Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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- 2 replies
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I found a thread that gave this information What I need to know is I have a stock L24 with an E31 head. I have blow-by on cyl 5, and my compression is as follows from cyl 1 to 6: 120, 120, 120, 120, 40, 120. My rear carb will not tune quite right, it runs rich all the time (probably needs rebuilt) but the front carb is in good tune. I just need a 'short term' solution here since I'll be replacing the engine this year (I hope). What plug would be best for my car? The plugs always seem to foul so I will end up replacing them on a regular basis after doing some driving then letting it sit for a while, or doing a lot of driving. So really expensive plugs, like $8/eac…
Last reply by jeffs73z, -
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Here is an instrument panel plate that I made with a friends laser engraving machine. It is the first one and we're trying it out to see how it holds up. For now I just used a simple graphic layout, basic colors, a little personal touch for fun and well check it out. It's not so much for the restoration type of person, but rather custom. Craig
Last reply by Chino 240Z, -
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I just got my car today. The dome light does not function. According to the owners manual it should be spring loaded on one side? If you push up on it, it just flops around. How do I go about fixing it?
Last reply by seerex, -
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I need to know the cause of this symptom. Electrical gurus, have at it! As you may already know, the dreaded 3rd fuse down on the right was blowing. I have isolated the short to the front side markers. However, I have reason to believe it is something other than the lamps themselves. Here's what I found tonight when I took my trusty voltmeter into the garage. The reading on the FR side marker fluctuates between 0 and 10 volts. By fluctuates, I mean jumps every half a second. The reading on the FL side marker fluctuates between 0 and -10 volts. Negative volts? This is where I get confused. Now, as previously stated, these lamps appear to be "hard-wired" into the…
Last reply by gema, -
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I have a 73 Z that had one of the headlights that would only light up dimly. The other is just fine. After checking the alternator and voltage regulator the check out ok. Recently it started blowing fuses when I turn on the headlights. I took the car to a auto electrical shop and they tell me that the fuse box for this car was inadequate from the factory and that they run "hot" and break down after 30 years. What I need to know is: 1 is there a aftermarket fusebox that can be used for this car? 2. Where can I find such a product to have installed? Any help would be great. Tom
Last reply by Da Flash, -
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The front 2 links keep burning out. what circuit do these conect.can i replace with standard flat fuses.i was told the black was 30 amps and the red 25 amps
Last reply by zebra9, -
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My '74 260z has a busted washer bottle pump. The assembly is proving very difficult to locate, so I'm probably going to go with a 240z bottle/pump. The only problem is the wiring connector is different. The 240z has two spade type connectors while the 260z has a socket style. A while back I remember seeing these little plastic snap together wire splicing blocks. It has two channels, one wire goes in one, the other in the second channel, you snap it closed and little spade blades cut through the casing and bridge the two wire. Does anyone else know what I'm talking about? I can't remember what they're called. I'd like to use two to put the old connector on the new pump. Th…
Last reply by Daniel, -
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I'm looking for a way to unplug my side marker lamps to test and see if they're shorting out... but all I see is two wires, and I know from the warnings of others to NEVER tamper with the wiring harness. I see no plugs, no connectors, no nothing. So how do I "unplug" these guys? I'm going through the process of unplugging each and every item on the circuit that is blowing my 3rd fuse. Anyone have a compilation of exactly what is connected to that circuit? Just so I can know what to unplug =(
Last reply by gema, -
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Hello--my first posting- I have a '78 280z that i am slowly trying to restore. I also own a '77 280z that has been nice to steal prts off of. First let me tell u that i no longer have original key/ignition. My problem started as just a fuel pump issue-i thought- no fuel getting thru lines. Replace electrical pump forward of tank. NO power to pump. I have a haynes manual-which has 0 diagrams for '78, what a buy, anyway i have been able to trace out f-pump lines. All my fuse have been replaced, the line from pump to fuse box is good, i am unsure as to which fuse is responsible for pump. When looking at panel i believe it is the top right fuse link. A green w/blu wire…
Last reply by wickedfronty, -
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Hi, Has any one got any pics of the headlamp mounting unit? I'm going to swap my lamp units for some halogen jobs, had a quick look under the wheel arch today and things are a bit rusty and perished. I was just wondering if I'd be able to get some generic 7" mounts and be able to fit them in place if the worst comes to the worst. Cheers, Rob
Last reply by Black Beaut, -
Fuse Gremlins! 1 2
by gema- 14 replies
- 2.1k views
What could be causing my dash/sidemarkers/etc. fuse to blow? '72 240z, Right side, 3rd down from the top. On closer inspection, the PO had a washer wedged in between the contact and the fuse, but I don't know why that would blow it. Any ideas? I'd really like to have all my lights working! Thanks in advance.
Last reply by civ104, -
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I am rewiring with the Painless Wiring 12 circuit 'pro-street' wiring kit (www.painlesswiring.com). In the painless kit, the way I am reading it, there isn't any voltage regulator. Is this correct? I am pretty shaky on electrical, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Last reply by TomoHawk,
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