Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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- 2 replies
- 1.7k views
I've decided to break down and get an Optima battery for my 73Z. There are two sizes that will fit. The 25 and the 34. What do you guys think would be the best one to get?
Last reply by Darrel, -
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- 3 replies
- 1.5k views
installed new Pertronex ignitor and coil in 1971 240 works great but, tach drops off at 4000 rpm when engine revs higher. Jumps up to 4000 rpm when revs drop below 4000. do I need another resistor and where do I get it?
Last reply by bpilati, -
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- 1.9k views
Ok so i know that this has been gone over lots. but i am stuck the car is almost done but i have no head lights and no turn lights. hold on i will tell you where i am i fixed the combo switch i now have power through the switch wipers work park lights work. hazard lights work. i have no power at the turn switch so no turn lights. power at all the fuses. not sure what i expect just thought i would share my story and see if any one can help.
Last reply by philbar73, -
- 6 replies
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Bought a 1971 240Z manufactured in August.... starting was difficult and to make a long story short, the switch does not make contact when the key is turned to "start" meaning no power to the coil.... I need a new switch. Looked at all of them from several suppliers and they are ALL wrong. So I pulled the switch to see if I could find the correct parts number on it.. no such luck (did find an HO 60) but??? I did order a switch for a 1970 240Z and took a photo of it next to my bad switch... both are five terminal... the one on the right is larger (the new one) and mine is a smaller diameter with only one connecting screw... The entire key assembly is a Kanto Seiki KV-3....…
Last reply by 280~Master, -
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- 1.1k views
Anyone know if the tach and the speedo from a 260Z will work in a 77 280Z? Without any mods.
Last reply by rcb280z, -
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- 2k views
for a 2.8L SU / Mallory Unilite combo. Is this a worthwhile upgrade ? ...some say 'driveability' improves, others less enthusiastic. Have orig 260Z alternator (50A I think) will this need upgrading as well ?. Any special coil requirement ? - Thanks.
Last reply by gnosez, -
- 6 replies
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77 280z 2 seater, I recently did a distributor upgrade, bypassing the voltage regulator and my car was running much better, however Ive noticed an as issue my car has been having a few times and it is becoming more frequent. whenever i put a strain on my battery (such as turning the lights on), my voltage drops to 0 lights turn off, nothing comes on, however, my car still turns over and starts, after which everything works fine, but its charging at 16 volts with the charge light on like the bat is disconnected, then when i stop, turn everything off, and remove the load, the bat reads 12 volts and everything seems fine, until i put a load on it again (sometimes even a tiny…
Last reply by ZCurves, -
- 4 replies
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Okay, it took a few hours, but the first analysis is done. I built up a good library of Visio 2003 objects to make my next subject go a little easier. It was a good learning experience, too. I hope this helps someone. Hazard Lights - Brake Lights - Turn Signal Circuit Analysis
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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- 1.2k views
I haven't added much to my blog in the last week. I just documented my start on the effort to create enhanced drawings of the 240Z circuits. Taking Shape | Fiddling With Z Cars
Last reply by rcb280z, -
- 9 replies
- 2.1k views
There have been some great posts on getting the dome light to work, but I haven't found one that addresses no power to the dome light. I bought new door switches and, before I reconnected the dome light harness, I checked the voltage on the positive connection on the main harness next to the side window (which should be on at all times). Nothing, no power. Assuming something is shorted or cut somewhere (fuse looks good). My gauge lights work fine, so does the map light. Is there a way to check the continuity on the positive lead from the dash to the dome light? If so, where would be a good spot up front to hook my lead up to from my meter to test continuity to my do…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 9 replies
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Made a mistake in my first post. Original and corrections shown below. Sorry for the messy post. Basically what I've found is that both of the two popular alternator conversion instructions will allow the alternator to charge, internally regulated, but they both leave loose ends for other components in the 1976 280Z. I am new to this site but thought I would share something I found out about upgrading to a 1979 ZX alternator on a 1976 280Z. Using the atlanticz.com instructions - http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html - the brake warning lamp check relay will be "hot" all the time, even with the key off, since it is spliced off of the S line …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 4 replies
- 1.2k views
I was driving today in my '78 280Z and all was well, but after I briefly switched on the hazards, the indicator switch no longer works. Pressing the hazard button still makes the lights blink, and the headlight dip still works so the stalk itself is still functional... Fuses seemed fine as well. I'm guessing it will be something simple and silly, but does anyone have any idea what would be causing this? Thanks
Last reply by EScanlon,
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