Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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- 7 replies
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when im driving around sometimes the car will just turn off, and it wont start back up. I took it to my mechanic and the connector on the computer for my 76 280z was loose and then the car started right back up. after 1 day of driving around the car has the "emergency brake" indicator light always on and the car continues to turn off at certain times, both in stop and go and on the freeway. But this time the car will start right back up again and i can continue driving until it shuts itself off. Anyone had this before? Thanks
Last reply by mushupork5, -
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Hello everyone! I would really appreciate advice on this ASAP! I have a '72 240z. About a week ago I noticed that my headlights were not as brite as they normally are, then today, the car just lost power while I was driving. Moments before total power loss, the radio would go on and off as I pressed the brake (brake lights going on). Any idea if this is a major problem or is it a generator / alternator issue?? Many thaks!!!
Last reply by Daniel, -
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Alot of the little intermit issues that drive you crazy can be fixed.Switches must be exercized.Why does the little brake switch work for so many years yet that under hood light needs a couple of flips before it functions correctly(until the next time).The better switches make contact at a slight angle as to scrub the contacts clean when used.Your parents always said "don't twist the knob off that!!"You should!!.300z's are bad about radio static when you move the volume control.With the car off.Spin the knob from min to max until you get bored.If it slides--slide it. if it clicks--click it.I work the over head light door switch by pushing it in and letting it pop out --n…
Last reply by tanny, -
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Alot of dash work has been posted lately.I wish to offer some food for thought. If you have ever taken the AMP/FUEL from a 240 thru the glovebox it is a pain and its the easy way!! The 280's had a pigtail(screwed to gauge to plugable wiring harness connector about 6 inches long).They learned the error of the hand through the gauge hole holding gauge/wrench from glove box(what the hell would a lefthander do?).I would suggest adding a pigtail to the AMP guage given the chance.You will pat yourself on the back at a later date.Years from now you will want to remove it and that wrench behind the dash will twist the gauge post or at a minimum crack your dash with your hand thru…
Last reply by Bambikiller240, -
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I just bought a '78 280z 2+2. The "charging" light stays on when it's running. Is this bad? I don't have an owner's manual. I couldn't see that the light was on, or didn't notice, in the daylight. When I got home to the garage is when I saw it. The previous owner said the alternator had gone bad and replaced it with another used one that he said was working. The battery was beyond saving so he put a brand new one in it. So I was able to get home okay but I don't want to wreck a new battery if this alternator is also bad. I don't know if it's related but it also has starting problems. Turn the key and dash lights and radio light up, but then turn it to start and nothing. I…
Last reply by pig4bill, -
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Hi guys, My old battery was boiling out acid. It's been replaced with a new one and the same thing is happening. My volt meter is also jumping and the lights brighten up when i rev the car. Im now looking at the VR. It doesn't look like the original type which was mechanical. It's the solid state type as shown on the attached pic. I can't see any fried wires or corrosion (unless it's right inside) so im assuming the vr is ok. But i would like to do a test but i don't have a clue where to start. Can you guys please give me some guideline on how to test these, there's a black, green, red, blue, white, and yellow wires. The Haynes manual is pretty much no help because they …
Last reply by Bizza, -
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take a look at the picture..... I need tips, info, articles, recommended manuals, diagrams...hell, voodoo if it'll work. you would judge correctly in thinking I'm new at this...well, at least in trying to refresh a car. I'm getting the engine to turn over only by an over-ride switch straight from the battery to the starter, so... anyway, you can't see it in the picture, but a couple wires are cut. also, mentally remove anything that runs an EFI and replace it with carburetor. thanks in advance, wes
Last reply by shyfty, -
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Well the last time I drove the Z (70 240Z) the speedo went spastic on me. When you tromp the gas, the needle bounces wildly up and down. Once you get to a cruising speed it settles down some and bounces in about a 10 MPH span. Any ideas on this one? TIA, Marty
Last reply by carguyinok, -
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“The amount of current flowing in a circuit made up of pure resistances is directly proportional to the electromotive forces impressed on the circuit and inversely proportional to the total resistance of the circuit.â€� So which one of you electrikiti minded people can simply explain ohms law to a simpleton (read: me)? What is the relationship of the resistance to the circuit? Reason I ask is my leads. I noticed last Tuesday night that they were arching and after having a chat to a mechanic today he told me to check them with a multimeter. Wanting to learn something instead of open my wallet for others I went to buy one and borrowed a newish set of leads off my friend …
Last reply by publisher, -
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Hi all, The good news is I finally purchased a new (to me) '72 240Z and have her at home. The bad news is I can't drive her at night because the 20AMP fuse to the tail-lights (third fuse from the bottom on the right hand side in the fuse box.) burns out after about 3 secs once I turn the head-light combo switch to the #1 or #2 position. I knew about this problem when I bought the car but figured it was just a bad switch. Nope. I've replaced it and that didn't help. I'm not an electrical expert so I'm hoping someone on this forum can point me in the right direction. Here's what I know. This fuse has a green-white (gw) wire running to it. It feeds the tail-lights, r…
Last reply by Daniel, -
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- 4k views
Has anyone had good luck replacing the clock from a 72 Z with a clock from a newer vehicle or an aftermarket source ?
Last reply by owenk, -
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Well i finally got a replacement amp meter and now i'm trying to figure out why the it is always getting power... as soon as i hook up the battery the meter goes all the way to the right... does anyone have an idea on what is wrong?
Last reply by Zedrally,
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