Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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- 5 replies
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Hi folks mine is a late '73 240z 4speed and and when i accelerate from a standstill, i head a solenoid click at around 2500rpm coming from the passenger kick panel electrical board. What is that solenoid anyways ? There's no electrical fuel pump on this car, but 2 unplugged wires with the 2 fuel gauge wires at the tank. am I missing a pump? it has a mecanical one, of course. Always wondered if that solenoid is somehow related to the fuel system.
Last reply by geezer, -
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I have a fairly new 180 degree T stat in my 73 240Z. The temp guage never goes past the middle of the guage even on the hotest south Ga days. Lately, while driving at highway speeds, the temp guage will go back to zero. A few minutes later, the guage will go back to the normal reading. I have converted the car to a closed system with a surge tank. The coolant is at the proper level when the car is cold. I have also checked the temp sender connections, and all is well. Any suggestions guys or gals?
Last reply by Bulldog Z, -
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Hey All, Just gotta tell you with all the info here I got the 240 to fire right up with the 280 dizzy. I even found a few threads on NOT using the spendy little 12-80 module. It works great! With the 12-80 module I would have to use the Weber starting procedures (two pedal pumps and third pedal to start). With the 12-80 module removed using the magnetic pickup from my MSD 6 connected to the 280's dizzy green and red wires it fires with no choke, no pedal pumps, no one third pedal! Fires up with less than a full crank too! I'm sold on that configuration! (I'll post schematics and pics later) But my tach does not work!!!!! I'm guessing I need the MSD 8910 tach ad…
Last reply by MikeyZee, -
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Does this look right to you guys? I've got pretty poor driveability at low rpm, and I think maybe this might have something to do with it. Base timing is 15degs, but you can see that off idle it seems to retard (!) about 3 degrees before going all-in at about 2800rpm. I think it's a C210 Skyline distributor by the way, looks very much like an E12-80 but has a J-105 Mitsubishi module instead. Vac advance disconnected.
Last reply by Babalouie, -
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Hi I’m restoring a ’73 Datsun 240z and I was wondering if any of you could tell me how to test, if my oil/water and amp/fuel instruments work before I reassemble the dash and install it in the car. Regards Lars Peter
Last reply by gibson99, -
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I put the battery cables on the battery wrong. Now I have no electricty to the car. Battery has been charged and 12v is at the starter. Jammed a screwdriver between the two leads on the starter and the engine turned over. No voltage at all inside the car. All fuses inside the main box are good. Is ther any other fuses I can check. Dave (Rookie move)
Last reply by gibson99, -
Starting issue 1 2
by liltuber- 15 replies
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OK, so during winter I took out my dash to get some work done to it. I put it back in in a hurry and I dont think I wired something correctly. The problem is with the coil. When I turn the ignition key the starter turns but all it does is crank over and over, no start. I found that the coil wasn't recieving power. If i hard wire a 12v source to the coil it will start right up, but I rather not have to get out of my car and disconnect the coil to shut down the car. I looked at wiring diagrams and everything looks right. I was slightly confused about the tach part and if that might cause it? Might it be the condenser or resistor? BTW, It is a 71 240z Thanks, Adam
Last reply by EScanlon, -
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Here's my problem. If the Z sits for a few days and hasn't been started, when I go to start her up it takes a long time. We're talking about draining the battery long time. Once I do get it running it runs fine and will start right up even if I let it sit for a few hours. Starter fluid doesn't work either. It does to an extent but not the way it should. Using the choke has no effect whatsoever. Basically, it feels and sounds like its not getting a spark. But it will eventually start so I don't think that is the problem. I usually have to use jumper cables and my other car to finally get her going. Once I do get it started I have to feather the linkage and find a spot wher…
Last reply by helopilot, -
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Can somebody please help me identify what may be some kind of relay on my 72. It is located in the engine compartment, under and to the left of the coil. It has a plug-in to the wiring harness that may or may not be part of the signal/hazard light harness. Thanks! Bill
Last reply by geezer, -
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Usually the meter on my 78 registers right at 16 for voltage. Lately it has been reading at about 13 to 14, slightly lower. Sometimes after I crank the engine and start driving at night the display lights will be a little dimmer than usual (shows 13 / 14 volts). Then after a few minutes the volts go up a bit and the lights are close to normal. Maybe it's just me but I swear that there is a slight loss of power as well. I'm concerned because usually I get a reading of 16 or so, right at where the meter stops measuring. The alternator was replaced a couple years ago. It is an absolute OEM / Nissan part. Could it be my battery? I need to check how old it is, but what do…
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 35 replies
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For the past year or so, I've been trying to track down this antenna switch that fits into the center console blank spot and haven't had any luck. I got the part number for it and tried to order off Nissan.cc's website, but got a notice back a few days later that they were now obsolete. I wanted this exact one because I wouldn't have any other place to mount a switch. I tried Ebay, one went for about the same amount of money I could have bought a new antenna for! Any how, I got talking to Dave about antenna switches and he mentioned that he could make me one out of my blank plate so I sent him it him earlier this week and he got it done the day he got it! Any ho…
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
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well I am starting a new thread, because I don't think anyone has the same problem I am having. I own a 1975 280z coupe, and the fuel pump will not turn on, I measured the voltage at the fuel pump while cranking, and the voltage was reading 0.03 volts. I'm not that good in electrical problems but i know that this is not correct, I think the pump should read 12 volts while cranking if I am correct. I was wondering if anyone has any solutions for this problem? I am really at a loss right now.
Last reply by Nissanman,
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