Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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Ok, hooked up the petronix and it worked. Nice. My question is.... If I buy the flame thrower coil do I have to still use the Ballist Resistor or do I or can I remove it? If I do remove it do I simply move the wires from the ballist resistor over to the coil? Thank you in advance for the help.
Last reply by Alfadog, -
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I know. It just happened. I didn't have any side, marker or tail lights, so I replaced the blown fuse. Turned on the switch and (poof) smoke and the smell of phenolic burning, switched off, but the damage was done, melted through on the inboard fuse post. I'm going to have to jury rig until I can locate a good fuse block and cover for a '70 240Z.
Last reply by Bambikiller240, -
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I was hoping someone could tell me the name of the type of connector that is used on the fuel level sending unit. They have been cut off on my 240z and the previous owner wrapped the wires on the unit. I suppose I have a second question, what size of connector do I go I get, can I simply measure the diameters of the post I am going to connect them to? Tanks.
Last reply by tanny, -
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I have a '72 240Z with a 280Z motor in it. It has a breaker-less distributor installed by a "professional" shop. The tach doesn't work properly. With the first one, the needle went flying all over the place, then quit. Went to a junk yard and got a replacement and this one only reads between 0 and around 500 when I'm revving to about 4500. I called the shop to confirm that they hooked it up correctly and they assured me that they were the professionals and knew what they were doing and I just happened to get two bad tachs. Is there a special way to wire a '72 tach when you are using a newer distributor ? How can I tell what year distributor it is ? I think it is a …
Last reply by mjyikes, -
I have a 76 280(currently doing the bodywork &paint) and the temp/oil & the fuel gauges do not work,however the volt gauge does work,I wondered if this was a common problem or if anyone could tell me a good place to start tracing the problem
Last reply by Daniel, -
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I went to install the petronix ignitor I bought while ago and I found rhat the wires don't make it to the coil. It appears that if I rotated the distributor 180 degrees the wires would reach fine. I have little knowledge of distibutors unfortunately and before I go and take it off and move it around I want find a few things out. can I take it out and rotate it 180 degrees or does it have to sit in there the way that it is. And if I can do this should I expect to have to adjust the timing or os there anything I should keep in mind when I do this? Thanx in advance this may save me a headache.
Last reply by bart, -
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Just an idea - is the input signal to the tach / rev counter simply a 12v square wave? The reason I'm asking is because at present my tach is not attached, which is quite annoying! The Haltech E6K engine management system provides a 5v square wave from its tacho output (as far as I am aware), so I'm thinking it may just be possible to boost this signal and use the standard tacho? I have a 1971 240z btw, HS30-00829 If not it looks like having to go the autometer route...
Last reply by philUK, -
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I'm having basically the same problem as in this thread. Since I've had the car (about 2 months and loving it) the tach has just gone to about 4K and stayed there whenever the car was on. Today I decided to try to figure out what was wrong with the tach and took it apart. I found that the wiring had been fooled with because there was 2 white wires from the little harness that were just looped back on eachother (they had been cut before) and then on the yellow wire someone soldered on some sort of variable resistor or limiter(it had a little dial and when it is turned, the tach goes higher or lower). All that to say - I'm not that interested in keeping the origional tach,…
Last reply by malder, -
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Is there a way to 'revitalize' a battery? Two batteries came in with these last two Z's I bought. Both had the dots punched out showing a sold date of early 2002. Both cars have been parked for 6 months. Both are high-quality brands (wet cell). When you plug them into the charger, the needle just goes instantly to 0 and just stays there, which usually indicates a shot battery. Is there a way to bring these back to life somehow? Both are very clean and full of fluid and don't have any swollen sides or anything (and the weather here never gets near freezing either). Any hope? steve77
Last reply by Daniel, -
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The latest junker I bought has this big black box for a coil. Mallory Voltmaster Mark II model 28675. I visited some sites which sell Mallory and found this particular model and it says 'for points ignition systems only'. If anyone's interested, here's the address for the PDF (so I couldn't copy and paste the info here): http://www.mrgasket.com/pdf/CoilsM.pdf It says not to use on (a particular) HEI, but I assume it means not to use on ANY EI? Why is this? Not dealing witht he older cars too much, I didn't realize there were two different typse of coils. What would happen if I used this coil on a EI motor? steve77
Last reply by Zvoiture, -
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There is a black ground wire coming out of the harness where the fusible link come out and attaches to the starter. This ground wire connects to the fender well across from the starter. My question is what is this ground wire grounding? Thanks in advance for the help
Last reply by Daniel, -
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I'm confused on how to hook my batter up. Maybe someone could give me some pointers. I have a photo attached.
Last reply by sawilliams,
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