Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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- 4 replies
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Heloo. My 1977 280Z has a fusible link that keeps smoking like it's trying to catch fire! When I first got the Z it had no fusible link covers on either pair of links. Anyhow when I bought new Fusible link covers the rightside (outer most) link in the front box started smoking with the cover on it. The cover also had a melted hole on the top where the link was in contact physically. So I bought new MSA links ,which are shorter and don't touch the covers, and replaced the old ones and new covers (again) as well. Yesterday I gave my car a jump cause of a dead battery then 5 minutes after letting it run on it's own the same Fusible Link started to smoke AGAIN :hurt: Turning …
Last reply by sblake01, -
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did the internal reg mod on a 77 (Friend of son) and Screwed up!!!! made the jumper conecting 2 & 3 and 1 & 5 but here is were I was stupi, also conected 4 & 6????????????? figured it out and disconnected 4 & 6 but am blowing volt gauge fuse, sometimes after awhile sometimes right away anyone got a clue what might have happened and where I need to start looking for this fix!! Thanks Also have converted to maxi fuse instead of the LInks
Last reply by TBK1, -
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YO! I tried search function and kind of lost on this. I removed the Distributor Cap on my 1977 280Z and found all was OK and it was in like new condition. But when I pulled the Distributor itself out of the hole thingy it sits in I found there was some kind of water inside about Half a Shot Glass worth. Is this supposed to be there as some kind of Lubricating stuff or should I pull that fluid out ASAP. It seems kind of darkish clear and filmy and looks like motor oil on your fingers. Thyanx for any replies ~Z~
Last reply by WingZr0, -
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On my 280Z, there are a few groups of wire for hazard switch, radio, defroster, antenna, etc. that go from the console to the firewall area. The only problem on my car is that the PO just stuffed things up there and it's a bloody mess, a rat's nest, and you can't even tuck the carpet under the heater. Are all those bundles of wires supposed to go through the heater area with some kind of organization? should the wires be neatly organized in smooth lines like the rest of the wiring that's been taped? I may need to spend a week or two untangling things. :devious: thxZ
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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So, i was pulling the plug wires on my 280z today, and i noticed something odd. the number 2 sounded like it was sparking twice as much as the rest at first, i thought it was my ears, so i let it arc onto some metal, sure enough, it was sparking double rate what the rest were so if it would be like this 1 2 3 spark, 1 2 3 spark it would go 1 spark 3 spark 1 spark 3 spark something like that what the hell's goin on here???
Last reply by Nissanman, -
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I am most difinetly a novice here on the internal combustion engine. I can can swap parts with the best of 'em, but don't know much about the technical issues. I bought a dwell meter and timing light in hopes of learning to use them on my Z. I do have a couple of issues though. First, should I be testing dwell at a specific RPM? I can only get it up to about 33 on the meter, and that is with almost closing the points. I think my car is idling around 700 to 800. The meter says it is about 500. Secondly, There is the plate with the timing marks on front of engine. I have been loosening the 5/16, or is it 8mm bolt on the bottom of the dizzy to adjust time. What is the …
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
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Is it normal for my wipers to make an extra stroke after I turn the switch to off? It makes a slow, loud, chattering(the motor, not the blade) stroke after I turn off my wipers or on its last stroke when using the windshield spray. The wipers work and sound fine otherwise.
Last reply by Linkstar07, -
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This may sound dumb, but I notice that when I turn the elliptical adjusting screw to set the point gap, the whole point set will sometimes move. When that happens, a spring near the vacuum advance pops the lever up. When that lever is in the down position, I get no spark through the distributor, but I can't seem to get the dwell angle or the gap right when the lever is down. My shop manual is mum on this. What's happening??
Last reply by dfirestone, -
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I'm not getting 12V at the electric fuel pump of my 73 240Z. I'm trying to find the fuel pump wiring/relay under the dash. Anybody know where it is, what it looks like, etc.?
Last reply by Weasel73240Z, -
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Does any one have a better wiring diagram then the factory, and haynes manuals?
Last reply by EScanlon, -
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I am looking for information/ advice on the headlight switch. I have had this 240 for a couple of years now with only one electrical problem until this latest puff of smoke from the headlight switch. I made the H-4 headlight conversion a couple of months ago and have driven at night very little. I wonder if I went too"hot" with the 130/110 H-4 "racing" bulb? or is the switch in need of repair/ replacement. I pulled the colum covers off and felt as the hot supply (white with red stripe) wire got hot at the switch connection when the headlights are turned on. High or low, it did not matter. Anyone had this problem? The wire seemed to stay cool enough with the heat being gen…
Last reply by Neal G, -
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Well I finally got my car on the road and got it inspected yesterday. I my way back i stopped by whataburger and smoke started coming from my fuse box. I found out that the right prong on the stop light had started to melt. Today i went and removed a old stereo that didn't work and the associated wires. I also removed a hitch wireing harness that had been attached to the rear brake lights. I made sure that what ever was grounded stayed that way. Went through the fuse box to make sure the right fuses where in the right place. Once i add a fuse it still continues to heat when ever i press the brake pedal. It heats up pretty fast too about 5-10 seconds.
Last reply by nismospek,
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