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Yes it is. 918 Orange is the new Black. Lol

Awesome. Thanks!! And your prolific use of pics and documentation has helped me on numerous occasions. Keep up the good work!! I'm currently working on a set of carb air cleaner attachment hardware stuff based on a sketch of yours from years ago. 😊

Colour matching is really important.😎

Hey CO, #6521 did originally have a condenser in all four locations listed above. Funny that two of your four pics above are of my car. The pic above with no condenser on the alternator, was from about 10 years ago when I pulled it to do some engine detailing. Prior to the detailing it did have a condenser there, but it was not connected. At the time I just left if off when I re-assembled alternator. Here's a before & after pic. Mystery solved, Lol.

ALSO, the original painted block has no paint on the waterplugs! (AND many other contact points, see pic in above reply) Who sees more differences.. (Besides the sensor welded stud near the sparkplug 5 hole.)

I asked myself if it's normal that there is paint within the oilfilter cavity, but my 1979 N42 has it also.. BUT.. There should NOT be any paint on the contact surface of the oilcardridge !! 😀 so that new engine is a fake?? Blue paintwork also does not look as if it's 40+ years old! (I got a new painted block in my garage under a cover and was painted new in 1990.. it does not look that fresh! AND It was under a thick cover all these years! )

Here a pic of my euro N42 head and N42 engineblock.. (Year is 1979.) @Zed Head I often see those gasket and oilseal sets for the L24-L28 engines, they have round, square and diamond shaped exhaust outlets so i'm not surprised to see those round ones. (The diamond called one is a hexagonal exhaustport.)

Looks like N42 to me. I might be incorrect

I don't understand what's weird about the exhaust ports? I thought they went round with the 280Z where earlier cars had rectangular exhaust ports.

Went to Cars & Coffee in Steveston BC this morning, and met up with about a dozen members of the local Zed club I belong to. It was110 km from my house, so it was a great drive too. After the cars & coffee we did a scenic group drive for breakfast to a local Pub for the $5.99 special. Lol. Sadly this the last weekend they will be open, as they are closing after 130 years of service. Sometimes "progress" sucks, the Buck & Ear will be missed. On the way home I also stopped at my favorite, close to me, craft brewery. For some reason I was attracted to this six pack? I think this Dutch Pale Ale is my new go to beer. Lol. And it tastes good too.

North South it’s still Carolina!!😂

Well that's no fun!

I believe they're in North Carolina and Oklahoma. My last header was done in OK

A few months ago, I created a differential cover to go with the KAAZ LSD I installed last year. I finally got around to installing the cover and as fast as I filled it, the gear lube leaked out. I'll pull the cover and see if I can figure out what I did wrong but for now, I'm going back to the original cover for now. I'm guessing there is a problem with the mating surface. I'm not necessarily posting for advise as much as I need to vent. Hopefully my other little projects worked out better so I can get my Z back on the road. Other projects I'm finishing up include a freshly rebuilt 5-speed, oil pan gasket to stop the oil leaks (I hope), DIY engine splash shield, and fabricating plastic inner fender covers.

Car was tested and leak down test was accomplished. Drove 30 minutes with no pcv valve connected and no thermostat to avoid engine temperature rising got stucked in short traffic. Car still got some rough idle when getting out of traffic until temperature went back to normal. Parked the car and all plugs were burning ok. So this could be a vapor lock or percolation problem. Leak down and compression test got good results. Do you still think i need to take the head out? He did blocked the fuel return line as i have an airtex 8012S electric pump installed and says no need to have that line opened.

Jet Hot coatings in SC.

