Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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- 13 replies
- 4.5k views
So I've given up fighting with the stock points system and broke down and bought a Pertronix setup. I was trying to put it in today, but had some issues with getting it in and rememberred that the autos had the 2-point distributor which was different than the single point of the manual transmission cars. I called MSA and they couldn't tell me if they were compatible or not, and the problem is there's literally not a single picture on here actually showing a Pertronix installed in a 240Z distributor, so I'm not sure if I've got it in right anyway, I can get the main screw holes lines up, but then there's another screw hole that doesn't line up with anything, and I really h…
Last reply by Zforce, -
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- 0 replies
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ok so here is the problem i am trying to get my 1978 280z running and all the relays are good but i do not get any voltage to the actuation side of the furl pump relay. but if i jumper a 9 volt battery to that side of the relay i can get the car to run till the battery runs out the only exception is when its like that if i try to turn on my blinkers or hazardz then it dies and i also dont have any interior lights. or instrument panel lights. any ideas ???
Last reply by Devil_smiley, -
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I'm installing a new ignition switch on my 240z and I've run into a frustrating problem. There are 2 screws mounting the ignition switch to the steering column and I have no idea how to remove them. The only way I can think of is to use an screw extractor drill bit to remove the screws. Is there any better way to remove them? Any way will work, even if it means breaking the old ignition switch.
Last reply by Arne, -
- 5 replies
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The car is a 1973 240Z with E12-80 ignition from a 1979 280ZX and an MSD Blaster 2 coil, nice stereo/CD (no amp) but otherwise, pretty stock. I'm planning on doing an alternator upgrade, and eventually the headlight wiring upgrade. I don't plan on adding any more electronics to the car (except the headlight upgrade), so the demand its at now is about all it will ever have. My question, do you think I'd be good with the 60 Amp upgrade (MSA - $120) or do I need to spend the extra for the 120 Amp upgrade (Z Specialties- $225)? It almost seems like with my set-up the 120 Amp is overkill. But I also wonder if the 120 Amp set-up would throw a hotter spark with the MSD coil/E…
Last reply by Weasel73240Z, -
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Well I'm currently elbows deep in a project with some ***** wiring and I was wondering if someone could help. I basically had to strip down the harness from where I connect to the ignition coil and where the temp sensor goes. I have been using my FSM for my '72 and am hoping that most of my tracing and guessing is correct. Here is what I have so far. The wiring abbreviations will be the same as the FSM standard: Long - Y - Temp sensor G - ? BY - ? B (becomes 2x - Neg coil - Neg dizzy (btw, swapped in an E12-80... I know how to wire that Short - BW - Pos coil from dizzy GW (becomes 2x BW when visible outside the harness) - Tach (?) - Pos coil (?)…
Last reply by e_racer1999, -
- 2 replies
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no pun intended. i put in a fresh fuse and after working for a few days it blows out again. any ideas as to the likely cause? i'm rotten with electrical stuff.
Last reply by john mcgarvie, -
- 1 reply
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just bought a 79 fairlady z. headlights dont work, i hear the relay kick with the running lights, but no relay kick for headlights, swapped smaller relays, nothing... i have power on both sides of the fusible link marked H.L. no fuse in the kick panel for it though
Last reply by racebird1, -
- 15 replies
- 4.5k views
I have a new ignition coil and resistor for my 240z, but I have no idea how to mount the resistor onto the coil bracket. Nissan changed the design of the bracket for the coil and the resistor, so I'm confused as to how I'm supposed to do this. Is there some type of clip or screw I need? The coil bracket has one hole on the top of it and the resistor also has one hole.
Last reply by Arne, -
- 7 replies
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I would like to talk share info about Rear Fog light that you can light up in 15 min. today. Many of you might already know, but I am sharing this info for many others. It cost under $20, and take only 5-10 min per side. There is an existing light socket hole between existing tail lamp holes. If you have Euro lamp, there is a plug that pops right out. Then if you go to Pep Boys, Auto Zone, Cragen, or Napa, you can buy this "marker light socket for Japanese cars" , and light bulbs, and cut-in-connector with gel coating. All of the should cost you under $20. (in my area, L.A.) Now all yougot to fo is to hook it up to existing tail lamp wires. No cutting-wires required.…
Last reply by ta240, -
- 1 reply
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So i tried to start my grandpa's 280z but what happens is that the floor temp light lights up everytime. the voltmeter drops to 4 and i get a weird "wurr" sound. The engine doesn't turn over or anything, have no idea whats the deal. The little interior light works but the map or headlights dont. Turn signals work. ???
Last reply by racebird1, -
- 2 replies
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So I have been looking for a good wire diagram for my 72 240Z. This is the diagram that keeps popping up and its useless. Nothing on this one makes any sense. I am working on my coil and points. I am not getting any power when I have the key on. Plus when I put the key on start I get no power on the starter wire. All I am looking to do is run a jumper power wire so I can get spark and hear this motor run. I have a remote starter switch for the starter. With what this diagram shows I should be able to take the Black\white at the resistor and run pos 12 volts at that point. Now if I do that I get the coil acting like a short with the wire getting warm and starting ta smo…
Last reply by carguyinok, -
- 6 replies
- 2.1k views
is there a difference between a 1973 240 fuse box and a early 1974 260 fuse box.like to upgrade my 260 one as the fuse holders are loose . msa only shows 1971 /1972 or /1973 thanks
Last reply by kully 560,
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