Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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1975 280Z - could use some advice on how the control unit (fuel injection brain) hooks up...??? There are two white wires with female butt connectors coming out of it that are not connected to anything. It will start and idle, but accelerating makes it run like it's getting lots of air, but no fuel. Four of the injectors seem to be working, but two don't. Any suggestions would be welcome!
Last reply by St.stephen, -
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Within hours of getting my 1970 240Z the original radio decided to retire from operatrion. Thanks to information gathered from this site, I was able to remove it (darn heater/ventillation control cables). I manged to finally convince a local electronics repairman that I did not want a new radio but wanted my original one repaired. That should have been a sign to me that he was not really interested in the job. To cut a long story short, I have been driving around with this gaping hole in the dash where the radio used to reside for 2 months now. Well, the other day I managed to get another orignal replacement radio, just as my one put in for repair came back fixed. I…
Last reply by Dazza, -
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I'm trying to locate the individual male and female pins found in the connectors throughout the electrical harnesses in my 78 280. I believe the manufacturer may be Molex. I know there are insertion/removal tools and various sizes of these pins. Has anyone found a source for these items? Perhaps a listing of the different sizes and locations? The connectors I'm concerned with are under the dash and a few of these pins have corroded and broken but the plastic connector housing and wiring is in fine shape. It would be so easy to remove the bad pins, cut and recrimp new ones on have a new connector. Any help would be appreciated, I'll keep researching and if I learn a…
Last reply by Jimbeaux, -
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Thanks to everyone that responded to my last query about my relay ! This was my first post ever...anywhere. What a cool tool and helpful folks ! Had the relay out in the sun the other day and caught the light juuust right and realized there was a number on it ! Called my buddy at the Nissan Dealer in Texas City with the number and he said it was a good number and definately a relay although his sources didn't specify which one it was. He said (I think) that the last 4 digits specify fuel related; so that goes along with my suspicion of a fuel pump relay. I would tell y'all the colors of the wiring, but some dummy before me painted the engine compartment (including th…
Last reply by Texaz, -
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http://www.painlesswiring.com/ At this point in the game with my 73 240Z alot has changed. With the change in plans (88 corvette tpi 350 w/brain) I have been looking at doing A full rewire with newer style fuse block from painless. As anyone who has or had A early Z can tell you there elec. systems can be A nightmare. I am just looking to get away from elec. problems later. At this point I have my Z 's interior all out other then the dash now and am thinking this would be the time for this. Now I have done A painless kit before but that was on my 74 corvette and with that car the name of the kit (painless) fit. It took time but no big deal. If anyone else has ta…
Last reply by wilby34, -
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I need some help with my rear defogger: The switch works, and power flows through the lines in the glass, but the rear window stays foggy in the morning. I have an old voltmeter and determined that around 5 V flows through the lines both from the glass to the ground (drivers side) and from the hot-wire (red-black wire on passenger side) to the ground. My Haynes shows that there is a 20A fuse between the glass and defrost switch, but since everything gets power that fuse must be intact. Will the glass physically heat up to the touch if it is working properly? Maybe I don't have enough power flowing through… If that is the case then maybe the lines are corroded somew…
Last reply by Zvoiture, -
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I've been told that the '73 Z had some stuff that was exclusive to that year. In the engine compartment; firewall; passenger side, there is a small electrical relay(?) box (about 2 1/2" X1" X 1 1/2" deep). It has a box plug that plugs into the wiring harness. Mine has fried and now the car won't start..guessing... relay to the fuel pump? Have looked high and low in junk yards (found a '72 & a '74 with no such thing) and at the Nissan Dealers (nothing showing on the fiche system). Help!
Last reply by 240 4U2NV, -
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Does a coil from Nissan have a Nissan Part # printed on it? I want to get a stock coil to swap for my MSD coil so I don't get dinged points in a show. Courtesy Nissan has them for $50. I have been talking to this guy Doctor Z, who sells a lot of parts on Zcar.com. He said he has a used one that looks brand new for $25, but it does not say Nissan or have any recognizable part numbers. He said it says Hitachi on it and had the marking ECH IN IC-12 printed on it. It is painted black also. Anybody got a stock Nissan coil they could take a look at quickly? TIA, Marty
Last reply by Marty Rogan, -
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Does this exist! I want a full electronic style (as opposed to electrician style, which is more of a wiring diagram) circuit diagram for the Z. I don't care too much about color codes, just how the car is actually wired. Thanks guys. -David
Last reply by thinkmonkey, -
OK it looks like I'm just talking to myself here, but for other's future reference: The resistance at the coil was within spec the last 2 times this problem has occured. When I tested the wire going from the negative coil terminal to the distributor however, there was a ton of resistance. Once the car cools down, it's gone. I'm attributing it to the PO's splicing of the wire, or to the wire occasionally moving and getting close to the exhaust manifold and/or coolant inlet thereby getting the wire really hot.
Last reply by BadDog, -
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My ignition is cutting out, sometimes hot, sometimes cold. Sometime it'll run for 2 minutes, sometimes 45 minutes. After about 10 minutes, the car will start again. I thought I had it figured out last week when I noticed a semi-loose connection for the coil, the + wire. That wasn't all it was, but I've deduced that when it happens, the circuit fo rthe coil is open somehow. How do I know? Well, during that 10-minute or so wait, I can disconnect the positive lead to the coil and reconnect it and nothing will happen. When the car is ready to start, I'll see a little spark when I do the same thing. Chilton's says the way to check the coil is to check the primary and secondary…
Last reply by BadDog, -
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Does anyone have any experience with switching out the sealed beams on a 240? I am also thinking of placing driving light behind the grill. Has anyone had any experience doing this? Thanks
Last reply by owenk,
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