Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
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My friend has a '75 280 that had a crane x700 spark box on it which we removed. After reconnecting the stock ignition system we noticed the ballast resistor had been removed by the PO. Using the 12v coil the crane module used, would connecting both power wires to the positive terminal cause any long-term damage to the stock transistor ignition module? The car runs when wired that way. If running it that way will cause an eventual issue on a '75, what did Datsun do to the '78 model since that was the only year that didn't use the ballast resistor?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Ok, I’ve started wiring the alternator in my 1977 280Z. I’ve noticed a huge issue: the wiring harness has two wires and T-Connector, while the alternator has four pins. Im not sure as to the type of Alternator, but would a new compatible voltage regulator be needed to make this work? thanks in advance!
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I have been working on creating a comprehensive diagrams so I can rebuild all of my wiring and I could really use some help with the last couple of details. Context: The previous owner sold me the car largely disassembled so I have had to chase all of the wires and connectors and figure out what they go to. In the process of doing that I discovered that my engine harness is for an automatic, but I have a manual car. There are also a couple of wires that were snipped. The first thing I need to understand is what one of the cut wires is for. It's a thin black wire (approximately 14 or 16 AWG) and comes out of the main trunk of the harness near the Seatbelt Relay c…
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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I have a 1977 280Z, and it (or I rather) have an unusual problem. The red brake light indicator will not go off. But here is the kicker. When the parking brake is fully engaged the light is very red, release the parking brake and the brightness diminishes quite a bit (but it is still on). Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim
Last reply by MM569457, -
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I have my antenna hole rubber plugged. But i have the original antenna with cable and i think it all works (i am missing the outer chrome portion that screws on outside car). Wondering what others did. Did you go with A stationary antenna? If you used original where did you mount the electric button to raise lower antenna. I dont have original radio, but a newer one. So would need some kinda button if go electric route. Or did you just rig it so when the radio is turned on the antenna raises and lowers when turned off
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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Many of us have used VC for electrical connectors, especially for 240Zs. They announced that they will need to increase prices in February, and they encouraged people to place their orders before the price increase. Fortunately for me, I just restocked before they announced the future increase.
Last reply by zKars, -
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I’ve never seen these mounts on the front of a 240z before. I’m thinking it is a fog light mount/bracket that also relocates the horn? Wiring for both stay in the same general area? Canadian model? Looking for input.
Last reply by HS30-H, -
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I have switched all of my dash lights to LED with success, with everything working correctly, but the bright light symbol does not light up. I have switched the bulbs between LED and incandescent and it still does not light up. I probably need to check and see if I have a ground issue, though it is difficult to reach behind the dash. Other than a ground or power issue, could there be an issue with the turn signal switch that is impacting that particular light? Appreciate your assistance!
Last reply by Duffman, -
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After replacing a couple of batteries I decided to check for a current drain and sure enough I have a 2.5A drain on the battery without the ignition on. I tried disconnecting the shunt and no drain. I then disconnected the fusible links one at a time and no drain with either disconnected. I'm looking for next steps so I don't miss anything along the way.
Last reply by Dolfinz, -
I'm driving my 1971's (feb) 240z now for about 22 years and i can say i had never a problem with it when i ignore the new set of gaskets and oilseals i installed in 2007 because there were a lot of degrading seals.. Yesterday i wanted to go chopping and it was the first time that ... there was nothing after i tried to start?? NOTHING ?? nothing... wtf.. 🤬 Pulled the hood and a look at the multimeter (that is never far away in my case..) told me the battery was completely empty. (about 180mV!) I know what it did but now is the question do you? The battery is 3 years old and a good brand, this was not the problem.. the alternator? nope.. perfect…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Been searching the forum for answers to my problems but have been unable to find one. 73 240Z complete tear down and rebuild. Working on reinstalling the dash and electrical. Trying to check out as much as possible before moving on. I've connected a motorcycle battery to the main electrical cable in the engine bay (that normally connects to the battery cable) for testing purposes. I did a pretty good job of marking all wires and plugs to facilitate reconnecting. Also I installed a new ac/heater system that had its own wire harness. I only had to use one 12V switched wire from the original harness and the blower motor control switch. So now I have two current problems…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Does anyone have a picture(s) of how the headlight wires enter into the sugar scoop to connect to the headlight? I'm assuming the wires normally come from the engine compartment? How do the get to the area behind the headlight? I found a very basic sketch but it isn't that helpful. I am rewiring my car (1976 280z) from scratch and can do it any way I want. Looking for the cleanest install. Thanks
Last reply by Captain Obvious,
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