Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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- 3 replies
- 1.5k views
Now that I had my electrical system sorted I wanted to check the condition of my gauges, the fuel was erratic and the clock... dead. I read all about the ease of taking the gauges out from the glove box but I do not have Japanese midget hands. So I took my dash cap out, grasped my dremel and butchered the top of the dash above the gauges. I now had all the space I needed. I took the gauges out in 2 minutes, took them apart dusted them mist them with a spray of electrical cleaner. I just had to fit the cap on the dash again and now all is back in place and working. All in all it was a 20 minutes job. Try that with your fancy non cracked dash
Last reply by Caen Fred, -
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- 2 replies
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I am finishing the alternator upgrade from MSA on my 72 240. The PO had already installed a 50 amp Hitachi unit but had made no changes to wiring. My question is do you have to switch over what I believe is an external condenser from the previous unit to the new one? The new alt did not come with this part, and I have searched to try to find anyone else with this problem with no answer. These are too expensive to burn up so I want to get it right. The pictures show the wiring before the swap and I have highlighted the part in question.
Last reply by citjet, -
- 6 replies
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I will make it short (ha ha). Erratically the electrical power goes dead. Not just the headlight, but gauges, turn signals, warning... the full monty! I have an upgraded 60amp Alt, an Optima battery, and a std 1972 240z The alternator is good, I converted my car to FI and I am able to read my ECU on a laptop with an USB connection and it gives consistent 13,5 - 14 amp all the time, even when all is dead. The ECU and fuel pump is on a separate loom coming from the battery, so the car still run when the old system is acting funny!
Last reply by sblake01, -
Battery Cover 1 2
by rtaylor- 16 replies
- 2.7k views
I picked up this little goodie today. As you can see it has the Nissan part numbers on the bags. Anyone have any ideas as to whether this was original equipment on a 71? My thoiughts are that it might be a JDM part. I haven't seen any talk about a part like this.
Last reply by Mike B, -
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Hello all, I've been tinkering on my Z for awhile and I'm having a hard time getting it started. I had a stock 240 dizzy with the pertronix set-up and then added dual webers. It ran wonderfully but I decided that I needed a distributor without the vacuum advance. So I ordered a unilite, installed it, and now I'm getting nothing. I've checked for spark at the plugs and the coil, no spark at either of them. I've checked the module on the unilite and I'm getiing 11.8V with ignition on and 0.8V with an interuption in the LED. (believe this to be good) I've double checked my wiring to no avail and even tried a few different configurations I've seen on previous posts. …
Last reply by jrstallion51, -
- 5 replies
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The bracket that mounts the back speaker in place on my 1970 240z is missing along with the speaker. Where the heck do I get one of these? I can't install a new speaker without the bracket. The 240z's came with only one speaker in the back on the driver's side, correct?
Last reply by nahurry, -
- 6 replies
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Hi Folks, Basic timing question for you.... I'm replacing the stock distributor in the 'Z' with a Mallory Unilite unit. If I line up the TDC mark on the engine pulley with the timing mark on the engine block, will this be close enough to where once I make the swap the engine will start up so i can hook up a timing lite to get it dialed in? The TDC mark doesn't exactly have the rotor line up with the number 1 plug position on the cap, and I don't want to remove anything before I have the timing lined up correctly. Thanks -Phil
Last reply by peng155, -
- 6 replies
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Ok here is the deal i recently upgraded the alternator...I bought the MSA upgrade kit and all was fine for a while maybe 2 weeks or so...when i went to check the oil and coolant o noticed my battery was wet...when i gave it a better glance i noticed it was acid....so i got the volt meter out and checked the batt it was right around 12.9 volts...then i started her up to see what it was charging like...i was like wow it is at 15-16 volts at idle... what do you guys think? is it the VR in the ALT? I mean this thing is brand new...
Last reply by NismoZ, -
- 7 replies
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Hi all Yesterday i was looking at the two dizzy's i have, i discovered that the one that is in the engine bay of the car have quite a bit of sideway play, witch indicate worn bushings, i also wrote down both the parts number on the dizzy's, they were not the same. Later i remembered that Arne had one up for sale, that i actually strongly adviced another member to get, i send Arne a PM asking if it still was up for sale, NOT:hurt:. Next thing was to start looking after a E12-80 and also look up the parts numbers i had wrote down, i was a bit supriced when i found out that the worn out one is a "euro" dizzy and at the same time that one have a Pertronix ignitor module build…
Last reply by ChrisZ, -
- 11 replies
- 3.8k views
How can I provide power and how much (12V?) to the fuel pump some might call it a "Hotwire"? I need to run the pump to get it primed but I do not want to kill the battery using the starter.
Last reply by genova, -
- 1 reply
- 1.1k views
I was wondering what will cause my fusible link to blow up I have a 78 280z so the fusible link area (ignition and efi relay) blew up. thanks bee!
Last reply by Kiwi ZX+Zed, -
- 1 reply
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Pardon me for this total newbie way of describing this... Our 240Z's horn doesn't work. When I removed the headlight switch to clean the contacts, I noticed that the combo switch/turn signal part had a broken plastic tab on the bottom. I had pulled the switches off my 260Z earlier and recognized the broken piece as being what looked like a mounting bracket for a curved piece of metal that appears to be a contact point for the horn, and a loose red wire with a taped up end. I looked in my Haynes manual and couldn't find a diagram showing what it might be. Is this broken bit a piece of the horn? If so, can be replaced, or do I have to replace the whole switch? I know the ho…
Last reply by peng155,
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