Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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I just installed the MSA fuse box in my 71 Z, but the original cover does not fit. Is there a way to use the original cover with this new unit? It appears to have mounting holes pre-drilled in the inside of the box for something but no other pieces were included. Thanks for any insights Mark
Last reply by fiveleaf, -
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- 6 replies
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So I just happen to be checking over the car for summer. and noticed at idle the voltage was dropping to 0 and spiking now and then to 15-20v at battery at idle! for half a sec then back to about 13.6 but once off idle above 850 it would sit happy at 13.64 so whats the deal? bad ground? I have no lights or dim issues but some times the amp gauge sits a little on the Neg side I know the volt-regulator is adjustable but dont wanna play there yet..... any help before I get silly and take apart a running car?
Last reply by aceofspades, -
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I'm installing a Mallory Unilite dizzy w/ mechanical advance to complement my new triple Webers. My OEM dizzy had two wires (blue and black) that apparently went to the electronic ignition module. The wiring diagram with the Unilite has the wires going directly to the coil/ballast. I'm having a brain fart here and but I think that the new dizzy doesn't need the OEM ignition module since it has it already built in and that I would wire it according to the diagram and abandon the old wiring. But.....the OEM ignition module affects other stuff too (tach, etc) and somehow needs to be wired in. I've search this site and others and cannot find an answer. Most searches com…
Last reply by aceofspades, -
- 16 replies
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Well we finally had a nice day so I decided to get the old girl out of storage. After hooking up the battery and checking fluids she fired right up! As I was topping up the clutch master (slave cylinder is leaking and WAS first on the list of jobs), my son says "dad there's smoke coming from the starter." I look and sure enough the fusible link is smoking. My heart dropped as I looked to the cabin and its FULL of smoke. As quick as I can I shut her down and disconnect the battery, but it appears the damage is done. I haven't had a chance to investigate, car will be towed home today, but a preliminary look revealed melting of wires coming out of steering column, leading to…
Last reply by northernz, -
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Not sure if this is proper use of the forum but I am in need of a front RH marker light for my 76 280Z. I have some wiring but just stops at leads nothing else. I am guessing these can be spliced in if you do not have the complete light and hraness assembly.
Last reply by cbuczesk, -
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So while I was replacing rear main seals and doing a headlight realy upgrade and slapping on some Triples I decided to do that little trick to make my front marker lights blink. I referenced the Daniel Stern Lighting website that shows you how to switch the wires around so the front markers act as blinkers. The problem is that the front left blinker doesn't want to work with headlights on now.The blinkers and hazards work fine without the headlights on. Now I did notice somewhere in all this work I did with my headlight upgrade that the left front blinker wires when moved around was causing issues with bulb-like there was a short. I know I might have already answered my q…
Last reply by madkaw, -
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So I'm pulling my wiring harness before I respray the engine bay, and on the passenger's side where I'm disconnecting everything, I've run into a small problem. The passenger's side of the dash has three plugs that match with their corresponding plugs which are mounted to a big white plastic piece near the firewall on the inside of the car. Is there any proper/easy way to get these plugs out of the plastic piece? It appears they must be removed to pull the harness out, but it looks like they are clipped in on every side. As far as I can tell I'm going to be breaking a lot of tiny plastic pieces and possibly damaging them trying to get them out. Just want to make sure I'm …
Last reply by rcb280z, -
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I was getting ready to remove my alternator tonight so I started by disconnecting the wiring. Unfortunately, the brittle wire for the condenser snapped off in my hand. I assume that you can buy replacements but is there a specific type I need to ask for? Not sure if all condensers are created equal or not. Here's a pic of the one on my car before I trashed it. Thanks for any help you can provide.
Last reply by jharvat, -
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Any leads on where I can find a Water temperature switch for '75-'78 280z. I'm seeing a lot of interchange of the terms "water temperature switch" and "water temperature sensor". From what I'm seeing they're not the same. The FSM says "water temperature switch"
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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sry if this is posted in the wrong section, i'm all new to this site (my first post). well, first of all i wanna say i don't own a Z, but i might get one when i have a license and when i can afford one. i'm doing a 3d model of the 1970 240Z, but i came to the battery, and i just can't seem to find pics of the original battery. the battery is a Yuasa. pic: http://lh5.ggpht.com/_h0T954qJFdU/TD4c2EDa6PI/AAAAAAAAGF0/bvjUulWSh2g/s640/S30-060-01.JPG i hope some of u guys can provide pics that shows color of the battery and all the text there is on it.
Last reply by motorman7, -
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Hi Guys, I'm new to the Z world, but not new to classic autos and wrenching on them. I keep hearing "buzz" about the early gen cars having problems with the fuse boxes over-heating. Why is this? In particular, I hear the headlights are big culprits? Why? They are only 10As! I have a 67 Etype with 50A fuses and have had one issue in 38 years. So what's the skinny?
Last reply by Mikes Z car, -
- 15 replies
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It's been this way for some time (back when the car was last driving—in '04). Now I'm finally addressing it. The dash/parking lights wouldn't come on, and the culprit was the fuse you see. The metal part wasn't broken, but the left end was corroded and melted, which caused the break. I replaced it with a new one, and immediately smelled burning and the terminal area was too hot to touch. Do I have a short somewhere in the dash/parking light circuit? If so are there any typical places to look? I can fix mechanical stuff, but electrics are a bit of a black art to me. Hence the reason I'm restoring a Z and not something with Lucas electrics.
Last reply by Darrel,
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