Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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horn upgrade
by xray- 5 replies
- 2.4k views
Hey all! Hope the fall weather has been as good for you as it has been here in GA. On the spur of the moment I bought late-model dual tone horns I would like to add to the 240 I am working on. The current horns sound pretty weak (but do function), so I thought an upgrade would be sorta cool. Has anyone had experience with wiring problems while doing this? The stock horns have a single lead from the wiring harness, while the new horns I bought have two spade connectors. Can I just ground the horns individually to the frame, or would that short out the circuit? (Obviously, I am new to wiring...) I have tried searching the forums but came up empty. If this has been d…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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- 3 replies
- 2.1k views
Would it be useful to run a grounding strap from the rear underside of the car to the front (attaching it to the unibody along the way)? Would this improve the ground performance over the entire body for such issues as dim lights or intermittent faults?
Last reply by gnosez, -
- 17 replies
- 2.9k views
Has anybody done any looking into the best Spark plug wires-I know Vicky played around with the manufacturer that advertized the old capacitor issue, but has anybody really found out what is important. I am looking at the old standby, NGK, and trying to narrow down what is really important in a sparkplug wire-any EEs in the house? Will
Last reply by 240Zdragon72, -
- 2 replies
- 1.6k views
Hey guys, I've installed a 105 amp alternator 1 wire GM model that does not fit up to our conventional z car bracket. I made one out of metal and welded it all up but it is allitle off and the alternator keeps getting loose and wont charge. I need to know if anyone has bought a special alternator bracket for the z car for a GM model alternator? Thanks guys!
Last reply by CrashNBurn, -
- 7 replies
- 1.4k views
My tail light and brake light fuses keep blowing. I have put in the proper 20A fuses but they get really hot and blow immediately. Any thoughts?
Last reply by seerex, -
- 5 replies
- 1.8k views
I've got a 77' 280Z. ˆjust noticed today that the volt meter is reading below 4 (the very bottom of the guage). i know it still is getting power, because the red charge LED lights up when i start the car. Is there an easy way to get this out to see what the problem is. the car starts and runs fine, so i know its the guage. are there some wires i can check? The hazard lights also no longer work.
Last reply by Hrududu, -
- 3 replies
- 1.9k views
Help please....I have installed 60 Amp alternator in 71 Z. Should I use 260Z voltage regulator? Thanks
Last reply by livenbad, -
- 3 replies
- 1.5k views
Hey everyone, Let me start by saying that for the past year I have had the funky headlight switch problem that many of you have encountered. I would have to turn it on and off a couple of times to get the headlights to come on. Recently the headlights finally went out. I was expecting this so I had printed off the PDF from here of how to take apart and clean the indicator switch. I followed the instructions to the tee, put it back together and still no lights. I took the switch back apart thinking it could be the little nubs with the springs inside. They were fine. I decided to hold the contacts together by hand. Same thing, the parking lights would work, but not the head…
Last reply by Disposition, -
- 2 replies
- 1.4k views
My goal is to make a few of the electrical devices on my car operate in a custom switch panel seperate from any stock devices. I would like to have a switch for the headlights, parking lights, dash lights, high/low beam toggle switch. I do not want to use the stock switches because they are faulty and i do not require fully orignial interior. read further if you are willing to help me. my question is: when i run power from the battery to my custom switch panel, how should i go about doing it safely. how do i know what kind of fuse to use with each switch. what size wires should i use for the project. Right now, all lights except headlights turn on when i step on the bra…
Last reply by hls30.com, -
- 0 replies
- 1k views
"The end of Daylight Savings Time means more driving after dark for motorists" "Danvers, Mass. - October 26, 2004" - "Many commuters who turn back their clocks on October 31 will need to turn on their headlights during dark evening commutes. The return of Standard time means shorter days and more drivers on the road after dark, when driving is most dangerous. According to the National Safety Council, traffic deaths occur three times more often at night than during the day. However, drivers can make night diving safer and improve their visibility by upgrading/replacing their headlights each fall. “Halogen headlights don’t just burn out; they dim over time,â€� said La…
Last reply by H4LIGHTS, -
- 0 replies
- 1.3k views
Howdy - still trying to track down what's faulty - the gauge or the sensor unit. Tried to measure resistance (ohms) across the two leads out of the oil pressure send unit and got nothing, not while the motor was running nor while it was off. Does anyone know offhand if there should be resistance and how much? Is there a site/post somewhere that I've missed that can tell me the various resistances, etc of the various parts of the electrical system? I've got three manuals that don't seem to go into detail on this (haynes, clymer & clifton (?)) I've a '78 280z 2+2 Any help would be great! Cheers!
Last reply by 28Zero, -
- 4 replies
- 1.5k views
As some of you know my 77 2+2 is a rough ride, and in getting everything to work to find out if it runs, i need some help. The fuseable links, what are they and where should they go. I already downloaded the wiring diagram for the car, its a huge help, but i dont have the covers for them and the previous owner has bridged them together, 2 separate bridges. Is this how they are supposed to be?
Last reply by sblake01,
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