Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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- 7 replies
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73 240 auto... the problem is with the car off I can turn the light switch on and the fuel pump turns on. The other issue is all lights not switched (gauges, side marker, fog, tail etc) come on without turning them on. The headlights work properly with the switch. So basically I have to run with all acc lights on when car is running. Has anyone ever heard of something like this? I've searched for shorts/grounds etc etc can't find any obvious wiring miscues. Just hoping that someone has experienced this issue and knows the fix. Thanks
Last reply by jerman, -
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- 3 replies
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This is my first Z. 74 260 Someone removed the electric FP. Wires are hanging there bare With ignition on or car running there is no voltage. question; Should electric FP turn on with ignition(like radio)? Or does it run intermittent due to load condition? Thanks in advance -Dr.
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Thanks in advance. I searched but no luck... Dr.
Last reply by Dr. Wombat, -
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Is there a specific name or style for the cable ties used in the engine bay wiring bundles? I'm referring to the ones that plug into a little hole on the fender. The best I can do for now is to look up "push in cable ties' or 'panel mount cable ties.' You want to make sure you get the same kind and not mix them, like I see sometimes on the hoses. thxZ
Last reply by Darrel, -
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The Z is almost ready for inspection, though Alberta requires there be a neutral safety switch in working condition. Since I have a `70 4 Speed with straight stick linkage, I don't believe that was ever a feature. My solution is to wire in a switch to the clutch pedal, that basically ensures the car will not move if started in gear. Now, obviously there are a 1,000 ways to go about this, but surely someone here was already done the guess work. My first thought is to install a 2nd brake pedal switch to the clutch pedal, to act as an interconnect to the ignition. I would rather not cut anything in the ignition harness, so I would probably just run a heavy gauge wire to put…
Last reply by KAL7467, -
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I have a mid '73 240Z with an electric fuel pump in it, and it's not running. The pump is tested known good out of the car, there's just no power to it from the harness. The passenger footwell relay panel does not have any of the add-on relays for the electric pump nor are there any relays on the firewall by the heater fan like another diagram showed. I found the green wire that runs to the fuel pump on the large blue connector that connects the dash harness to the body harness, and the pump will run if I jump power to it off the battery directly, so the body harness and ground are fine. Wiring diagrams tell me that the green wire splices into the black/white ignition…
Last reply by Captain_Zeros, -
- 4 replies
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Hey guys, I just discovered that one of the previous owners swapped out the alternator for the 60 amp 280zx alternator. I read the atlantic z car write up on how to wire it, and whoever wired this did it completely different. They connected wires 5 and 6. The car runs but the voltage drops when lights are on, heater is on, flashers are on or the radio is on. I also noticed the brake warning lamp relay under the passenger seat is disconnected because it the brake lamp stays on permanently when its plugged in. Does having that relay unplugged have a negative affect on anything else and how is the car running with only wires 5 and 6 connected? http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techt…
Last reply by bryand2, -
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So, I have two wiring diagrams. One is the FSM which I have two copies of. It seems that according to the FSM, there are only two wires at the coil. One comes from the distributor and goes to the negative side. It gets no more detailed than that, which is frustrating. On the laminated wiring diagram I got off of EBay, I have a green/white wire going to the coil from the tach. That doesn't jive with reality. It indicates it is for a '72 -'73 but that configuration seems to me to be from an earlier car. There are 4 wires coming out of the harness right next to the coil. Two appear to be black with a white stripe. One is all black, one is black with either an off white or f…
Last reply by beermanpete, -
Fuel pump 1 2
by conedodger- 22 replies
- 6.1k views
I have the service manual so I suppose I should just go research this myself... Ok, I have a very stock 'looking' 73 240Z with triple Webers and some other very tasty modifications. But mostly, I have stayed with the stock wiring and so forth so that I don't become talked about as one of those 'Dumb-arse previous owners' you hear about one day. So here is my dilemma; I had a problem with my fuel pump and I was away from home, I had it towed into a shop and the guy said the fuel pump wire was disconnected. He 'rewired' it. So there goes a $100 but it works. Next, I am having a buddy of mine balance the carbs and he calls and says the fuel pump is toast. I buy another from…
Last reply by conedodger, -
- 9 replies
- 2k views
Ok, brake lights used to work fine on my 70 240Z, then worked periodically and now don't work at all. Checked the brake switch, it works fine (used voltmeter to confirm power). Hazard lights work fine, with the brake lights going on and off with the other lights. So, brake switch and hazard switch work fine, does that mean my problem lies in the T/S switch? Based on what I pulled up in the archives, am thinking that is the case. Thoughts?
Last reply by Wade Nelson, -
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Hi, I have '72 240z with automatic engine. Recently, I have valve adjustment done and engine start up so smoother than ever. Following modification is done to my car. - Coil upgrade to MSD Blaster 2 (Register also replace that comes with MSD Blaster2) - New Spark Plug (NGK BPR6ES-11) - New Spark Plug wire (NGK Blue) - New Cap - '82 Maxima(280ZX) 60amp Alternator Car runs good and stable. I have Three 240z distributors. Original Distributor for automatic is dual point distributor. I works fine. I got two single point distributors from 240z. I rebuild one of then the other is original condition. When I swap Dual point distributor to single point distributor, I h…
Last reply by tamo3, -
- 8 replies
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I took my alternator off and in the process, I noticed that the lower bolt holes are significantly larger in diameter than they need to be. In other words, the bolts fit through the holes and there's still a lot of wiggle room. The lower bolts could be larger in diameter and still fit. I've seen this done on other cars where they pressed in a tight fitting bushing into the holes that slide a little bit as the bolts are tightened. These bushings account for the fact that they can't hold the tolerance on the distance between the alternator mounting holes. But, I don't have any of these bushings on my alternator and I'm wondering if this is normal, or if I'm missing pieces…
Last reply by Captain Obvious,
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