Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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- 4 replies
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I have researched threads here on what battery voltage should be and now I am more confused than before. I have a 77 280. We all know it is externally regulated. I get 13.76 volts at the battery during idle. Now where I get confused is when you increase the engine rpm's shouldn't the battery voltage also increase? Iv'e read here that it should be 13.8 at 2500 rpms and I also read here where it should be 14.7 at 2500 rpm's. Which is correct? My battery holds pretty steady at 13.7 volts through out the rpm band, no changes. Help me understand. Thanks
Last reply by rcb280z, -
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- 8 replies
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Hey guys, I posted a while back about the alternator upgrade that the PO had done and based on blue's tech tips, the wiring for the externally regulated alternator was wrong but the car was running fine. Based on blues diagrams, the PO had jumpered wires 5 and 6 from the alt. harness together where blue said numbers 5 and 1. So i reverted back to the way it was originally and now I am overcharging, showing about 14.9-15.1 volts, is running that much voltage going to cause damage? I know the stock voltage is supposed to be 13.8-14.4
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I have a 76 280z with a Z specialties one wire alternator. When driving the car with no other electrical load, sometimes it will chugg/hesitate at around 2500 rpm, if I stomp on the gas it stops the hesitation. But when the headlights or the blower fan is on, it wont behave like this. Could this be a bad connection somewhere? EDIT: Another explanation I could think of is with the other electrical load, the temp rises to about the middle of the gage because of the increased load on the alternator. The temp sensor is new. Could the increase in temp make it run leaner if it was hesitating from running rich?
Last reply by llouie, -
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Hi guys. I've searched the forum and I cannot find a straight forward question as to a source/manufacture of an OEM equivalent ignition coil for a stock 1971 (Series 2) 240Z with points. Please do not suggest switching to an electronic ignition because it's not going to happen. I am keeping my points. It needs to look and perform like stock. I will be using it with a NOS Nissan ballast resistor. It can be a little hot but nothing that is going to negatively affect the rest of my electrical system. Thanks, Matt
Last reply by marvelous240Z, -
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Hey folks. I bought my car with a pertronix ignition installed, which eventually failed. I converted it back to points and have been running it that way all winter long. Anyway, the ballast resistor was removed from the car since its not needed in electronic ignition setup. My car still does not have one.. Is this going to ruin the coil? If so, how would I hook one up. I'm not sure how its supposed to be wired.
Last reply by mlc240z, -
- 4 replies
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It's such a simple question... but when I bought my car, a 1971 240Z, the previous owner had already started taking it apart including the rear tail lights and lens structures.... The car is painted and I am now putting it back together. Today I cleaned up all the bulbs and checked the sockets. I know which two bulbs are the brake lights... I know which bulb is the backup light.... but I don't know where to place three of them into the lens structure... Are the brake lights the top two sockets? Is the turn signal on the bottom? I would have a clue if one of the lenses was "amber" but all three are red like the picture... Can someone with a 1971 240 Z tell me what part is …
Last reply by professor229, -
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I have always had a partially sketchy tach. Now let me say that my tach works. Most of the time anyway. If I never rev my car past 5500rpm it would be a perfect tach. However, when I rev past 5500 rpm my tach sort of goes on strike. This was not a problem with my original motor (L24) as I never really pushed it that hard, as there was not really that much power past 6000 to be had. So it was a non issue for as long as I had the car. Below 5500 rpm it is dead reliable and smooth. Now fast forward to a higher revving L28, that likes to live between 3500-6500 rpm and now I have a tach I canont trust beyond 5000 rpm really. So my quandry is this. I have a dash cap on…
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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Hi, I've got a 1972 240z that I've been refreshing and I decided to change the alternator. I bought a duralast alternator from autozone and am having trouble with the wiring. Installed the alternator and messed up the wiring somehow. after rewiring it I reconnected the battery and the fusible link burned up. I've got a new one from MSA and want to make sure my wiring is correct before I burn it up as well. I have used the search function but couldn't find anything clear enough. I also looked the the FSM and couldn't make heads or tails of the wiring diagrams. I am a complete electrical noob and would appreciate some help. Here are a few pictures of what I'm working wi…
Last reply by MKI4EVA, -
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Hey guys. Just wondering how much of a difference those who have swapped their alternators to larger (60 Amp), internally regulated units saw in their cars? I run a Retrosound stereo on its built in amplifier (20 watts x 4 RMS/ 40 watts peak x 4 channels) and a fairly heavily updated sound Kenwood sound system. There are probably other electrical upgrades, I'm guessing headlamps and other misc stuff but I myself didn't change any of that. Its on a '73, so I'm aware I'll have to either disconnect the FP relay or rewire to the ignition. Not sure how to do that, but if I (or my dad, who specializes in car electronics) somehow can't figure that out I know where to come
Last reply by SteveJ, -
Okay, before I go into detail of my new F.I. issue I'm posting a question: Anyone with the so called "ecu float" issue, can you describe symptom(s) or reason(s) you believe that is what's happening.
Last reply by rcb280z, -
- 8 replies
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Anyone have for a production date 5/77 280 the engine room and F.I. harness's? I have an add in the classifieds also on this. I know the "engine room" harness will work from 8/76 - 7/77. Part number 24012-N4800. F.I. harness: 8/76 - 7/77 part number 24011-N4700. If you do PM me with price. Thanks. Oh and prefer no cuts or missing connectors. I know I'm asking a lot here. If half of them out there are anything like mine the are very brittle!
Last reply by rcb280z, -
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Guys: I am working on the wipers on my Z and striking out big time. Problem is this: the Z has been rewired with a "Painless" - there's a laugh - wiring harness. It has one wiper power feed. I'm using a 280Z combo switch. I have searched but can't get them to work. From what I've been able to find, the wires are as follows: Blue/White & Blue/Red = Windshield washer Yellow/Green = Wiper power feed Red/Blue = High Speed Yellow/Black = Low Speed Blue/Yellow = Intermittent Black = Ground I have the Painless wiper power feed running to the Yellow/Green wire, but it blows the fuse as soon as I turn it on. Would someone be willing to set me straight on how to wire thi…
Last reply by SteveJ,
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