right now. Mine is a 1971 model with parts from 1970 and 1971. Most of you know the history of my car but in a nutshell it was completely sandblasted and restored from the frame. Serial numbers do not match as the original owner let the car freeze while it was in storage. I've had the car since I was in high school (a looooong time ago). I bought it from the father of the original owner, Bob Gilder (pro golfer). Bob used the car when he was just getting started as a newlywed in the PGA. He used to drive the car to tournaments and I might be able to dig out a few photos of him pulling clubs out of the back of the car. Car was originally silver. Engine is a balanced/blueprinted L28 from Rebello and the carbs are triple Mikuni's with separate air cleaners. This was the first engine to have the triple weber setup from Steve at Ztherapy. Unfortunately it does not have the triple SU's as Steve kept those for his own projects. Suspension is adjustable Tokico's and matching springs. Pretty much everything else is stock except for the color of course. It does have sway bars installed. Dash is a new one from Les Cannaday when he was building the early reproductions that Nissan put together. Wheels are VTO classic 8's wrapped with tires that are only a few years old. Right now she's sitting covered in a storage unit and I just don't have the space to keep her at home. Windshield is the last remaining unit that we found in Nissan's inventory. All other glass is original, including the hatch with vertical defrosters (a 1970 model leftover when it was assembled). I have a Nismo fuel pump and bracket that has not yet been installed. Plenty of books, manuals, microfiche, and extra goodies will come with the deal. Not many things wrong, but there are a few glitches. The brake fluid distribution valve could use a rebuild. Some brake fluid dripped onto the rail under the distribution valve caused the paint to peel a bit. The MSA 6-1 headers get very hot and it affects the braking, I would think new owner should have the headers removed and coated or covered to prevent this (or use a higher temp brake fluid). There is a small paint bubble near the fuel filler that I have not yet looked into. Headlight cones were painted after the main car was done so the paint color is slightly different (body guy wasn't able to match the color exactly). Cold starts after sitting for months can sometimes take a few times, but she starts and drives without issue. Engine sounds great and does not leak any oil. Entire car is pristine and needs more daily attention than I've been giving her... I would consider her a stock resto-mod. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions or just comment here. Not sure if it would pull more value with a direct sale or if I should even consider putting her up on BAT. Thanks guys! Mike

So this is not the factory setup for a 71? Does it have Dave Irwin's internal regulator modification?

The problem is that I don't see the results of the tests I suggested you do.

I'd start with a new battery and retest. I suspect the alternator or voltage regulator is bad, too. It may be as simple as overworking the alt. while trying to charge a battery that won't take a charge.

Hi all - I took the spring-loaded seat hinge apart to re-grease it since it was making a squeak noise when I moved in the seat (the arm that sits between the seat back and bottom that does not contain the angle adjusting hinge) and after re-assembling it, the hinge flops around. Does the spring need to be spun to get tensioned before re-assembly? If so, how is that done?

Yeah, weird. Another example of the original wiring diagram for the early cars falling short of accurate. The whole reason I started this journey! And I think I'm approaching the end. The mistakes being uncovered up are becoming less severe and less frequent. I'll have the new rev out soon. Changes to the horn system, some power distribution stuff (grounding scheme), and of course, the condensers.

Cool. And those wheels did clean up nice!

I pulled the alternator this morning (wearing my osha white safety socks - those who have followed my Z build will understand) and plan on taking it to get tested this afternoon. None of my connections were lose or corroded. No matter what I do the amperage never changes or moves with revs and the battery will NOT read more than 12.3 volts.

They are really aluminum. My 911 has factory aluminum lug nuts. They are a bit of a pain as you need a cushioned socket to keep from damaging them and no air tool, ever. They cleaned up pretty good. I may get them polished and checked for roundness.

You're welcome. This is strange indeed. The images I posted came from a parts book CD I purchased from Courtesy Nissan about 15 years ago. When I picked up #957 last year it came with a two volume original 1970 FSM set. The body and chassis volume is dated November 1, 1969. Strangely the L20A, L24 engine volume is not dated, but it does show the early version of the EE-71 diagram with only one condenser and no mention of other engine electrical condensers. With #957 I also got one of the 1997 reprints (for the N.A. Vintage Zed program) of a 1970 FSM as a single volume. Even that one shows only the one condenser in the EE section.

Are the lug nuts really aluminum? Really? Was that a thing paired with really light wheels? I would use those on the track and check them often, but sounds sketchy to run aluminum nuts on the street.

