Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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- 3 replies
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I would say an hour and a half of searching is enough. I get all kinds of search results on 280ZX distributors and such but not what I need. So, sorry for the forum clutter but I still have no tach... The MSD6AL is installed under the dash with a custom mount to the fan housing. Red and Black power are direct to the battery. White wire is direct to the wire coming out of the distributor. Black wire is direct to the negative side of the coil. Orange wire is direct to the positive side of the coil. Red wire is to a black wire with a white stripe coming out of the harness right by the coil mount. The MSD6AL appears to be working, but of course the coil is not working. I hav…
Last reply by conedodger, -
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I'm wiring in a set of driving lights on 75 280Z. I'm using a standard 4 pole relay and SPST(lighted) switch. I'm not going to tap into any of the light circuits. I think I have this right but need a verification. Driving light + to pole # 87 Batt + with in line fuse to pole # 30 Switch ON to pole # 86 Switch OFF to batt + Ground to pole # 85 Driving lights each to ground. Thanks for any input
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I purchased my brand new 280Z on April 2, 1977. The car was stored for 12 years. I'm in the process of making it ready for the road again. My problem is that the volt meter stays on 12-13 volts when the ignition is in the locked, and or off position. The volt meter will go to ZERO (0) when the fuse to the hazard lights is removed from the fuse box. Any thoughts? Is this a relay problem? It was fine until the car overheated. The water pump and fan clutch and themostat have been replaced. Now here comes the electrical dilemma. Kindly help. Dianne
Last reply by lemonlips, -
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I have checked power & ground to gauges,w/temp works,yel/blk wire is good from gauge to sending unit,swapped out sending unit. With key on gauge sweeps to 140lbs,with engine started gauge slowly drops to below zero and stays there. Is it the gauge?? and if so,can I change only the oil press side?? Appreciate any advise on this problem,Thanks,Aloha from Honolulu
Last reply by beermanpete, -
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Every Tom **** and Harry knows how to use a voltmeter (DVOM) to measure voltage. Yet there are even a lot of auto MECHANICS (techs) today who don't fully understand the concept of voltage drop. Take 20 minutes to read and understand this, ask me any questions you need to completely "get" it and you will be light-years ahead of 99% of people diagnosing auto electric problems. Voltage DROP has to do with a circuit's ability to supply adequate voltage/current UNDER LOAD. It's more a "quality of power" type issue than "just voltage." Imagine you have a fully charged battery, 12.6 volts or so, when you put your meter across the battery terminals themselves. Imagine you now …
Last reply by Wade Nelson, -
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'77 280 with the 7127 GM alternator (internally regulated) with aftermarket stereo and fusible link upgrade I have a few issues. The main symptom is not charging. Besides for the battery not charging the other symptom I've ever seen is with the voltmeter and interior electronics. When car is off tbe voltmeter reads 0 volts. When the car is off all interior accessories also do not work. Hazards, radio (doesn't save presets,clock, cd track,etc), horn, dome light, dash lights (with headlights on)...) I turn the car on and nothing happens unless I rev the engine above 2700rpm. At this point the interior comes alive Horn, lights, radio, etc all start to work. The battery does …
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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71 240z resto. I cleaned with deoxit bench tested the gauge, installed and it lasted for 20min then stuck open. I removed the gauge (thanks Escalon!) disassembled, filed the contacts, re-installed, it lasted for 20min then stuck open. I swapped in the workings from a 280z gauge, did not touch the contacts , it lasted for 20min then stuck open. It there something I am not doing? Sender is fine at 10ohms to 70ohms. Wiring is fine.
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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I hate to ask this question since its been asked so many times before, but I tried the other solutions and they did not work. When I bought the car, both the low and high beams worked fine. The day I got it home, the left headlight had gone out and a few days later the right headlight followed. The amp meter needle bounces when I switch on the low beams (parking lights) but no longer does anything between the low and high beam settings. Literally every other light in the car works except for the headlights. I did some searching and other people who had the same problem as me either found a broken connection under the steering wheel or had a bad switch, so I cleaned the s…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Car: '73 240z Front turn signals work but the rears don't and the hazards work on all 4 corners. I've tested the switch and it appears to be functioning fine. I tested the bulb socket and they're getting no power when turn signals are activated. I replaced a flasher from the drivers side foot area. Also, some say the flasher is on the drivers side by your feet and other say it's under the dash. Are there multiple flashers for the turn signals? I know the turn signals go through the hazard switch but how do I remove the hazard switch to test for continuity? Does the dash need to be off? Any guidance would be appreciated.
Last reply by madkaw, -
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so, i had the z up for sale, mostly cause i cant even find a dist cap on the islands, but then, i started driving this white refridgerato on wheel commomly known as a villager and i decided it was time to appreciate my z again. so, my wiring is jacked! splices everywhere, nothing works, fuses blow, hazard switch broke into 7 million peices, head lights keep finding new reasons to dim. i need a new harness...i guess. all the links i found are not supported anymore. please forgive me if i dont navigate forums well, im used to having a more local support group. thanks for any help. i promise i wont sell her!
Last reply by Quinn'Z, -
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I'm about to put on my dash cap and was going to ask if the clock problem with these cars is fixable at the clock or is it something deeper? I've got a 1/2" split above my clock and can get to the wiring pretty easy by making the split even larger (notice I didn't use "crack", giggidy) with little effort. I plan on refilling the splits with black silicone sealant before I put on the dash cover. Thanks for any advice.
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 7 replies
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Just started tearing the front of the car down for resto and found that the P/O has cut off the white plastic electrical connectors for both signals and headlights and soldered them together making it impossible to remove them without cutting. I would like to re-install connectors. Does anyone know if these connectors are still available, or where I could get them? Thanks, Chris
Last reply by grannyknot,
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