Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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Last sunday the heater fan (blower) stopped working, all suddenly. (240z, 7/71) Have checked all the fuses, both in the fusebox and the in-line fuses and they are all working. There is no power on the switch, and there is no power on either sides of the in-line fuses (should be on one side if the fuse where blown). So...the question is, where do i find the main power wiring to the heatersystem ?, can`t find it in any wiring diagrams ( the heater section is not there at all!!).
Last reply by ihiryu, -
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I have a 73 240Z with a Crane XR700 and Mallory Turbopower ignition coil. The tach is currently non functioning and I was wondering if anyone had any experience with the Crane Tach adapter. From the website it says that the adapter may or may not work. If it doesn't work, does anyone know what are some of the options for an aftermarket tach that fits within the dash? I have seen the autometer with the silver edge, but I didn't know if there might be some other brands out there.
Last reply by cbaker, -
OK, here's a tricky one, i have a 70 240Z, i may or may not have the correct headlight switch ( see attached ) but i have not headlights now, but if i connect the white/red to the green/yellow next to it the head lights work. my question is, what should the white/red wire connect to? (my schematic doesn't show a white/red wire to the headlight switch )
Last reply by EScanlon, -
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Old posts can indeed be enlightening. I recently checked my wipers and found them to be no-op. No movement, no apparent power. The big Q: is it the combo switch; the motor, the fuse, something else??? I did a quick search today and found this thread from 2006 with good basic guidance: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread24329.html When I finished the resto last year, everything worked fine (as fine as an OE wiper motor can be concerned). I have a new MSA fuse box and all original wiring in excellent condition. The combo switch is original and not rebuilt. Following the thread, I checked the fuse and found it to be OK. Next step was the 2X3 connector on the fi…
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
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Ok so I put my dash back into my 240 and since I numbered them all of the wiores mated up really nice. The passanger side and center console areas are ran correct and hidden from view. My question is on the driver side. Does the harness run under the steering assembly or does it kind of run up and over than come out on the left side and go to the ignition switch? The latter seems to be correct especially since the buzzer wires are very short and only seem to reach if it is run this way.Any info or pictures would be greatly apreciated. It is a 1971 Series 1 240. Thanks in advance
Last reply by KAL7467, -
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I have noticed their are connections on the front harness for fog lights. A red wire that jumps from one side to the other and then into the car and a black wire that gives constant ground. I can not for the life of me find where the red wire is taped up inside the car or if it is a dead pin on a plug. I would like to use this wire to trigger my fog light relay if I can find it inside the car. any info would be apreciated. The wiring diagram in the FSM just says it is a red wire and a red and green wire...
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
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It appears that Datsun switched plugs from the projected tip BP6ES (where the "P" means "Projected Tip") to the standard non-projected tipped B6ES (no "P") in 75? But what's interesting is that the small amount of armchair research I've done seems to indicate that the farther down into the cylinder you get the spark, the better the burn, and projected tips help in that way. Anyone know WHY they switched to the standard non-projected tips? Any reason I should not use the older projected tip BP6ES plugs in my 77? Here's why I ask... I've got projected tips in there now from my previous owner and they looked perfectly normal to me (after looking at 260 plugs for so long). Th…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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So for today's surprise, i found a black wire, about 10-12 inches, both ends have wire eyes. One side was attached to the plate that secures the air flow meter, the other end was dangling. Any ideas where the other end should be attached? I cannot figure this out from the schematic in the owners manual. Is it my imagination or are the electrical schematics a little sketchy in the FSM? Dianne
Last reply by ninjazombiemaster, -
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I made 3 attempts but the contacts carboned up: 1. Caig Deoxit 2. Burnishing 3. Burnishing and Deoxit I am wondering if twisting and shifting will cause two new fresh (and presumably plated) parts of the contacts to touch?
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I'm about to upgrade alternator. I study 12si, CS144, Nissan Quest alternator swap, but I chooses easiest way to just swap with '82 280zx alternator. When I went to junkyard, I found '82 Maxima 2.4l and '82 280zx. Both have 60Amp alternator. Since Maxima's alternator cleaner, I pick that one. I learn basic from here. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/voltreg.htm Got diode from Radioshock http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062578 I could not find how to wire 240z to get ride of voltage regulator. Based on the information, I think I got right wiring diagram. Do you know …
Last reply by tamo3, -
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I'm wondering if I can use the GM module on an '83 zx distributor?
Last reply by 5150 will, -
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My old battery charger that I use for cleaning rust off small parts finally died on me so I went out and bought a brand new one but it won't produce a charge to start the electrolysis process. There seems to be some "smart" circuit or detector in these new battery chargers that does not sense a battery and so won't release the charge. Some safety issue I guess, does anyone know of a way to defeat this detector or any other way around this problem? Thanks, Chris
Last reply by grannyknot,
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