Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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- 17 replies
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73 240Z: I just got the driving lights working for the first time. They are powered directly from the battery (separate in-line fuse) and activited by a relay. I noticed that when they are on, the ammeter shows a constant state of charging that returns to neutral as soon as I turn them off. This makes sense as the ammeter doesn't know the difference between current charging the battery and current flowing into the lights. So my question is two fold: - anyone run like this for a long period to have some experience that this won't bother the proper charging of the battery? - if I decide to rewire from the battery to some other point "before the ammeter", where should tha…
Last reply by Zedrally, -
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- 12 replies
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well i just put a Radio in my car and got it all together and looking good, now my turn signals dont work, hazards do, headlights high and low beam work, changed the flasher unit with another one and still no dice, it worked the night before when i put it in the garage.....
Last reply by Xargon321, -
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this problem seems to come and go but my battery isn't keeping a constant current running through the car, when I have the car off and the key off, the battery gauge shows no current, the car will start up and the gauge will work but nothing will work if the car isn't on, anyone seen something like this before? btw the battery and alternator have been replaced recently
Last reply by mushupork5, -
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Tonight I'm on the soap box.I wish to offer a few tips.1st,when you buy one of those kits that have the elec.connectors they come with the "tool" to do the job.It offers a screw cutting tool and a color code so you do it right(yeah).Those are crap!Notice they have no tooth to crimp as factory. Compare yours to what was.Any electric supply will sell a proper crimp tool.Its worth it.The other is just short of a plier smash.The problem of my new molex(those white multi-wire plugs)doesn't fit the new.We never want to cut a factory harness unless we know it is ABSOLUTELY the problem.I have made crossovers by using the single crimps that mate to the molex individual connectors.…
Last reply by Daniel, -
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If the right signal is not working but the left is would this be a fuse, a bulb, or a wire problem? It does not blink on the dash. I remember seeing something that may have been s tiny bit of smoke from the left side of the steering column several weeks ago when I had used the turn signals. Maybe a wire has melted. If this is the case are the signal switched the same from '70 on up at least to '73? I have a '70 car that this is not working in and a '73 parts car I can pull the signal switch from. On this note are the light/wiper combo switches the same also?
Last reply by Daniel, -
- 5 replies
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Hi all, I'm in the middle of replacing my 240z tach with a 280z one, I tried starting my car without the tacho plugged in at all, and the car wouldn't idle, although it would turn over.. I'm running a haltech ecu, so I thought the problem with needing the 'loop' through the 240z tach wouldn't be an issue? Otherwise its just a coincidence that something else has happened, or I did something whilst removing the tach.. Why didn't I try to start the car BEFORE removing the tach to check everything was ok:stupid: please help its drivin me mad!
Last reply by philUK, -
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Hey all I just swapped my l26 out for a warm l24, yesterday actually, and after taking detailed photos of the starter and alternator nothing bloody well works! i believe i have it all wired the right way i can't even get my stero to be 'off' (ie power by remote wire to keep and show time) lights dont work, indicators... Let alone the bloody starter! could someone please tell me lots of good stuff! [starter] [solenoid I have the positive lead from the battery on the outer terminal, on the inner all i have is the lead coming direct from the starter to the solenoid. and a little black wire from who knows where.. that i'm positive (no pun intended) came off the inner termin…
Last reply by Walkingpig, -
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Got a good one for everyone. When running the car just dies. I have power to everything but the engine. The starter will turn, but no fire in the engine. New distributor cap, and tested the wiring from the coil forward. Thoughts? Thanks. Tim.
Last reply by taggedd, -
I have a 73 340Z with a "new" fuse box. The previous owner had it replaced, but unfortunately one of the connections gets hot enough to burn a finger. I tried taking the box out and tapping the rivet/crimp with a 3/8" socket extension underneath and a drift on top, and it helped some, but it's still too hot for me to feel good about it. How have others dealt with this kind of problem? The box is othewise in great shape (it should be - it looks brand new and from the receipts, it looks like he paid ~$200 - ouch!) Thanks, Daniel
Last reply by Darrel, -
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- 1.2k views
Whats the color code on the radio wiring harness?
Last reply by Xargon321, -
- 9 replies
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OK heres how my new 240z is doing electrically none of the turn signals work, no clicking or anything the hazards work front and rear, except for the side markers front and rear the headlights only seem to work on high when the headlights are on, the brake lights dont come on like they're supposed to. Any help would be appreciated.
Last reply by zero, -
- 7 replies
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Ok well tonight I wanted to drive the car for the first time in a month probably. Last time I had a problem it was with the module on the distrubtor and caused all sorts of headaches.(electronic distributor). Today i cranked her over took a few more turns than normal and coughed to life revving pretty hard. Then she started spluttering and i was tapping the throttle and keeping her going I was pulling out the drive and it started to get a bit worse then i smelt a fuel like smell decided nup not going anywhere popped the hood and found fuel leaking where the hose connects to the fuel pump(mechanical). Fine that's a leaky hose most likely, that's not it look at the distr…
Last reply by Gav240z,
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