Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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- 6 replies
- 2.8k views
I'm going to have to take out my ignition tumbler? and have a locksmith rebuild. Key turns to on but won't go over to spin starter. Also turns off after I jump starter with screwdriver. Bought a push button starter switch for now($5 bucks). Does it matter which wire goes to which on solenoid because button switch has no + or -. Hate to burn up something. Thanks.
Last reply by jepherz, -
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- 13 replies
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So I got my Z running after sitting for a while and lately I've noticed at night that when I turn the headlights on, they slowly go dim until I rev the car up. The car has an older battery in it that will hold a charge enough to start it for about a week, could this be the answer to my problem or could it be the voltage regulator? I know it has a good alternator on it too. Also, my turn signals wont work at low idle, only when I rev up slightly they will work. Any ideas of what that could be? Are these problems from the same source? Thanks guys!
Last reply by CW240Z, -
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I'm a brand new owner, just purchased a 1972 240Z, original motor but seller had replaced distributor, alternator and changed 4-speed to 5-speed all from a 1981 280Z. My tach is not working and I was wondering if any of the 280 replacement parts are to blame and what can I do to get the tach working.
Last reply by Jetaway, -
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I am trying to go back to a stock coil and resistor set-up on my 73. A previous owner balled-up the wiring for these - looks like he used a piece of an old table lamp power cord to hook things up. I was hoping that someone could snap a picture of their stock set-up so that I know what the wiring ought to like like. Can anyone help?
Last reply by Arne, -
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I got used distributor and i was wondering does it fit. My original one has these markings: D609-56A 506 but the "new" one has different D609-56A 707 Also, what could cause my current distributor to wobble? I have changed the axel from the oil pump and that didnt affect.
Last reply by Reverend, -
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- 3k views
After replacing the dash on my '73, my ignition switch is causing me HUGE grief. I connect the battery, and can go from lock to off to accessory to run no problem. Backing it off, I can go from run to acc to off to lock, but at that point lock is powered. And if i try to remove my key, it want's to start. Got a new ignition switch, same problem. I've disconnected all under my steering wheel again, just the switch into the 6 pin connector, and it still happens. Any ideas? Shot relay? Moderator edit from PM exchange:
Last reply by JLPurcell, -
- 33 replies
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I'm considering buying a 1980 ZX remanned dizzy and new module (Duralast brand) from Autozone here in SoCal. Together they should run me a little over $300 and both units have lifetime warranty. I'm putting it into my '73 240Z. I did a bit of research last night, and of course I'll do more, but if anyone wants to share their thoughts or even point me to the right thread by posting a link I'd appreciate it. I'm thinking about replacing the Pertronix Ignitor because the low dwell doesn't sit right with me.
Last reply by DoctorMuffn, -
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First question is about my alternator, I have no clue if it works, the car is a 77 sat for 8 years I have the alternator off and have cleaned the outside, but I'm wondering while it is off should I take it apart and clean the entire thing? Second question which is totally unrelated but none the less electrical in nature. I have almost everything out of my engine bay right now in preparation for being painted. The main thing that is left is the wiring harness.. Is there anyway to "easily" remove this? I see cars that have just been painted without it so I know it can be done but how exactly do you remove it? Along with that I only want to remove the wiring harness from the…
Last reply by Threehz, -
- 8 replies
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I have a 75 280z and a 260z engine. I also have a dumb amount of wiring harnesses and none seem to be correct. I'm only looking at running the bare min. of wiring (no ac/heat) and w/e else I can ditch. I believe I have the correct wiring for my alt. and starter but thats about it. I believe all I need now is the ignition to be wired up which is for the most part where I am stuck. What else needs to be there? There is the fuses, alt., starter, battery and ignition any thing else im forgetting about that is absolutely NEEDED? Any pictures of a dual weber setup would be helpful, along with any advice on what I need to do. I'm really ready to try to crank thi…
Last reply by 7datsun5, -
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I would like to share an interesting fact about this NOS clock for Datsun 240Z I recently obtain from a collector. It comes with a tag from Jeco stating in Japanese as followed: "In order to maintain accuracy of this clock, it is recommended to take it apart for a clean up once a year" So, do we need to take it apart every year now?
Last reply by Walter Moore, -
Like the title says, I've given up. Over the past 2 years or so, I've wasted a pile of time trying to get electronic ignition into my 240Z. And I've failed. I could never get anything working well enough that I could be happy with it. I've tried two different ZX distributors, a total of three different E12-80 modules, a Pertronix ignitor in the stock 240Z distributor, and four different coils (original 240Z, original ZX, new aftermarket ZX & 3.0Ω Pertronix). It's worth noting that all three of the distributors I've tried had good vacuum advance units and no slop in the shaft bushings. Good, solid dizzies. I've fought pinging from bad advance curves, ignition washout a…
Last reply by Arne, -
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- 1.9k views
I am confused here. I have all the rear tail lights operating correctly except the passenger side brake light. -All bulbs are checked and ok. -Turn signals/hazards work fine. -Could the socket be bad? Thanks, GI
Last reply by GIchiro,
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