Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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- 5 replies
- 2k views
Does anyone have pics of their MSD 6a instal? I am looking for the best place to mount the box and promaster coil. Thanks, GI
Last reply by GIchiro, -
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- 33 replies
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Look what I got in the mail! I am going to take some before and after pictures. Mind you I have Cibie headlamps from 1979 with an original purchase price of $54! a lot of money in 1979. Frankly the Cibies are pretty good but wanted to try these out. These headlamps are made by a company called "Truck-Lite". http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/GenericView?pageName=/new/PressReleases_en_US/12vLEDHeadlamp.html&storeId=10001&langId=-1 They are a Tier 1 OEM supplier of lighting and harnessing to the trucking industry. These headlamps are currently in use by the military in Iraq and Afghanistan, in Humvees. I have actually seen these lamps in m…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I am replacing a burned out crane ignition system on my 260z with a GM HEI module and will be installing a rebuilt distributor. I have found a lot of useful information on this forum, but still have one question. When connecting the pickup leads to the module the discussions refer to the positive and negative leads. My disributor has a plug with a maie and female connector from the pickup. My question is this: which is the positive lead and which is the negative lead? Thanks
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I've done the headlight upgrade harness, followed the instructions but something is not right. Turn on the running lights ( position 1 ) and I have side markers, tails, front driver headlight and front driver running lamp and no turn signals. Turn on headlights ( position 2 ) and I have all lamps, no turns, and no driver high beam. Anyone run into this?
Last reply by zKars, -
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I have a 1974 late model 260z. I am getting no power to the coil in any ignition position. I have replaced the ignition switch and lock. Needed a new lock anyway. I tested for continunity at the switch connector with the switch in the different positions Seems I have continunity. I checked the coil with a multi meter with the negative end grounded to the strut tower bolts and the positive on the coil positive, no power then I did the same for the negative side, no power. I did the same with the coil resistor at all connections...same thing no power there either. Where could I be losing power from the ignition switch to the coil.
Last reply by zdude1967, -
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I am trying to determine if my ignition switch is bad. Some history on the issue: I have a starter button which connects directly to the starter. The starter will engage without the key by pressing the button. It will however not start if the ignition switch is not in the on position. I believe this is because there is no electrical flow or spark. Currently I have no electric flow when the key is in the arse or ON position, ie no wipers, blower etc. Also no spark. I used a multi meter and tested all 5 wire connectors that hook to the ignition switch, I have power in one only it is the white /red wire. Is this correct or am I susposed to have power in all 5 wires. I have a…
Last reply by jwtaylor, -
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I'm replacing the lens covers on the front large blinker lights of my 71 Z. Several of the screws have been broken trying to get them out. Anyone know where I might pick up a dozen or so of these screws? Thanks for your help. Guy
Last reply by robftw, -
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Im trying to find remanufactured starter here (Finland) but i need the original part number and knowledge about the power. They said to me (in auto part shop) that there is 0.8kw and 1kw starters. Help?
Last reply by Reverend, -
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my 78 is being restored while im away to iraq and my father is haveing a problem with the coil pick ups burning out and it has only a MSD package upgrade to it. im not sure what needs to be done if any thing to prevent this problem.
Last reply by Vipergts, -
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'73, stock distributor, Pertronix Igniter, MSD 6A. Symptoms started one day last week after winding out 2nd gear. My tach jumped from around 4K up to around 6K, then back down to around 4K. After that, the engine was running roughly, not revving easily, and backfiring under anything more than light load. I thought maybe a plug was fouled because it definitely felt like it was down a cylinder. Here's what I've done: 1) Changed the plugs 2) Checked to make sure the distributor didn't move. 3) checked the cam timing, thinking it was timing chain slip or the tensioner broke. It was dead on. 4) Checked valve clearance, since it'd been about 2 years. No difference. 5) At this …
Last reply by BadDog, -
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Hi! Hope you can help me source the issue. It's a '77 280Z with a new(ish) alternator. Bypassing the voltage regulator it puts out over 15V. The battery (also newish) and measures about 12.4V with engine off. At idle, V = about 13.2 to 13.4V and will charge up to 14.5V at high rpm. BUT, turn on the headlights, and V = 12.8. I tightened the alternator belt, clened the fusable link connectors, and other accesible connectors. I have Zondabrain headlight wiring harness upgrade and the H4 headlights from MSA. Is it possible the relay in the headlight harness is faulty?
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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I have some strange electrical issues and think it may be the ignation switch. Is there a way I can bypass the switch to check if the electric flows to the accessories such as blower motor, wipers, etc. Is there a way to make this happen. Thanks
Last reply by EScanlon,
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