Thanks @Patcon I had not seen that before. It's on order. If heat is a problem maybe we can get a 2fer😃

Since you're in experimentation mode and you have fabricating skills, you might remove the factory mount and fab up a new mount that gives the desired angle. It wouldn't need to be super strong or made for permanence if you're only evaluating cruising speed. Keep the strap in place in case of breakage. It could be a solid mount. If the angle is perfect but the vibration is the same, then you can start looking elsewhere. The RTz mount either gives a certain angle with the GM mount, or it gives a range of angles in use with the snubber, as the diff nose moves up and down. The GM version is an actual mount, the snubber version is essentially a solid strap. p.s. have you considered mounting a camera under the car to see what the diff nose is doing while driving? Maybe something is moving. Or, looking back at your pictures of the crossmembers, why don't you just shim the crossmember mount downward with some washers. Perfect the angle, take it for a drive. then you'll know if you should go further.

I did this Z Car Depot IncCarburetor Return Spring Bracket Plate Custom 240ZStainless steel plate that mounts under the intake for attaching the carburetor return springs on Datsun 240Z. This plate bolts to the original intake and allows for 2 spring clips but offers mini...I also do not have coated headers. That may end up being an issue but I will deal with later if it is

Probably a lot more info at hybrid Z Zedhead or Grannyknot are probably more familiar with how to find it there

Been looking at RT mount info. Found this: https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMount.html If I were to go this route, the mount underneath the differential would have to be removed completely. There is also question as to whether the RT bracket and this mount would fit the car without modification. Apparently, it is likely that the bolt for the mount to the bracket will interfere with part of the handbrake linkage. Though, there is a possibility that the mount has 3 mounting holes, and if so, one could use the two outside ones instead of the middle one and solve that issue. I can find a little bit of info about people addressing this problem, but I have not found conclusive proof that unmodified cars have this issue. I'd like to get some confirmation of that. Otherwise, I feel like I am missing something.

Thanks Zed. I will add condensers and publish a new revision to the diagram shortly!

I did not. Was going to wait and see if there was going to be a problem with the heat.

Sounds like your fuel pump relay is bad. Send me a pm.

Update: My 280Z will not start. I am getting 0 PSIG on the fuel pressure gauge on the fuel oil supply line. I was able to source a replacement fuel damper and plumbed up everything. Troubleshooting per the Fuel Injection and Factory Service Manual led me to find the following: All wiring connections are as intended - I did not find any plugs or harnesses disconnected. The fuel pump is not getting power when I start the car. No voltage is present at the fuel pump across the power and ground terminals when the key is in the "On" position. No voltage is present at the wiring harness under the passenger seat at the green wire and black ground when the key is in the "On" position. The fuel pump relay clicks when I try to start the car. The fuel pump operates when I run a direct line from the positive battery terminal to the pump. All of troubleshooting checks from the "Engine won't Start" section of the Fuel Injection Bible pass and my efforts lead to quote "try a different ECU." I was able to source a second ECU on eBay, but it yields the same result. My taillights and license plate lights do not work (not getting power). Running a separate ground wire from the fuel pump negative terminal to a chassis ground does not resolve the no starting condition. Based on my findings above, I am not sure what my issue is or to diagnose why I am not getting any power to the pump. Anyone have a similar problem and can diagnose? I thought maybe it was a bad ground, but wouldn't the separate ground wire have resolved the problem? From what I understand, the main ground that the fuel pump, taillights, etc. are connected to requires removal of the gas tank to access. I was hoping to avoid this, but if it is my next step, so be it. Also, when the previous damper failed, it did drip gasoline on to the pump and terminals. This is because on 1976 280Zs, the damper is above the pump and the whole kit (damper, pump, hoses, wiring) is mounted to an L shaped bracket that is mounted with three screws to the chassis. This was changed in 1977 and 1978 models to a flat plate that mounts to the chassis but places the damper and pump side-by-side. I'm guessing this was an improvement that would have reduced the possibility of a failed damper leaking fuel onto the pump. Could that wetting of the pump terminals have ruined my ground wire or power wire to the pump? How likely is it that my remanufactured aftermarket ECU and the eBay replacement (which was started to be from a 1976 2+2 4 speed, just like mine) are both bad and presenting the same exact issue?