Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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The A/C stopped working properly in my 1980 280ZX, manufactured May / 80. I swapped a set of vacuum lines under the dash and now it comes on, but it will go off, with NO air flow, then come back on again full force intermittently. Also, the auto temp doesn't really work anymore in this setting. You set it to full A/C or heat. In addition, and PRIOR to this problem, the "recirc" stopped working. Pressing the button does not evoke any change in the air flow. Any help????
Last reply by Michael Chafe, -
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I think my voltage regulator just went, because i can start the car fine, but it lacks power and sometimes backfires, but when i connect jumper cables from another car, it runs perfect, i wanted to know if the voltage regulator is internal on the 78, because i had my battery and alternator tested, and they are both fine....any thoughts?
Last reply by Datsun-Fever, -
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Previous owner has done away with links on 70 model, I am going to install "in line fuse holder", are there just 2 links? (ie starter and alternator?) What amp rating fuse should I use on each? Thanks, Mike :paranoid:
Last reply by MikeZcar, -
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inside the 280Z steering column, there is a plastic part with a spring metal feeler that touches the horn ring, behind the sterering wheel. It's part of the turnsignal-headlight switch assembly. You may know of this part. The problem is that mine has broken off, and the horn goes on when you don't expect it to. The question is, can you get a replacement for this part with the metal feeler, or can it be repaired? thx
Last reply by sblake01, -
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Hey guys, first piece that is finally going back the other way, the blower motor/heater core housing. I know they are small parts but must be done. Feels good to have something recontructed instead of deconstructed!! One question, there are 3 grommets that that go between the blower motor mounting plate and the fan housing. I haven't seen any replacements. I could use these but they aren't in great shape. Any ideas. Thanks in advance!
Last reply by ncz, -
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i have a 73 240z with an L28. would it be better to run FI if so what would i need for the conversion. thanks
Last reply by sphy1005, -
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My fuse box melts, some times smokes when any lights are on (including the fact that all the lights are dim and driving at night is hard to see). Ignition and charging problems come and go. After replacing relays doing reshearch and tryng to understand the maze of wires and diagrams that dont make sence. (I guess that is why I'm a plumber and an electrition is an electriton.) However I do have 4 years race mechanic/restoration experince including wiring a race car (noting vitage race cars dont requier very many wires). I did find a hot rod harnes kit at Centech for a good price. I'm looking for any advice or any one that has done this whether it was race car or not. By th…
Last reply by 71ZZZZZ, -
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My '73's electrical system is doing some unusual things that make me wonder what it's going to be like after I upgrade/replace things like the alternator (105 amp), headlight wiring (better), new MSA fusebox etc. When driving down the road with nothing on I periodically hear clicking in the passenger footwell making me wonder what's trying to operate. The wipers move, but only a little bit then seem to run out of "steam". The headlights will come on only when the switch is cycled 2-3 times. Is the clicking a result of the dealer installed A/C trying to cycle? (I thought I had it switched off) Any recommendations would be appreciated, I'd like to get things more reliab…
Last reply by gogriz91, -
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ive been under my dash playing with my air condition for the last few days and now my blinkers wont work? anyone have any ideas? the emergency flashers wont work either.
Last reply by sblake01, -
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Hi all, Using the search function I came across several questions regarding Z Specialties 105 Amp Alternator. I just purchased one and thought I share my experience with it. Since I've owned my '72 240Z, she has always had "slow" turn signals. I've replaced the flasher unit, the switch on the steering column, cleaned connnectors, and probably a whole lot more over the several years I've owned her. Some of this actions made marginal differences but, the end results were not completely satisfying. Two months ago I had A/C installed in my 240Z using the kit from MSA. Works great btw here in the central valley of California. The resulting drain on the electrical system …
Last reply by boostedz, -
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Does anyone of our members know how to decode the date codes that are printed on the back of the guages? My series 1 has a estimated build date of Dec 70 and my guess is that the date code is 5th Dec 1970. Can anyone confirm this?
Last reply by 26th-Z, -
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This is a weird thing that happens intermittedly, and I'm wondering if someone can shed some light on this. Usually when the car is running, the volometer will settle in to a reading between 13 and 14, but now and then, it'll erratically jump down to around 12.5 or so in consistent intervals. This is especially noticeable at night when my headlights are turned on because they will dim each time the volts spike down. It only seems to happen when the car is idling which is leading me to suspect the alternator, but I'm curious if this could also be a connection thing too. Your experience is appreciated. :nervous:
Last reply by DatsunZsRule,
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