Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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Trying to diagnose why my 1973 wipers are on all of the time and can't be shut off. Any ideas...? I am getting close to finishing the restoration and installed a battery. At first, they didn't work at all...now always on. I appreciate any help...Ryals
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I have a 1976 280Z that was converted to SU carbs by the previous owner. The mechanical fuel pump was crap, so I replaced it with a GMB part which didn't seem to work very well. I replaced that with another GMB pump which seems to work fine. I am aware that some have reported problems with them, so I also installed a NISMO electric pump. In reading on this site about how to wire this up I saw lots of advice about adding an inertia switch for safety. From the FSM and wiring diagram I also learned that the factory fuel pump in my car was controlled by the fuel injection relay, which had been deleted long ago from my car. This article describes one pretty clean way of wirin…
Last reply by pogden, -
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Hello folks, I have a 72 240 (build date 11/71). My turn signals work, but when I turn the flashers on the left front does not illuminate. If I turn the flashers on and the left turn signal all four flash as they should. Any ideas on where to look/ how to fix? Thanks in advance for any input. Cheers, Scot
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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After several attemps of rebuilding my starter motor i figure out it was better to purchase a new one. Which one would you recommend? I can source the one in the first picture locally. The other ones by internet. Please give me your feedback.
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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So while digging through my box of parts that the previous owner provided me, I ran across a brand new alternator, which ended up being a 280ZX internally regulated 60amp model. After upgrading to the Pertronix electronic ignition last year, I began to hear that the 240z's voltage regulator and 40amp alternator might not be powerful enough, so I investigated upgrading. All it cost me was the price of a diode ($2 @ Radioshack) as I had all of the other parts already. After removing the voltage regulator I found out why its recommended to go with an internally regulated alternator -- look at how the backing plate has melted! In order to eliminate the external voltag…
Last reply by joeybricks, -
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Hello, After searching this topic it has come up many times in the past. Some links are dead, and some have given me some information regarding the voltmeter, but none about rewiring. I have a highly modified 240z for which I’ve discovered the large 10gauge WR wire to be in beyond dangerous shape behind the dash (melted connectors, insulation cracking all over). I have an upgraded 140amp GM alternator and a full EFI system with individual ignition coils, electric fans etc running from the battery. I’ve never run into these fuse able links which are described anywhere... perhaps the root of my problem. I am looking to replace the WR wire completely, …
Last reply by HuD 91gt, -
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came across these headlight on ebay LED Headlights Halo does not say much about wiring up, just that its plug and play. been searching led headlights but not sure if im looking at old setups for older led headlight tech. things still might be the same. Any help on how to properly hook them up is appreciated.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Hello everyone! I desperately need help with the wiring of the wiper relais. I have chosen the path to completely rewire my car with an universal wiring harness - uuunfortunately I have ripped off all plugs from the old harness and recycled some plug housings already - so I am not able anymore to trace which wire colors went to which contact on the wiper relais. Until yesterday I was not even aware that the wiper motor & switch were connected to a relais in between - only after studying the "Windshield Wiper Motor Connecting Diagram" I came to the conclusion there´s more than the motor and the switch.... Unfortunately none of the wiring diagrams I have found, s…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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A friend pointed out a very nifty electrical accessory he found. It is a battery mounted multi-fuse box with various inputs and outputs.. Seems brilliant given the multiple fused outputs, both low and high current, and compact fit-on-top design. And the price! A hefty £37 British pounds. Shipping for two of them cost me an additional £14 pounds. Pretty cheap. Did not come with any fuses, but they common types. MIDI and MAXI Hang a couple of relays on the side of this thing, and you could have quite the nerve center for any well equipped resto mod Datsun https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/1100 This outfit has lots of other interes…
Last reply by zKars, -
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In trying to troubleshoot another electrical glitch, I noticed that one of my 2.0^2 mm fusible links had damaged insulation and the wire inside was corroded. Was this due to overheating? I had removed, cleaned, and coated the contacts last year. Should I consider replacing the fusible links with a pair of high amp fuses? If so, any suggestions on which model? There was a nice one on this forum a few years ago that would accept two fuses and had a volt and amp display for $30; but it's no longer available. Or should I just purchase a replacement link? Thanks Jeff
Last reply by Jeff Berk, -
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I have a set of headlight buckets on my series I 240Z, that does not have the spring or tab inside for adjustment like my series II 240Z. Are they different or do I have a set of buckets in my series I car from something else? Not sure there is any way to adjust the light on my series I car currently.
Last reply by zKars, -
- 1 follower
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- 774 views
Recently acquired a series I car where the glass lenses for the fuel and oil pressure gauges are so loose that they ratter and lay against the needles so the gauges don't read properly. I want to get them out of the IP to repair, hopefully without pulling the IP or coming in from the passenger side through the glove box and destroying my glove box liner. Is it possible?
Last reply by Randalla,
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