Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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- 7 replies
- 2.3k views
found some much older threads about this, but thought i would check for some fresh advice. My 70 240Z ammeter is either jumping around between 0 and 45 or its pretty much pegged out. when its pegged out my interior lighting is nice and bright, but the headlights don't seem any different. and it always runs the same. I've just replaced the voltage regulator with a unit from the z-store a few months ago, because i was getting 20V when i was checking the blinker wiring. Now the battery isn't holding a charge ( i'll take it down to be tested tomorrow ) - could that be causing my problems? i checked the voltage at the alternator and it was about 12.8V at idle. thanks, K…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I'm going to use this diagram to wire in a new to the car fuel pump but I'm not sure what size of fuses to use. I would appreciate recomendations from those who have a handle on the theory, I'm a practical guy. Thanks, Chris
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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Hi, so I just finished rebuilding the engine on my 1973 240z and it turns over, but no start. Its getting air and fuel so it seems logical the only reason its not starting is the spark. My car has an MSD blaster 2 coil and an e12-80 module. We used the multimeter and determined that both the positive and negative side on the coil are getting around 12v, is this right?? Same thing goes for the b and c on the module. I am assuming the negative is supposed to be grounded, so am I missing a connection on the wiring harness? Or is the module messed up? Thanks for the help! I have it hooked up like this diagram:
Last reply by yoshi_w, -
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Can someone tell me which wire they used for the constant power? Before I tap a wire not in the general area in where the stereo sits, I was wondering which wire other Z owners were using.
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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So... I'm looking over the wiring diagram trying to figure out the cleanest way to get an always hot voltage line to my new radio install and I see these on the wiring diagram: Anyone know what these connections are all about? I went to the garage to see if they really exist, and they did (at least on my 77 they did). They are present but unused and are located above the passenger's right knee above the relay bracket. Lo-n-behold, one of them is hot at all times just like the diagram says it should be. So what's the deal? Was that some option that I don't have? Was there a factory electric fan installed in some cars? It's on the wiring diagrams for 76, 77 and 78. …
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 6 replies
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Hello, I just bought a 1975 280Z. The starter works when I jump it, but not when I turn the key (ignition). I verified the is no power coming from the wire (connected to the starter) that is supposed to turn the starter on. Also, the fuel pump turns on and pumps fuel, I hear a cylinder under the clove box operating. All fuses are not blown and the two fusible links are hard wired. Any ideas of what might be bad or what I can check up stream from the starter starting wire that might be bad? Thanks, Robert
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 4 replies
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Hi guys I need some help here, I have a 77 280z and I just recently noticed that not all of the pins on my ecu match the ports on the harness connector, the part number on the ecu is A11-601 but why am I missing connections?
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 14 replies
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I have been slowly bringing my 1970 240Z back from the depths of despair where its previous owner left it and now have it running and stopping well. One area that continues to be a challenge is the flashing lights at the corners, as not all of them do. Here's the situation at present: Brake lights work both sides Running lights work all corners and front and back Head lights work Back up lights work Turn signals- Left (driver side) work both front and back, and the little clicker on top of the flasher makes a clicky noise. The green tach light illuminates as expected. Right (pass side) only the front works, the back doesn't, and there's no clicky noise from the clicker on…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 0 replies
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Hi All, I'm looking for as simple as possible alternator for my '73 240z race car. I know Motorsport Auto (The Z Store) has one at a reasonable price, (Motorsport! SALE! 60-Amp Alternator Upgrade Kit, 70-73 240Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts) which I will order it this week if I can't find another, but I'm hoping I can pick one up locally and install it right away. Anyone know what model Bosch it is that they use? Or, one that I can just bolt in with the same brackets and use one wire to the batter? Thanks Bill Oakes
Last reply by Bill.Oakes, -
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Hi. Kind of hesitant to post this cause it seems rather dumb but . . . I'm restoring a 1970 car. Was the t/s flasher secured with any kind of mount? When I bought my car the flasher was just stuffed up into the pedal box area without any kind of mounting. Haven't been able to find any references or drawings. If anyone has a pic showing the stock mount/bracket that would be very appreciated. Thanks for the help.
Last reply by chuck r, -
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Hello, ZCar guys, I have a copy of the service manual that I want to post a copy of, how do I do it ? This is the manual that allows you to test and repair the ignition system for the 260Z and maybe the early 280Z. Note, the other Service Manuals do not have this testing info, they use the ultra rare test box(Dealer only), not how to test the system with a mulitmeter or O scope....This is the reason at first that I was going to change the 260Z system for the later 280ZX system....Now I may not have to....
Last reply by DRBall, -
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- 4.1k views
This post is mostly for archive searchers like myself, I couldn't find the size of battery I needed so pm Steve to get the answer. 24C is the OEM configuration. But if you want the POS terminal out from under the access lid, then get a 24F. Same size but poles are reversed. Chris
Last reply by pbarcher,
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