Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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- 3 replies
- 1.3k views
I'm working on a very neglected '72 240z. I took the wipers and motor out recently and found them completely frozen. I disassembled the motor/gear box and cleaned and lubed the shaft so it now turns freely. I reassembled the unit and wanted to bench test it. After some research, I'm applying power on the LR (Power source) terminal of the 5 pin connector and grounding the B (Ground terminal). I then connect the LW (To relay) terminal to the L (Low) terminal and then ground both of them. The motor turns as expected, however, when I remove the connection such that the LW and L terminals aren't grounded, the motor turns backwards from the low and high speed direction. …
Last reply by rv6aflyer, -
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- 12 replies
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Hello all, I own a 1978 280z with the stock L28...my fiance has replaced some parts recently and it seems to be getting worse...doesn't make sense to me. Don't get my wrong my fiance knows Z cars like the back of his hand but he's been kinda puzzled and very cold as we have no garage to work on it in. So here's what we did...had an oil leak and replaced the valve cover gasket, had an exhaust leak and replaced the intake/exhaust gasket. It also sounded like a subaru before we started...had a miss and replaced the #5 injector but we put this and all other injectors which are not even a year old into a different intake that we had wanted to try which is from a 280zx. With th…
Last reply by sblake01, -
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I have found several threads here that address dome light problems but none (that I have found) seem to fit my situation. I have not owned my 1978 280Z very long and am quite a novice at correcting problems. Please bear with me. Here goes...The dome light, at one time, did function on occasion. Now, it will not come on at all. Light bulb is OK and the fuse is OK (I did replace at burnt one). I am getting power to the narrow connector in the light switch but no power to the wide one. When I described this situation to a mechanic he thought it might need to have the whole fixture replaced. I doubted this assessment because it seems to be in quite nice shape. Any thoug…
Last reply by Mr Camouflage, -
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How can I test the fuel tank sending unit to determine if the gauge is broken or if it is the tank unit? I see a black and a green/white wire at the tank, along with the disconnected leads for the electrical fuel pump, which this car does not appear to have. Is there some way to test it with the wires AT the tank unit? Looks like the unit is on the side of the tank ... at least something is ... I don't see any leads going to the top of the tank, so I assume the tank unit is that "thing" I'm look at where the wires connect on the front side of the tank. It's a 1971 FairladyZ, which is the JDM version of the 240Z. Thank you very much for your advice!
Last reply by Kerrigan, -
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How much would it cost to get a new fuse box upgrade put in
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Evening everyone How is the weekend going so far? I have made a little progress on my 1975 280Z /Ferrari 250 GTO kit like I drove her around the yard at work and she is absolutely nuts.If you read my post the other night about Started first time in fifteen years, you will know how stoked I am. So now I would like to do some proper wiring. I have downloaded the wireing Diagram for my year of manufacture I have downloaded the Atlantic Z Alternater upgrade and printed it. Today I purchased an Internally Regulated alternater and I was trying to make a little progress, but all I could get was frustrated. The colours in my wiring harness don't seem to match their close …
Last reply by shadesh, -
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Ok, so, I have the electrical pleague. Headlights, side corner lights, brake lights, and my wipers do not work. I am mostly worried about my headlights, and I have rechecked and doubled checked everything. Basically, is my steering wheel control unit dead? When I turn the lights on, all I get are my front blinker lights, and my tail lights. For the headlights, I have tried new bulbs, messing with wiring, double checking wireing to see if there are no cuts, ect. ect. I got the wireharness thing off blackdragon, and for at least the 240z, do not buy it unless you want to do a lot of wire cutting and fitting. Is there any place to buy a completely new wireharness …
Last reply by JimmyZ, -
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Ok so, to make sure that I have got this all straight, what do I do with wires when upgrading to a ZX dizzy with the E12-80 module on my 240z? I have a print out that is telling me to Ignition Box pin "B" to Postitive (+) Ignition Box pin "C" to Negative (-) Then remove and connect the B/W and G/W wires from the ballast resistor. Is this the right stuff? Any more or any less to do? Over at the Z garage it doesnt even say anything about messing with the ballast resistor so I am not all sure what and what not to do.
Last reply by Friar-Tuck, -
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i just replaced the flowmeter and battery after doing that the injectors would start clicking when the switch was in ON.before the car was turning on but would shut down fast, someone told me that it might be the flowmeter so i changed it.i recently came back from vacation and the first day back was the day i changed them. this wasn't happening before,also i heard it raind a lot and i think my xr7000 might of got wet. has anyone had this problem or have an idea what could it be.also the distributor gives spark while the switch is in ON.
Last reply by anthony280z2+2, -
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Is it possible to have a second battery on the car and be able to charge it with the same alternator? I'm interested in using the second battery to run aftermarket accessories like a DVD player, Flat screen TV, surround sound and amplifiers. I'd like to not have the car running while these accessories are running and I don't want to use the car battery to prevent having a drained battery. Just two batteries, one for the car and one for the accessories, charged with one alternator.
Last reply by biddljj, -
- 10 replies
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I posted this elsewhere on here, but I figured it belonged in electrical... Ok, so my boyfriend acquired a retired gt-2 class 1977 280z racecar. We are trying to get it ready to drive on the street for the spring and that means sorting through all of the work the previous owners had done. It looks like the car was thrown together for racing in a weekend. We have figured out much of the car and what needs to be in there for the street and what we can take out. If anyone wants to know more about the car let me know...its loud as heck and in decent condition. The problem we are having is with the lights. We put in headlights just to see if we are getting power and to see if…
Last reply by 7277, -
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I thought that it would fire, but no go. So I need to check with you guys to make sure that everything is correct. The wires to the old to the points dizzy I disconnect from the coil. All three wires (black, red, purple). Then the new Electric dizzy I put B to + and C to - on the coil. Then, when I dropped the new dizzy in, I had the #1 cylinder up top and lined up to the front of the engine thingy where the crank is I believe it is. Then, on the dizzy, I had the circular hole pointing towards cylinder #1 fireing order. The T was pointing towards the front of the vehicle but would not fit as I thought that the T was the marker, so then I turned it a 180 degress to …
Last reply by e_racer1999,
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