Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
-
- 6 replies
- 2.9k views
I'm having an intermitant (worst kind!) of problem with my heater fan and wipers, where they will sometimes not work. I guess they are on the same circuit so I checked the wiper fuse and A/C fuse. both ok. then whilst I was working the heater fan started going, so I took the opportunity to remove both fuses, the fan kept going, so I unplugged the left connecter to the fuse box, which I thought would definitely stop the fan and wipers from working.. but no, they kept going. Am I missing something (entirely possible) or does it sound like that side of the fusebox been bypassed? Any ideas what to try next? thanks all! (I have a '71 by the way)
Last reply by SteveJ, -
-
- 3 replies
- 1.7k views
Early 74 260z. Had the centre console off to replace shifter bushings which went well. I decided to tackle my rear defog problem. Last year it was intermittent at best (i.e. if I turned on switch the indicator light may or may not come on - I couldn't tell you if the defog grid worked as I didn't drive in conditions where it was required). Testing today showed power to the switch but intermittent power to light (I could here relay cutting in and out with switch). After messing with it for a bit I managed to get no power to switch -great!. The FSM shows a 10A fuse between the ignition and the defog switch (I assume in-line fuse). Does anyone know approximately where …
Last reply by colinc, -
- 2 replies
- 1.3k views
I Recently purchased a 1973 240z, which had been stored for may years. After doing all the necessary things before I could fire her up ( runs strong buts need fine tuning) , it was on to electrical. I had working headlights reverse lights left signal left brake ( heavy draw) front parking lights ( right side dim and heavy draw) left rear parking light My marker lights have been removed? I did not have working right rear parking light brake lights licence plate light dash lights After cleaning every switch, socket and checking every wire from the front to the back the only thing I had found was when the front parking lights had been removed someone pluged t…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 6 replies
- 11.8k views
I am replacing the defroster grid on my 240Z with the vertical lines using the Frostfighter 2616 kit by turning the kit 90 degrees so it is vertical. Could someone please measure the current draw to a working rear defroster grid for a 240Z with vertical lines so I can verify the new installation won't overload the 240Z wiring? I plan on epoxying the brass bus bars to the glass instead of using the double sided tape provided and I plan on soldering all of the grid lines to the bus bars if that is practical. Also, the factory instructions call for 4 runs with 4 lines in each run with a minimum run length of 40" (and a max of 61.5") which is too big for a Z. To …
Last reply by Mikes Z car, -
- 8 replies
- 1.7k views
76 280 power will just shutdown randomly. Anything time, any speed. I have to turn it over 5 or 10 times before it fires up. Once it does it runs great until the next time. Could be 10 mi or 100. Temperature not an issue. No exhaust or fuel issues.
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 0 replies
- 995 views
Hey I just received this in the mail: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330606331460 The price was right and it looks brand new. It looks like the seller has more for sale. Free shipping and it looks brand new. I am thinking of buying another for a spare. I have not put it in my car yet but I am pretty sure it will plug in no problem. Just thought I would share.
Last reply by grantf, -
- 2 replies
- 1.3k views
As I understand it, a gear reduction starter helps primarily on higher compression engines. Am I correct? If so, is there any advantage to using one when the existing starter (now 41 years old) is functioning properly? Thanks.
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
- 6 replies
- 4.1k views
Hi all- Just dropped in a 280zx alternator in my 77 280z. Started it up and it seems to run great, except the VOLTMETER and WINDSHIELD WIPERS do not work. The voltmeter needle is just dead, and the charge light is on, very faintly. Any ideas where i should start trouble shooting? thanx, -g
Last reply by petrol, -
- 1 reply
- 1.2k views
Working on a '72 and removed the center console & heater controls and found this thingon the right not hooked up. It kinda looks like that plug on the left plugs into it but it doesnt quite reach.
Last reply by bluezcrazy, -
- 9 replies
- 2k views
I've searched, called parts stores, and even Nissan... No one can get it anymore :/ I'm wondering if anyone knows anyone selling one or where I may be able to find a new one? I went to a local junkyard and picked 2. Both off 280's and neither of them seem to work. Any help would be appreciated. Jake 559-270-7750 Shaw.Jacob.js@Gmail.com
Last reply by cozye, -
- 3 replies
- 1.6k views
Hello guys, This past weekend, among other things, I replaced my stock 76 distributor and coil with one from an 81 ZX. The Z runs a bit better but the tach refuses to work under 1500 RPM. For what I remember don't I have to add a resistor or something to make the tach work properly? Thanks greatly Jan
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 1 reply
- 2.6k views
This is probably a DUMB question but.... I'm replacing all my gauges with Speedhut gauges to include their oil pressure and coolant temp units. I see from the FSM that both of the stock sending units go to the EFI control unit. Also, the new units require the use of their sending units. So... 1. Will the elimination of the stock sending units for oil and temp cause a problem with the fuel EFI control? 2. If I use Speedhut's sending units, which must be of different current and/r resistance than stock, be OK? 3. Do I need to keep the stock senders in place and ADD the new ones just for the gauges? If yes, does anyone have any recommendations on the best way to do so? Sorry…
Last reply by Fire604,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