Fingers crossed! So the old dead cap either went open circuit, or shorted internally. That style of cap (known as an aluminum electrolytic) has been known to go either way. If it went short, the clock wouldn't run at all. If it went totally open, the clock might work, or might not. Sounds like yours did just that. Hope you're good from here! Too bad about the other clock though. Probably nothing can be done with that one unless you find NOS of the xtal and/or the control chip.

Thanks for the help. I have an incomplete version of the 1970 FSM, but I've been through the EE section. It don't think it shows all the condensers. For example, the circuit diagram you posted only showed the condenser mounted on the distributor. They didn't include the one on the coil attached to the positive side (crudely grafted onto the the diagram below): And they didn't show how the tach connects! At least not until 1972, and it was still cryptic then!

The 240Z engine is a remarkably simple and well-built device... except for the emissions control system. The latter is a train-wreck, typical of the auto industry's late-1960's, analogue-era, pre-ECU/fuel injection, band-aid solutions. The problem was not unique to Nissan. Whether it was the USA, the UK, Italy, France, Japan -- they were universally bad. Why? Because the technology available to the industry that was 'ready for prime time' (i.e. wouldn't get the manufacturer sued for incompetence) was nothing better than a lash-up. In the end, the only answer proved to be a combination of electronic fuel injection + computer control. It took almost 10 years to get there. In Panama, you are re-living the 1970 Los Angeles nightmare -- high temperatures + traffic jams + complicated, ineffective smog equipment technology. Plus -- as I mentioned in an earlier post -- the pssibility that your local gas may be substandard. My advice: 1) Remove all of the emission control equipment; 2) Run the tank dry and then fill up at the biggest, brand-name gas station in downtown; 3) Place your trust in a top-quality auto shop that has a lead mechanic who has proven credentials with carburetors (preferably SU carburetors); 4) Only if steps 1, 2 and 3 can't get the engine running properly should you consider removing the cylinder head.

Fortunate to find an early antenna with the bullet tip. The Nut wasn’t available. Any help will be much appreciated.

@Captain Obvious Check out the engine electrical section of the L24 engine FSM for info on the distributor condenser, page EE-28, 29, 30. There is a circuit diagram and other info.

I picked up an old (1973) set of minilte 14" wheels. They are in ok shape but the guy only had 13 lug nuts. The lugnuts are very light (aluminum) and fit the wheels. Has anyone ever seen lugs like these? I found a minilite website and I plan on contacting them, but thought I would ask here too. I think it would be nice to have this style lug nut. The guy also had this dual weber setup. If anyone is interested, let me know. The guy is local, super nice, and is trying to get rid of some old stuff. I have no interest in it but happy to help if someone needs it.

I hope you strapped them down to the headlight scoop for the drive, although I think you'll need to wait a while before opening them.

My .02 cents on new alternators. Have it tested before you leave the parts store. I bought one and it blew the glass fuses, maybe not all of them but the car wouldn't crank and my gauges went limp. Ask the guys on here and found out it was "back charging"? Guys at the store were cocky but got alot nicer after it failed their test. Learned something new that day. 🙃

I will report back to what I am getting out of these wires later this evening. I will also double check the connections and clean all terminals carefully. I will inspect all wires for fraying and damage. I may have a spare MSA alternator in my parts bin. I could just swap that in to see if I get a different result. Car has never really had any real electrical issue since I purchased it in 2008. Had a light stalk issue once, but that turned out to be a bad connection that Dave helped me troubleshoot. Good times.

There is no lamp on a 71. On the original 71 alternator, it would be a field wire and alternator neutral on the T plug going to the external VR. Since the car is modified, the field wire is jumpered to the ignition wire, and the neutral wire is jumpered to the battery wire.

I don't know 1971 but on a 1976 the charge lamp lights when the key is turned on aa a circuit and bulb check. It grounds through the alternator edit- external regulator then turns off when charging exceeds battery voltage. It should be battery voltage with the key on and the plug unplugged.

The signal wire should have battery voltage. The ignition wire should have no voltage with the key in OFF, and it should have battery voltage with the key in ON.

Thanks, and that is interesting. Google Translate serves its purpose well. Is there a Japanese Wikipedia? Any thoughts on where that "new" N42 casting comes/came from? There is a disconnect between ATK Vege (which seems to be a combined company, looking at the logos and the descriptions) and the KSS that comes up through that Japanese ATK link. 1936 versus 2003. North America versus Japan. From the web pages - https://atkvege.com/about-atkvege/ About ATKVegeATK North America is the largest private label Crate Engine Remanufacturer in North America. Partnered with our sister company, VEGE de Mexico, ATK VEGE has a history of Remanufacturing that dates back to 1936. https://atk.co.jp/company/ name KSS Co., Ltd. Representative President and CEO Keiji Okawa Established August 2003 Capital 3 million yen