Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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HI, my name is Ryan and I'm working with a friend on a couple of 1972 240z's. These cars are awesome and fun to work on. The problem we're having with one is that we can get it to start fine, but in order to keep it running we have to hold the key just past the on position. Not engaging the starter, in between the on and start position. As soon as we let the key go and it goes back to the on position the engine dies. We already tried switching out the key switches on the steering column and that didn't work. Also checked fuses but may just try replacing some, just in case. Any help would be great. Thanks Ryan
Last reply by =Enigma=, -
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O.K. I've read dozens of threads on blower motor problems . They seem to deal mostly with 240 's . I have a ' 75 280 and the fan will turn if I apply an external power source. Will not turn with the switch My console wiring is a bit of a mess dry rotted connecters.. and a few cut wires. I was wondering if the blower motor was suppsed to have an inline fuse holder under the console like the earlier models? I have looked over the wiring diagram for the 280Z and I cannot see a fuse holder , assume it would be shown. Um I also have the little rotary control over my right knee for the air conditioning, once again I have no wiring for this.. are these units linked and that…
Last reply by bloxman, -
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Hello all, I am working on the horns and am wondering what you may have used to replace the paper gasket that is between the 2 pieces. Is it needed? Thanks for your help. '74 260Z
Last reply by EScanlon, -
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So i have a 73 240z, that wont start. the solenoid clicks, but then the starter doesn't do anything. i know that started works but cause i jumped the positive over to start the block. any ideas on common things that go wront and what not. ive been playing with it for a while and haven't come to anything thanx
Last reply by Nissanman, -
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Does anyone out there have any interest in an adapter to plug a later ignition switch (1 3/8" diameter) into an early series 1 ignition lock assembly (1 1/8" diameter)? In my struggles with a bad switch I talked to a machinist about building an adapter. He figures he could build such a device for about $50 or $60 each -if he was fabricating a dozen or so. So are there 11 people out there that might be interested? Let me know if you are interested and I'll follow up on the idea. Thanks, Randy
Last reply by EarlyZed, -
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Sometime ago I bought new door plungers for my '71, I just recently went to install them and I cannot locate the passenger side wiring. The drivers side is easy two spade connectors up under the dash,but I can find nothing simular on the passenger side. The switches for both sides are equiped with spade connectors but I can locate no crresponding spade connectors on the passenger side only a couple of bullet connectors. Are the replacement plungers diffrent from the originals? Any help appreciated. Best, H Houghton
Last reply by vercingetorix, -
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Well, another problem is happening. I can't get the blower to work for me. I replaced every fuse in the fuse box behind the center dash with new fuses, all correct. But, it just won't work. I was hoping someone here might have some ideas of where to start to figure this out. The AC comp is still on the car, and the heater seems to have been replaced. So, any ideas?
Last reply by New-to-240z, -
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I have a series 1 (8/70) with some starting problems. The start position does not provide any spark! The starter motor is healthy, but the car will not start until I drop the key back to the run position. A couple attempts and it zooms to life. I have tried a second ignition switch (junkyard replacement) to no avail. It's possible both switches are bad. Does anyone have a reliable test method for these? I ran the switches through their positions and got the following closed circuits. Switch 1) ACC: WR LR __ __ __ RUN: WR LR __ BW __ START: WR __ BY BW GW Switch 2) ACC: WR LR __ __ __ RUN: WR LR __ BW __ START: WR…
Last reply by EarlyZed, -
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Anyone know the correct size for the long bolt that holds the alternator to the engine? 1973 240Z -Trevor
Last reply by ta240, -
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Hey guys, I have checked all the grounds i could find in the engine bay, and everything seems to be ok. But here's my problem . . When i start up the car its fine. Engine is running and no noise. When i move it into gear Drive, Reverse, or anything else in gear, It makes this EXTREMLY LOUD WHINE noise. I think it is coming from the dash or the actual shifter. If i put it into park or neutral, the noise goes away. I don't know if anyone else has ever had this happen, I'm just hoping someone can help me pinpoint the problem. -Matt
Last reply by MikeW, -
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Hi, I was wondering if someone could post me a picture of the proper connector for the fuel sending unit. The previous owner had some thing hacked together that failed pretty quickly. I was looking at CT today and couldnt see anything that seemed to fit it right. Thanks Adam
Last reply by superfunk, -
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My choke warning light is not going out. Anytime I have the keys in the ignition and turn it to the first click and after start up the light says on. Sometimes when I turn the headlights on it will go off... but not always. It's a 73. Anyone have any ideas? Where is the sensor for the choke warning light at anyway?
Last reply by zman112233,
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