Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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i have a 78 280z with a 280zx engine/drivetrain with triple carbs. i cant seem to get my z to simply turn over. all the fuses check out. my question is do i need any of the fi harness and related fi component for the z to turn over? the over all goal is to try and start the car but first i need her to atleast turn over.
Last reply by overdrivex, -
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Has anybody ever added the third stop lamp to an S30? It could be a useful safety tool with all the tailgaters out there, and that cars like the 280Z doesn't have the different colors for brake & turn signals. One old guy actually asked me why my brake light was flashing when I was turning, and that I should fix it (the wiring) before an accident happens... Would you rather use something traditional with bulbs in it or go with the new L.E. D. style? It could be attached to the plastic cover near the dome lamp or attached directly to the window... You could even go with the roof-mounted type. Wiring it all up shouldn't be too hard after you get all the interior…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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WHen I first joined this forum, I noticed my tach was never really happy anywhere above 5k. I quickly determined that it was in fact the tach that was not happy, rather than the engine. Today, it was the first really hot day out, and after being in the sun all day and then getting stuck in traffic, I noticed my tack was hovering around 4k. Which in itself is not that unusual, but I was idling at a stop light. I noticed it then began to bounce slowly back and forth as it made it way to peg the needle past 8k. Now since I was at idle, I was pretty sure that this was not really happening :stupid:. The car ran just fine, so I was really not worried, figured the tach w…
Last reply by ChrisZ, -
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I had the interior of the car out while doing all the floorpans and supports along with a T/C mount rebuild. After putting the car back together I ended up with a new problem. All lights work, turn signals, headlights, brakes, and dash lights, until I turn on the headlights and I loose the rear running lights, and license plate light, additionally the dash lights go out. Checking the FSM, I can see the license plate light and rear lights connected to the same problem, but not the dash lights. Am I missing a common point between these problems or am I facing two different issues? The reason I think they are related, is when I have dash lights I also have the lights …
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
I have a 1970 Z, number 4095. Appears the PDO did some creative re-wiring so I have a few questions. First, with the ignition off, no key in ignition; if I turn the headlights on, shouldn't the tail lights come on also? They don't. Next, when I step on the brake peddle while driving, the right turn signal indicator on the dash lights up..... Any thoughts? Mike
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
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We had the car running before we pulled the engine to replace a gasket and the cam. Today, after reinstalling, the car won't start. After cranking, it seems like it wants to start for a couple seconds. We pulled a plug and tried to get it to spark (after confirming we had fuel), but it didn't spark until AFTER we let off cranking. I plan on installing a spare points dizzy to see if somehow the ignition module was damaged, but we've done a lot of wire elimination earlier. Basically, the only wires to the interior go to the ignition switch and the tach. Again, the car started with the same setup previously; the only known change was a new gasket and cam. If anyone has any i…
Last reply by escapedan, -
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don't know if it's been posted before but in case anyone runs into it. bought Nissan replacements for dome light door switches (both are 2 wire). drivers side 2 wire easy, plug 'n play. exactly as original. passenger side on my 5/71 240z was only 1 wire. replacement switch had two wires. apparently Black Dragon ships same part for both sides. made adapter to plug in female to female what i assumed was hot wire (+) to connector (center post conductor). assumed ground wire would not be needed since body of switch would be grounded by contact with frame (like OEM). left the wire attached to body of switch (-) dangling. shut pass door, light stays on. unplug wire to center…
Last reply by mlc240z, -
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I have lost both high and low beams on my 77 280. There is no power to the fuse block. There is power through the fuseable link. I have read every post I can find and have tried everything I can come up with. If I heat up the fuse block, the lights do come on. Every other light works as it is supposed to. Near as I can tell, I am looking for a missed or bad connection between the battery and the fuse block. Am I overlooking something? Thanks, Leonard
Last reply by lmcguffin, -
I'm at my wits end concerning my car and this gremlin. I have a 72 240z with a stock 2.4 4 speed and su carbs. The car will stop on me from time to time for a while now. I can always tell when it's about to happen because the car starts running really bad after deceleration on the freeway or similar circumstances. I have had the carbs adjusted/floats sync, new distributor, new fuel pump and spark plugs. The car acts as if it's running out of gas prior to it stopping and once it stops it will not fire back up for about 3 minutes it just cranks. Once it comes back to life, it runs as if it was flooded or misfiring. Any ideas concerning this?
Last reply by rhands, -
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If you read my other thread, you'd know that I can't get spark. What's happened since we pulled and put the engine back in: Car will only spark AFTER cranking. Getting +12V @ BOTH sides of the ignition coil. Car is a '73 240Z w/ ZX E12-80 dizzy. We can't take it to a shop because we don't have budget for it (http://sdgrandchallenge.com), but we will buy beer for any soul willing to come to the garage and help us figure this out
Last reply by e_racer1999, -
- 1 reply
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Well I had a problem that my tach is acting up strange and also it looked dirty from the inside. I decided to take it out and pull it apart clean it and see if I find any problems with it. So I came up with this. Hope it helps. Check the attachments. Tomorrow I will be trying it again see how it comes out. Hope this works:beer:. tachpart1.doc Tachpart2.doc
Last reply by Walter Moore, -
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Hey guys, I have an early '74 260Z with the stock transistor ignition system (except for MSD Blaster 2 coil) and original distributor. Today it would crank strong but not start, and I found later that there was no spark. The resistances on the coil were out of spec, so I went ahead and picked up another one. Still didn't start. So I checked the pickup coil the way I was always taught to: connect an ohmmeter to the connector, then tap the coil lightly and see if the reading changes. And it did: with an initial reading of 727 ohms, it changed about +/- 300 ohms with each tap. Is that the problem, then? I ask because I've never run into a bad pickup coil before. Are there ot…
Last reply by alhbln,
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