Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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I just saw a link to this on Facebook: http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/180?fbclid=IwAR0HVhjrJgKGzxMYHPycwJpWO9Ap0gIyhjS4IIK0YQlwjk7P7wnjk2GxvN0 It could be helpful to someone who needs to repair electrical connections in his/her Z.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Hi Everyone, I jumped in my 240 the other day and as soon as I fired it up I saw smoke come from the dash. Now my tachometer bounces at low Rpms and spikes instantly as soon as I touch the accelerator. Any thoughts? Appreciate the help! Arturo Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by Jeff Berk, -
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After struggling with the double relay electric fuel safety wiring on my '74, I'm wiring power to my fuel pump around the relays and going with an inertia kill switch I purchased from RockAuto (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=43206&cc=1209181&jsn=4). From the directions, it seems that the switch triggering mechanism is sensitive to where it's mounted. Put it in the wrong place and it will trigger if you slam the door or go over a rough road. If you've installed an inertia switch, where have you placed it?
Last reply by kully 560, -
- 3 followers
- 7 replies
- 907 views
I have a 74 260 and a few times the Tach, temp, fuel and oil pressure gauge have stopped working and then just started working again - the Amp gauge however did not stop, it continued to work while the other gauges took a nap. Anyone have any idea what may be causing this. I do have the crane ignition which plays a bit of havoc with my Tach (it makes it erratic). Any thoughts why this is happening
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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I've been at this for some time so I need some idea what to try next. Background: This is a '74 260z that formerly had an A/C. The original controls are still there but the vacuum tubes are disconnected. The fan was not working. 1) I removed the fan and when I applied power to the blower motor connector, it ran at full speed. 2) I checked the blower control switch using a continuity meter and each position seems to work. 3) The power relay puts out 12 volt with the ignition in the on-position. 4) I verified the proper electrical connections using the color codes on the attached figure and there are a lot of them. 5) I traced (using a con…
Last reply by crshowers, -
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1971 240Z - So before anyone gets on me, i searched, searched and searched again. In a nutshell, my brake lights are not working nor are the hazards (tell me you havent heard this one before haha). Everything else seems to be working fine. Turn signals are good, dome, dash, headlights, horn are all working as should. ( i dont have the front signals hooked up yet) The first thing i checked were my fuses with a test light, they all lit up and fine(all the connectors were sanded down and cleaned prior). I'm getting power to the fuse box from the battery. After that i tested to see if i was getting power to the brake switch and there is no power to it. I then test…
Last reply by Electrolabs, -
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So I got a little usb doodad that sticks into the lighter with 2 USB ports and shows voltage when my keys out out and car is not running it still is working as shown below. It even charges my phone with the car not running. Is that expected? Should I just unplug this when I turn the car off? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Hello, First I need some help figuring out where the map light is hooked up too. It looks to me as if the map light red (+) wire goes to the heater blower motor harness which has a red wire as well. Now there's a black (-) wire from the map light that I don't know where it connects too. Can anyone confirm where the black (-) wires goes? I see that the blower motor harness has a black wire with a ground hook but the wire from the map light has a male connector. Thanks, Dan
Last reply by Blitzed, -
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I'm in the process of making wire harness changes that include upgrades and additions that will increase the total current requirement from the alternator/battery. Ultimately, besides wire gauge changes, the alternator will need to be upgraded. For this calculation, I started with the belief that winter and summer might be very different. Turns out, maybe not so much. Loads are computed at minimum charging voltage: 13.5 (arguably). Lighting current is based on using incandescent bulbs which also will see "persistent" and "transient" use. The persistent load comes out to about 17A, while transients total around 16A. I took a WAG and chose 25A…
Last reply by ETI4K, -
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I want to change my positive cable out and move to maybe an in-line fuse instead of the fusible links to the fuel injectors .. anyone know what fuse size would be good? I am referring to these specifically Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 6 followers
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So I'm looking for a new battery, after a battery failure. Was taking R hand corners aggressively then the rubber aftermarket battery hold-down failed, sending the group 24 battery sliding L until the positive terminal welded itself to the polished valve cover. Instant electrical death, main fuse popped, no smoke or fire. AAA towed it home but I had to walk as you can't ride in the truck anymore. Bought a stock battery kit, with the tray and the factory hold-down bracket. Dead battery current production replacement is now 9", or I'd just get another one. Shopping for battery and only finding group 24 batteries that are 9"/228mm in height. The tallest batte…
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
- 3 followers
- 5 replies
- 859 views
I am looking for new turn signals for my '71 240z that arent 280 dollars on JDM or Motorsport. Can anyone help me out?
Last reply by yippi427,
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