Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
-
- 0 replies
- 2.2k views
Turn signals not working... classic. A widely discussed topic - a whole lot of great information out there surrounding it. All the solutions I've seen require taking apart the Turn Signal Switch. While this is a very professional and thorough way to go about things, it leaves room for breaking stuff, losing little pieces and so forth. That's more of a headache than I was willing to risk. So, let it be said that while my quick fix may not be the most permanent solution, it could be good enough for you. A few disclaimers: I did this on a late '71 240. From my understanding, the turn signals run through the Hazard Switch, so it's possible one's issue is with the Hazard …
Last reply by Tweeds, -
-
- 5 followers
- 69 replies
- 7.7k views
I'm back to work on my 78 280Z. It's from an estate and many items were removed under the hood by previous owner who wanted th "clean up" some things. I do have some history of the car having helped the owner in the past. Although it ran and passed a leak down and compression test withflying colors it had a number of things that needed attention. The major things i've done so far are installing new starter, alternator, distributor with fast xr3000 ignition module with distributor internals and matching Fast coil along with new plug wires, etc., new water pump and radiator, hoses, belts, removed all the old air cond. system parts under the hood, blocked off the ERG sy…
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
- 3 followers
- 6 replies
- 1.4k views
Hi guys, I did some work on the interior of my 77 280Z and removed the dash, center console, steering column + switches, heater core and I also disconnected the fusebox and relays and and ziptied those to the side to get work space. Yesterday I wanted to get the car running again because I am moving to a new house in a few weeks and need to move it. So I reinstalled the dash, the steering column + switches, the center console and connected the fusebox en relais. But I left the heater core and the heater controls out so a few plugs are not connected.. Now I don't have any power to any of the systems. None of the lights work and the ignition switch does nothi…
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
- 3 followers
- 10 replies
- 2.4k views
After being apart for years, I'm finally reunited with my 73' 240z. Unfortunately, the headlights and blinkers are not functioning.. I'm hoping someone here can give me some pointers. The hazards work/flash, the running lights work, brake lights work. The headlights very briefly worked, and we're very feint. The drivers side went out completely, and the passenger side followed shortly after. At the headlight connector on the passenger side, I am reading 11.80v on the lowbeam lead and 11.65v on the high beam. The drivers side headlight connector doesn't read any volts at all. Both the right and left headlights read 0.02v at the fusebox, white the other fuses…
Last reply by Psychophoria, -
- 2 followers
- 12 replies
- 1.2k views
Hello, I am currently restoring a 78 Z and have run into a wall with the previous owner's hack job. Can anyone help me with a picture or wiring diagram for the Water Temperature Switch (not the temp sensor) on a 78 Z? The sensor has two wires, one blue (with male bullet connector) and one black for ground. I know that the blue wire connectes to the red one, but I have spent hours searching online trying to find out where that red wire comes from and the FSM isnt really helping much. I am missing this wire completely and I believe its making the Z run rough onelce its warm (runs great when cold). Does this red wire turn into any other color further back towards the w…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 828 views
This morning I jumped into Goldie to head to the shop and when I turned the key, the windshield wipers twitched. This has never happened - switch was off, but they jumped just a bit and stopped. I thought it was weird but continued to back out of the garage. I noticed my volt meter (ya, Goldie should have an ammeter being a 260Z, but this was a turbo swap from the beginning of my ownership - with a ZX alternator - so I eliminated the shunt right off and replaced the ammeter with a 280Z volt meter / fuel gauge) Anyway,, I noticed my voltmeter was dropping to 8-9 volts momentarily and it was doing it in a rhythmic pattern. Drop for half a second and go back to nor…
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
- 1 follower
- 6 replies
- 1.5k views
I need to get help clearing the air on the coil for these cars. I begin by saying I have 2 coils, one was on the car and the other in a box of Z parts I acquired. The coil (#1 )that was in the car doesn’t really fit in the bracket, it too big but with a longer bolt it works, the one in the box (#2) is too small and won’t hold in the stock bracket with stock screw, #1 has a resistance from the center post to the (-) terminal of 1.5k ohms #2 has a resistance of 1.2 ohm #1 was on the car with the stock ballast resistor in place, and the car ran. I have subsequently removed the ballast resistor because I’m using the ZX e12 matchbox ignition. The 82’.…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 2 followers
- 3 replies
- 1.3k views
Hello, ist there a list of connectors which were used in the Fairladies? I would like to build a complete new harness and if it is possible I would like to do that with the original-style connectors. Does anybody know the manufacturers and respective connector series that were used? That would really help my search. I know that I can get some of the connectors at http://www.vintageconnections.com/, but I live in Germany and would like to source the parts locally or at least inside the EU. Thank you very much. JagoBlitz
Last reply by JagoBlitz, -
- 2 followers
- 12 replies
- 4.1k views
Trouble shooting 1973 240z Ammeter/Fuel gauge. Ammeter works fine, it is the Fuel Gauge not working at all. With the gauge out I tested the car wiring harness 4 wire plug with 3 wires with a test light. With ignition off NOTHING (as expected). Turn on Ignition. NOTHING on black wire (obvious ground). NOTHING on Yellow wire (UNIT connection on gauge) I believe this runs to gas tank. LIGHTS UP on Yellow w/Red Strip wire (IGN connection on gauge) Ignition connection. So this is normal correct? I need to check the gauge? (Back Ground Info: Fuel gauge never worked. RENU Gas Tank - restored my tank. I had a shop install tank with new float and check the wiring at that tim…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 644 views
I have noticed that when I toggle between the high/low beam, about 50% of the time when I switch back to the low beams, the headlights completely turn off until I lightly touch/press the T/S switch in towards the steering wheel again. Not a full "click" again... just lightly touching the T/S stalk will cause the headlights to come back on. Any suggestions for how to get this to toggle properly without having the headlights shut off? @dhp123166 - just thought I would get your thoughts here too since you rebuilt/refurbished the switch... any ideas? Thanks in advance!
Last reply by eastcoastz, -
- 2 followers
- 7 replies
- 1.4k views
I have a group of 3 wires near the fusebox that are just loose? Trying to look at various electrical diagrams best i can tell they are horn relay? anyone know for sure
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 3 followers
- 6 replies
- 1.5k views
I removed by faulty Ammeter/Fuel gauge. Ammeter was fine but the fuel gauge never worked. I changed out the fuel tank float and checked the wiring first, its the fuel gauge. I removed the gauge reconnected battery, car won't start, no power at all. Do you need the ammeter connected? Couldn't fine any topics on how to bench test a fuel gauge.
Last reply by Hayden,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
