Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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Hello all.... A while back I converted my stock 240 external VR / alternator setup to the internal VR / alternator GM setup. Everything works like a charm... BUT, and there always is a But... Does anyone know how to modify the wiring so the alternator/VR setup will begin to produce output voltage without needing to bring the engine RPM's up to 2000 to excite the alternator output circuit?? Thanks -Phil359
Last reply by phil359, -
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Any tips, suggestions, photos, on installing the autometer ultra-lite tach and speedo? How difficult is this - mounting wise. Thanks for the tips:D
Last reply by Fentin_Fury, -
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I'm looking to replace the fusebox in my '73 with a new one and the Motorsport upgrade/replacement boxes look like a good deal. Does anyone have any experience with how well they do or don't work and ease of installation? Thanks
Last reply by SER240Z, -
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I finally gave up trying to fix my own car (reference: New alternator and new vorltage regulator and still won't charge thread). Now the dealer tells me they THINK it might be the ignition relay. They want over $250 to install a new one. I have looked at the wiring diagram in my Haynes book and the index and can't see that it has an ignition relay. A web search of Autozone also doesn't show one. I also checked two aftermarket catalogs and they don't show ingnition relays until 1980! Does my car have one (or should it have one)? TIA, Ken
Last reply by sblake01, -
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Can somebody explain theheadlight wattage ratings? I see stuff like 50/55 all the time, and I assume those are Watts, but which number means what? thx.
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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To start off, it is a '75 280z. It has electric ignition and Fuel injection. Recently, the car would start up great, and would go to 180 degrees, right where it should and the car just shuts off while driving or just sitting after about 5 or 10 minutes of running. I know that it is not a fuel problem, it just dies... No sputtering or anything like that. Then after the car cools down after about 5 or 6 hours, it will start up just like nothing ever happened and then dies 5 to 10 mins later just like before. And will not start back up. It turns over but will not start. I pulled the coil wire off the Distributor and it sparks. I pulled the wire off of the spark plugs…
Last reply by Xargon321, -
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My mother has a 1973 or '74 240z that seems to be having electrical problems. It started on Friday when she was driving it and the radio kept turning on and off, but everything else worked properly. Then yesterday when she tried to start it she said the engine started to turn over and then stopped, and none of the electrical stuff worked. Today I tried to jump start it so I connected it to my car, and tried the headlights and some of the other electrical stuff and everything worked, so I tried to start it up, there was a click, and everything turned off. Now none of the electrical stuff works, but the battery in my car is fine. I checked the fuses in the console, as well …
Last reply by hls30.com, -
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Okay...have a few issues with my blower motor. My problem is that the blower does not turn on when the blower switch is clicked in any direction. The off button works very well. Now...when I tap the blower to a battery, it turns on, and I just replaced the resistance, so those two are ruled out. Now HERE's an idea...I think it's connected wrong. Here's what catches my attention... 1. The big white connectors are a bit silly. The one from the wiring harness has 6 wires going into it, and the one from the blower resistor only has four. What gives? (Am I plugging the wrong two connectors together?) 2. The blower resistance is wired to the top of the blower moto…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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Hell, I found my 240Z's rear deck harness is something funny. For the gas tank wires,which hole does it go into? I think my 240Z is probably wrong.The harness should take another hole next to the previous one. Please let me know which hole your Z takes? kats
Last reply by kats, -
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I believe my the part of the combination switch that gives power to the dash lighting, parkers, tail lights etc is buggered! It was flashing on and off over bumps for some time, but after doing lots of rewiring today (other problems), they don't work at all. I'm pretty certain I didn't stuff something up while working on it today, will check that in the morning. Anyhow, my service manual says the combination switch isn't servicable at all. Just wondering if it is actually possible to pull the thing appart and fix it? Or am I just going to have to replace it? If replacement is the only option I think I'll just have to wire it into a seperate switch for now.
Last reply by gundee, -
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I know I've had a few discussions with different members about rewiring the Zcar. I just finished with a Painless wiring harness and it works great. My application is a ::cough:: bit out of the 'stock' application, but I think it would work great if you wanted to keep it stock. The idea for this car is that I can drive it to the track, but that's about it. If you are curious about rewiring or are going to do it, then I would definately go for a painless kit. They have very good tech support as well. Check out my gallery for some photos of the install. The little center consol that I fabricated is ignition switch/button, turn signals, lights and one switch that isn't bein…
Last reply by malder, -
Got a 73`Z. When I turn the ignition key from the lock position the engine turns over and starts. I then turn it back to the lock position. To turn it off I turn quickly to off. The actual start position on the switch doe`s nothing! Bought another switch, same situation. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Last reply by hls30.com,
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