Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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- 5 replies
- 2.4k views
Can someone tell where the blue wire goes to the coil plus or minus? Dave
Last reply by Bonzi Lon, -
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- 7 replies
- 2.7k views
Hi, I recently acquired a stock 1978 280z, which has run pretty good until the last two weeks, when it has started to give me some electrical issues. It always starts normally and everything electrical is good on start-up. BTW, I have a brand new Optima battery (2 months old) and replaced all grounding wires on battery-engine-body with new ones while replacing battery (also did the positive one). Anyways, now with some more frequency (in the last 2 days) after driving some miles, the Alt light in the Voltmeter goes on, and I immediately loose power to all gauges (tach, voltmeter, fuel, temp), lights (if they were on) and stereo (aftermarket with small amp, all on new hig…
Last reply by superbepro, -
- 9 replies
- 2k views
Hi all, After a long trouble-shooting session (literally over a year...) I've determined that the high rpm (4.5 K + ) hesitation issue I've had is ignition based (weak spark or too much resistance?). I can make the symptom disappear (or nearly so) by jumpering the ballast resister next to my coil. My '72 240Z currently has a Petronix ignition on it with the stock coil (1.5 Ohm) and ballast resister. I've gone through a long session of replacing the dizzy, fuel pump, coil, adjusting a/f ratios, and carb float levels in an attempt to resolve the high RPM hesitation. What it has finally come down to is that if I jumper the resister, I get much better performance, if I li…
Last reply by doradox, -
- 27 replies
- 13.8k views
Hi, all. The rear defogger on my early 1972 Z, which has the older vertical grid, doesn't work. The illuminated switch lights up and I measure 12 volts at the body side connector both between connectors and + to body ground. One of the grid lines has an obvious break, but that should only affect that one line. I measured the resistance between the cleaned the hell out of (i.e., shiny now) grid side connectors and come up with 25,000 ohms, give or take 1,000. If I've done the math right, that works out to a current of .0005 amps, which wouldn't provide much in the way of heating power. My working assumption is that while the grid appears intact (mostly, see above) to…
Last reply by Coastieee240z, -
- 19 replies
- 4k views
ok, so, am i supposed to have a charge light somewhere? I've got another alternator on now and now i am not getting power at all ever to the BW or the WB wires, and I have full time power at the White wire, key on, key off, full time 12 volts. any ideas to what is going on now?
Last reply by MotoManMike, -
- 8 replies
- 1.7k views
OK, just until a few weeks ago, had no electrical or starting problems. Now out of the blue, our ’73 Z has been having to be jump started every time. Only just after driving it turning it back on within a small period of time(10-15 min) does it start right back up. In addition to the starting problem, the headlights stopped working(since then found connector popped out of relay just under steering column). Now headlights work(both low and high), but running lights stopped. Blinkers/hazards/stop are all OK. Let me say that I was working around the steering column trying to fit the plastic surrounds(another little problem as it doesn’t seem to fit flush). I fig…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 8 replies
- 1.3k views
Interesting electrical problem developed today. 76 280z When off, my battery seems to be disconnected from half the functions, my Accessory seems to be dead (and thus my fuel pump that is wired into it) , my fuseable links are good, , battery connections are good, it seems like a wire is on the verge of dieing, the battery shows on the voltmeter sometimes, but when i try to put a load on it it drops to 0. When running, the voltage reads 8 and varies with rpm (im guessing its only alternator then) My question is, has anyone else had something similar happen? I'm thinking it is one of my fuseable links, just it doesn't look broken (and isnt fully yet), I just dont know if m…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 2 replies
- 2.3k views
Can someone tell me where the sensor wire goes through the firewall and then on to the water temp sensor? I've done an L28ET swap on a 72 and have the wiring done except for this damn water temp sensor. Some of the factory harness was there but no temp sensor wiring.
Last reply by Bernardd, -
- 2 replies
- 1.2k views
Can someone please tell me the routing of the wire that goes to the horn button...when i make a left turn horn BLOWS..so its grounding out somewhere....were does the wire go from the button? were can i get a print?
Last reply by LeonV, -
- 4 replies
- 2k views
I have been blowing park light fuses at random for a year, sometimes will be o.k. for a month, sometimes a day. I have done Dave's parking light upgrade and my own headlight relay upgrade. Everything worked good after the upgrades, but now, two months later we are back to blowing the fuse. The good thing is now I have a hard short and can't hold the fuse at all. This is the wierd part: If I unplug The C-3 (black) firewall connector the fuse will hold. If I leave this one plugged in (C-3) and unplug the C-1 and C-5 (green both) lighting connectors it still blows the dang fuse..Any Ideas?
Last reply by gnosez, -
- 6 replies
- 1.2k views
Need one for a 79-83 280zx. All the salvage yards are out of stock, and the best price I can find to order one is $135. Any ideas? Many thanks!
Last reply by sopwith21, -
- 5 replies
- 2.6k views
I ask this as I am chasing down a very predictable miss and back fire out of my exhaust around 4000 rpm. I have been playing with mixture ratios and timing and the more I do this, the more I think they are acting just fine. Everything in the fuel and ignition portion of my car is less than a year old. Now I have seen my tach on some days just go nuts and peg at 7000 rpm when I am slowly idling in traffic, but it always returns, and there are other times when I floor it and the tack needle just swings insanely fast upwards 5x the speed my engine can actually rev. Most of the time my tach does behave normally, but it does act pretty funny above 4500 rpm often. So, I a…
Last reply by Daily Driven Rev,
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